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  #651  
Old 09-10-2011, 09:19 PM
MADDOG MADDOG is offline
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One other suggestion....get a new 4 ohm output main amp, use the stock one to provide a digital signal to the new one and that will open up your speaker choices significantly.

Just a thought...
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  #652  
Old 09-12-2011, 09:10 PM
bignick bignick is offline
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Alright,

So I have been reading quite a bit trying to find the clarification on my hunch.... Got to page 15 before my eyes gave up, hoping someone can give me their thoughts on my plan. Here's what i've got going on:

History:
Purchased a truck recently: '06 2500 Laramie w/Nav and rear entertainment

From what I understand the truck used to have a JL Cleansweep installed that was removed before the previous owner traded it in. Apparently, when they removed the JL unit, they replaced the door speakers with something aftermarket (sorry, i haven't removed the panels yet to see what they are).

I first noticed an issue when trying to adjust the fader/balance and noticed that shit wasn't right; Things were not proper F-R or L-R, and one speaker didn't even come on. Called the dealership and they referred me to the place who removed the previous system. They claim that there was an issue with the factory amp and that's why the issues were happening....

Plan:
Originally i wanted to go with another cleansweep, but have since changed my mind and decided to go with an aftermarket DDIN HU(this one) all together and run that to the doors, and run an amp for a sub. Basically I just want to eliminate the stock amp, run the main mids & highs off of the deck(for now), and power an amp. Here's what i am thinking i need:

1. This dash kit
2. This kit to jump the factory amplifier
3. This SWI-JACK kit if i want to keep steering wheel controls
4. Help me here: do i need the basic or non-basic wiring kit? -i understand that using the basic kit would result in me needing to find a switched power to tell the HU when to power on..
5. RCA, power cable, ground, and remote for amplifier that I plan to run


Please let me know if I am missing something, or if I am good on my thinking. Any input is much appreciated
  #653  
Old 09-12-2011, 09:25 PM
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kielrushton kielrushton is offline
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I bet this question has been asked 10000000000 times, and I HATE BEING THAT GUY.... BUT......

Can you make the in Dash DVD player play stuff with the truck in gear?

And

Can you play mpeg/wav files on the thing?


Sorry to be that guy...

Thanks!

-Kiel
  #654  
Old 09-12-2011, 09:31 PM
bignick bignick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kielrushton View Post
I bet this question has been asked 10000000000 times, and I HATE BEING THAT GUY.... BUT......

Can you make the in Dash DVD player play stuff with the truck in gear?

And

Can you play mpeg/wav files on the thing?


Sorry to be that guy...

Thanks!

-Kiel

It depends on the model of the player, but most you can just ground the "parking brake" cable.

This write-up will give more information.


as for the format of media that it will play, that also depends highly on the Player itself.
  #655  
Old 09-12-2011, 09:49 PM
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chithead chithead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignick View Post
It depends on the model of the player, but most you can just ground the "parking brake" cable.

This write-up will give more information.


as for the format of media that it will play, that also depends highly on the Player itself.
Close... if it's an aftermarket unit, indeed. But the factory double din head unit, a MyGig/AllGig unit will need to be purchased and installed in order to bypass the factory restrictions.
  #656  
Old 09-12-2011, 09:59 PM
MADDOG MADDOG is offline
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bignick,

The dash kit will work.

The Metra amp bypass kit will work (I think) but I've always used the PacAudio harnesses. You do need one to bypass the stock amp and to provide a digital signal to the aftermarket amp..

Yes on the SWI-JACK for your steering wheel controls.

You'll need the non-basic wiring kit for an aftermarket head unit.

I'd look at the amp bypass & aftermarket head unit interface harnesses at PacAudio vs. mixing and matching Metra and PacAudio.

There's some very good all in one amp power wiring kits at onlinecarstereo.com and they also have the RCA's needed. The power wiring kits have the remote wire and you have your choice of power/ground wire gauges.

The RCA's they have are good stuff too. I got two sets of their "StreetWires" RCA's.

Consider a line out converter or possibly one with internal summing in it as well, such as the AudioControl LC6 or LC6i.
  #657  
Old 09-13-2011, 12:46 PM
bignick bignick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADDOG View Post
bignick,

The dash kit will work.

The Metra amp bypass kit will work (I think) but I've always used the PacAudio harnesses. You do need one to bypass the stock amp and to provide a digital signal to the aftermarket amp..

Yes on the SWI-JACK for your steering wheel controls.

You'll need the non-basic wiring kit for an aftermarket head unit.

I'd look at the amp bypass & aftermarket head unit interface harnesses at PacAudio vs. mixing and matching Metra and PacAudio.

There's some very good all in one amp power wiring kits at onlinecarstereo.com and they also have the RCA's needed. The power wiring kits have the remote wire and you have your choice of power/ground wire gauges.

The RCA's they have are good stuff too. I got two sets of their "StreetWires" RCA's.

Consider a line out converter or possibly one with internal summing in it as well, such as the AudioControl LC6 or LC6i.
MADDOG,

Thanks for your feedback, I will certainly look at the Pac Audio products as a possibility. still a bit confused, thinking that i may have not clearly defined my goals. Basically, my current goal would be to run:

Aftermarket HU
Hop the stock amp, this way i wouldnt need to wire directly to each speaker
single amp to power a single sub
(Potentially) retain steering wheel controls

Future goals would consist of: amp/crossover combo to run door&dash speakers, bluetooth add-in for this HU, maybe run multiple subs.

With that said, A couple of questions for ya:

1. You said that I need something that would provide a digital signal for an aftermarket amp. Shouldn't the new HU do that for me with the RCA-out?

2. if running an aftermarket HU to drive the door speakers, why would i need a LOC?

3. is the non-basic harness absolutely necessary given the goals above?

I'm sorry if these questions are redundant, just trying to get some clarity as i have never dealt with a factory amplified system before and this is all new to me. I am used to just running a HU that powers the doors (either by HU itself or HU->amp->door speakers) and running a separate amp for subs if desired(HU->amp->sub).
  #658  
Old 09-13-2011, 05:19 PM
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where do u hook up a line converter? i know it should be after the factory amp. but where? i connected it to the DS rear speakers. is this ok? the converter has only 6 wires 4 speaker and 2 ground it says not to hook up the ground unless there is no sound coming from the subs. is this right? should i relocate this so i can hook up all the speaker wires? it does not sound like the subs are hitting hard enough.

Last edited by jleist; 09-13-2011 at 07:20 PM.
  #659  
Old 09-13-2011, 07:27 PM
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kielrushton kielrushton is offline
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To reply - a 2011 Sport
  #660  
Old 09-13-2011, 08:10 PM
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chithead chithead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleist View Post
where do u hook up a line converter? i know it should be after the factory amp. but where? i connected it to the DS rear speakers. is this ok? the converter has only 6 wires 4 speaker and 2 ground it says not to hook up the ground unless there is no sound coming from the subs. is this right? should i relocate this so i can hook up all the speaker wires? it does not sound like the subs are hitting hard enough.
That's because the rear speakers do not receive a full range signal from the factory pieces. The front door speakers have the lower frequencies sent to them. That would be the best place to tap into for a line out converter.
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