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  #1  
Old 09-02-2010, 09:43 PM
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rich1500 rich1500 is offline
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Default My new truck won't start again!

I got my loaded up laramie with remote start(which I use all the time to start the truck) on 8/7 and on 8/8 it didn't start in the morning(after an hour of trying) with the dash saying system fault and putting in the key doesn't start in. It did start the next day though. On 8/10 it did the same thing and had it towed to the dealership. They replaced the win module which took 4 days and when I got it back drove it 10 min from the dealership to pep boys and when I came out same problem! Got it towed again and the dealership had it for 2 weeks and replaced the tpmi module and tested it and assured me they had fixed the problem. The truck had 200 miles on it.
Well today after coming out of the gym same problem. The dash says system fault and the key does not do anything. As I'm sitting there cursing at my new truck with 420 miles it started up after 10 min. Tried to replicate the problem but couldn't, so took it to the dealership and they found the following codes U0431,U0010,U0184,P0839,U1192,U1191. I ended up calling a chrysler rep to expalin my problem and she wants a specialist to look at it which will be on tues 9/7 at the dealership. Anybody ever have this problem? Can someone tell me what those codes mean?
I just spent 5k on upgrades with new rims on the way. The only electrical thing that I put in was a Lockpick and a dealership installed Flo-TV(that was after they put in the tpmi). Would that void my warranty? I think I might just take it out before giving it to them on 9/7 to play it safe. If this doesn't work I'm going to go after the lemon law, and get a new truck. I am very frustrated and afraid to drive the truck as I might get stranded again and have to wait again for another tow truck. Any insights or opinions welcome!
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  #2  
Old 09-02-2010, 09:46 PM
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Sure am sorry to hear about this, I can't imagine your frustration and while I don't have any advice for you, surely someone here will, but good luck and be sure to keep us posted!

- Cajun
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2010, 09:52 PM
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U0010 is a CanBus circuit fault.

U0184 Lost communication with radio.

Couldn't find U0431

U1192 & U1191 Are "Missing/Implausible ECU Data"

Couldn't find P0839 but that series usually is reserved for transmission sensor faults, i.e., from the transmission control module.

Looks to me like you have a bad ECU.
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  #4  
Old 09-02-2010, 10:51 PM
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basically somehow ur battery is so low when u try to crank it your truck thinks your trying to steal it and stops itself, chrysler has had this problem in the past but this is the first i've heard with a new truck
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  #5  
Old 09-03-2010, 02:48 AM
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My remote start turned off the truck one day (while it was running before I put the key in) and I didn't know why. The next day i tried several times to start it and it wouldn't start. Turned out the gas was too low (almost to E) and the Ram wouldn't run with remote start with that little gas in it. I filled the tank and the problem was solved.
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  #6  
Old 09-19-2010, 08:41 PM
hewlett69 hewlett69 is offline
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hey i have 2010 1500 and its only got 1200 km i have had 2 get a bost 2 times now wood not start but both times was after washing it i am taking it in tomorrow will let you no what they say
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:42 PM
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My only problem so far (besides the crappy paint job) has been the power windows and door locks quit working. Took them 4 days to get it fixed. Works fine now.

I'd say the PCM is bad or a wiring harness connector is loose. Check underneath the TPIM to see if all those connections are tight, check the PCM (unplug and replug). Worth a shot. Disconnect the negative prior to!!
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  #8  
Old 09-20-2010, 03:40 AM
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I had a similar problem with my 09'. I drove it home from the dealership, went inside my house to drop some stuff off. I came back out and it started and ran like sh*%. Engine light came on and it wouldn't start anymore. I had to have it towed two days later...dealership was closed on Sunday. After four days they determined it was the main computer. Ordered one and when they installed it, it didn't work. Somehow it was broken during shipping...Ordered another one and got it put in 4 weeks later! Fixed the problem. Might be your main computer.
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  #9  
Old 09-20-2010, 11:18 PM
RainmanX RainmanX is offline
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Intermittent problems are the most difficult. 20 years ago I worked for a Saab dealer. We had a customer with a 88 9000 with 75k miles or so. Every so often the car wouldn't start, and the customer was furrious.

I was a very new guy, but the most computer savvy. I drove the car home for a few days, and took it on a few errands. One evening I was showing my dad what 35 grand buys (which was a lot for a vehicle then), and I showed him the power sun roof. All of a sudden the idle jumps up, and I knew that the idle air control system was new. I figured it was being commanded higher.

So I turned it off, and then tried to restart..No luck..While I had my father crank the car over, I checked for spark and for fuel. I discovered quite a bit of fuel was being delivered, basically flooding the vehicle out.

I was able to get it cleared out, and get it running. I knew that for some reason the computer was commanding the engine to run rich, and a high idle..That's a program for a cold running engine.

Back at the dealer I pulled out the scanner (which nobody used), and discovered that the engine coolant temperature sensor was sending mixed signals. I showed the shop foreman, and then we went to replace the sensor. The connector for the sensor was badly corroded. Replacing the sensor and connector and the customer was happy.

On another vehicle, a 900, the car came in with a complaint of scraping noise under the hood. A quick look showed the a/c clutch was partially engaged...So I unplugged the connector that activates the clutch.

Electricity can be a funny energy source. So with the power unplugged to the a/c clutch, it was still engaging! I started looking around and discovered that a ground lug hadn't been reinstalled during the engine installation. What happend is several wires were crimped together on this particular ground lug, and because it wasn't connected,it was actually being grounded through the a/c compressor clutch, which due to electrical current, caused the clutch to partially engage.

Here is another fine saab story. A customer keeps coming back over a few years with problems with the windshield wipers and performance (turbo) complaints. So usually what happens is someone looks at the wipers, finds a blown fuse, and then test drives..Wipers work and performance seems normal.

So me and a buddy get this car, with no previous knowledge of the past. We start looking for the reason for the wiper fuse intermittently blowing and remove the fuse box. I tell him, the blue wire on the 4th row 3rd column.. He starts arguing that I am wrong, it's a white wire on the 4th row 3rd column..

Well I am looking from the fuse panel, and he is looking at the wiring bulkhead. Remember that turbo complaint? The turbo waste gate sensor wire was switched with the windshield wire (basically one side of the connectors was wired incorrectly).

I got my head on right and went to a independent shop while I went to school at night for computer programming...

And one of my favorite..A Lincoln town car came in from a body shop with a note that it's running bad and they think it's a fuel pump. It also needs a catalytic converter because it's glowing red.

Now..cat's don't glow red when they are bad. They breakdown exhaust and will overheat if the engine is running too rich..So does a bad fuel pump cause a rich condition? That doesn't make sense.

So I started working with the ford EEC-IV system, which is quite primitive. It goes through some self test, and then gives a pass/fail. One of the tests is a shake test..So I start shaking wires and it starts having an error..Well here is what happened..Someone had the intake manifold off and pinched the coolant sensor wiring between the intake and the cylinder head. That caused the computer to believe it was freezing cold, and to start enrichment, which caused the rough running and the catalytic converter to turn red.

With the short time I was in the auto-repair field and what I seen, I am still amazed that some people believe you can simply turn a fuel mixture screw, adjust some timing, and it should run just fine.
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  #10  
Old 09-21-2010, 12:10 AM
hewlett69 hewlett69 is offline
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so my truck did not start again today got it 2 dealer they found that it was the rear dvd even when truck was off it was still drawing full power need a new dvd and should be all good need 2 wait 4 day 2 get it tho hope they are right
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