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  #401  
Old 02-10-2011, 06:38 PM
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I want to take a second to address something that is asked about quite often, and try my best to explain it.

This is for folks with factory Infinity, Alpine, Boston Acoustics, Kicker, etc....

These upgraded factory systems are put together for a reason. To get the best sound possible, the most economical way. That being said, the factory systems satisfy the majority of the general public.

Each system is set up differently but the same at the same time, I will explain. The factory amps split and bandpass frequencies into each individual speaker location. What does that mean? Well, the human ear can hear frequencies from 20hz-20,000hz, 20hz being super low (bass), and 20khz being super high (ear piercing treble). A typical aftermarket speaker that you buy at an audio shop, Best Buy, etc is normally full range, meaning it can theoretically reproduce the 20-20,000hz spectrum.

Now that we know what full range means, lets talk about what these factory amps do. The amp splits (separate) and bandpasses ("x" low to "x" high) frequencies from an initial full range signal.

Let's use infinity for example. The Infinity amp will send say 70-400hz to the front speakers, giving you that midbass kick. 500-3000hz for the rears to give you some instrumental mid driver range. And then will send 3500hz-14000hz to your dash speakers for the real high frequencies, like tweeters do. I'm not saying these numbers are exact, but you should get the picture.

Now...You understand what the amp is sending, but wait a minute, didn't I say a normal FULL RANGE speaker plays 20hz-20khz?

I did....

So my question to you is this....Why would you want to spend your hard earned money on a speaker that can play full range, but only be allowed to play the frequencies the amp tells it to? Kind of a waste of money huh? Kinda like buying a sportscar that can do 175mph, but you never get over 55.

All is not lost though. There is solutions. And before you ask, no, there is no way to adjust the factory amps to send full range signals.

Solution 1 - Bypass the amp all together and add in your new headunit, amps and speakers.

Solution 2 - Get yourself a summing unit of some sort like a Cleansweep, RF 3sixty, JBL MS-8, etc, and then add your amp and speakers. What happens with these units is that it takes in all the wires fron the factory system and sums them all up to give you a full range output.

Solution 3 - Maybe some of you just want some more bass but are good with the rest of the system. Well for those, get an LOC, then add your new sub and amp. You can tie into the low range signal of your front factory speakers.

Solution 4 - Try to source individual home drivers that are made to play at the set frequencies.


There is quite a bit more to it than that, but that is the jist of it. This is why most of my recommendations will include bypassing all of the factory stuff all together.

Now, I know there will be some cases that such and such replaced this with this, and it sounds so good. This is the thing, the only difference is that the new speaker replicates the set frequencies better, that's it...
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  #402  
Old 02-10-2011, 07:48 PM
cvitech2 cvitech2 is offline
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Good explanation on that, brings me to my last three questions and then I will leave you two guys alone.

1. What power is the amp pushing on the 7 speaker infinity system (mega cab), to what speakers? (Doors, Front Doors, and Rear Doors)

2. I understand fully why the manufacture does this, but why does it sound so crappy, is it just rattles and such over time (97K miles), I mean at 50% volume the thing just doesn't sound that good. I think most stock vehicles made in 2010 or 11 sound better without premium sound.

3.I think I might go with some componets that are specifically for that frequency. You guys have any thoughts on brand or style?
  #403  
Old 02-10-2011, 07:51 PM
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We both like JL Audio, I also enjoy Rainbow, Diamond Audio, and should have some good reviews of Massive Audio coming up.
  #404  
Old 02-10-2011, 11:47 PM
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Default I couldn't take it any longer

I got busy and got the subs/amp installed. It should be noted I had the four-speaker factory system, not a premium system.

I tapped into the wires up front, in the A-Pillar area of each side, behind the trim, and ran them behind the dash. I then installed a PAC line out converter, and ran RCA's from there to the amp beneath the driver seat. (my tek screws weren't long enough so I am gonna have to mount the amp better later with a right-angle drill or take the driver seat out again. The converter was a 10-1 reduction unit to reduce the signal from the factory amp.

I ran the remote wire to the fuse box and put it on an ignition fuse. Works great!

I ran the power (8GA) and remote through a grommet in the clutch delete plate that I drilled with a step-bit. I used 8Ga because the run is so short I couldn't see running 4 or 6.

I bought a panel tool removal kit from Harbor Freight. Why didn't I do that sooner? I can't tell you how many times I've screwed up panels and connectors in the past with a screwdriver. If you are thinking of doing a sub-add or anything that consists of removing panels a kit is worth the $$.

I did not install the capacitor... I am curious as to why you would not suggest one. My interior lights dim when bass-notes hit and I would like to get rid of that. Is there another way around that issue?

All-in-all it took me about 4.5 hours working slow and methodically to be sure it was right the first time.

I shot a little bit of video but think I will re-shoot more later since it got dark on me.

I am surprised at how hard these 10's hit. After tuning the gain: it is no where near maxed. The bass is overwhelming if I turn the gain up around 1/2 or more.
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  #405  
Old 02-11-2011, 12:21 AM
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Cool explanation, thanks. It really simplifies the whole idea behind everything for a guy like me.

And Chithead that "OJ will kill you" sig is hilarious!
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  #406  
Old 02-11-2011, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikel View Post
I got busy and got the subs/amp installed. It should be noted I had the four-speaker factory system, not a premium system.

I tapped into the wires up front, in the A-Pillar area of each side, behind the trim, and ran them behind the dash. I then installed a PAC line out converter, and ran RCA's from there to the amp beneath the driver seat. (my tek screws weren't long enough so I am gonna have to mount the amp better later with a right-angle drill or take the driver seat out again. The converter was a 10-1 reduction unit to reduce the signal from the factory amp.

I ran the remote wire to the fuse box and put it on an ignition fuse. Works great!

I ran the power (8GA) and remote through a grommet in the clutch delete plate that I drilled with a step-bit. I used 8Ga because the run is so short I couldn't see running 4 or 6.

I bought a panel tool removal kit from Harbor Freight. Why didn't I do that sooner? I can't tell you how many times I've screwed up panels and connectors in the past with a screwdriver. If you are thinking of doing a sub-add or anything that consists of removing panels a kit is worth the $$.

I did not install the capacitor... I am curious as to why you would not suggest one. My interior lights dim when bass-notes hit and I would like to get rid of that. Is there another way around that issue?

All-in-all it took me about 4.5 hours working slow and methodically to be sure it was right the first time.

I shot a little bit of video but think I will re-shoot more later since it got dark on me.

I am surprised at how hard these 10's hit. After tuning the gain: it is no where near maxed. The bass is overwhelming if I turn the gain up around 1/2 or more.
That is awesome! Glad you got those in there.

The capacitor thing is an argument that has been going on for years in the car audio world. Basically, they put more of a strain than they are worth. To repair the dimming, here is the easiest solution...

Swap out your battery. Just a simple swap to an Optima (or Kinetik, or Shuriken, or even a Diehard Platinum) will stop the dimming. Easy as pie!
  #407  
Old 02-11-2011, 05:39 PM
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Jared do you don installs?I am curious , i live in breaux bridge . Today I went to Ricky smith , them fools quoted me 450 to install my pioneer dbl din!!!!!!My problem is time to do this stuff!!
  #408  
Old 02-11-2011, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 337ram View Post
Jared do you don installs?I am curious , i live in breaux bridge . Today I went to Ricky smith , them fools quoted me 450 to install my pioneer dbl din!!!!!!My problem is time to do this stuff!!
Yes I do in my spare time...

You are right up the road from me, but unfortunately I am in Tallahassee, FL working currently. I will hopefully back around home in April sometime if you need some assistance.

I can't for the life of me imagine what they could charge that much for?
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  #409  
Old 02-11-2011, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 337ram View Post
Jared do you don installs?I am curious , i live in breaux bridge . Today I went to Ricky smith , them fools quoted me 450 to install my pioneer dbl din!!!!!!My problem is time to do this stuff!!
If you want to take a drive down to New Orleans my friend will do it for like $40 and a burger.
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  #410  
Old 02-12-2011, 12:16 AM
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ok guys im getting my MTX subs and box monday you told me get a 600w amp what do you think of this on and its 50 bucks jvc ks-ax4302 hears the link the guys has a ton of amps and if you see a better one just let me no and ill get that THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!!
http://westslope.craigslist.org/ele/2192095945.html
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