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  #21  
Old 11-08-2011, 02:48 AM
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I see that you didn't mention replacing the valley pan Plenum Gasket, or install the latest kit for it, i forget what it is called
If you were not burning oil, you didn't really need to
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  #22  
Old 02-20-2012, 08:00 PM
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Jaymiller, Did you ever discover what the problem was?
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  #23  
Old 04-11-2012, 10:56 PM
fielder87 fielder87 is offline
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he has the 4.7l.dont have plenum problem like 5.2 and 5.9l..and ya you fix the problem? AWESOME write up too. got to do my heads soon(sense they are going)
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  #24  
Old 04-12-2012, 02:19 AM
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I'm sure this will come in handy, we're about to do head gaskets on our 03 Ram 4.7, but i really hope we don't get a 600 dollar machine shop bill like someone posted in here.
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  #25  
Old 08-27-2012, 05:43 PM
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jaymiller, did you ever figure out what the problem was/is? Getting ready to put mine back together. Exact job you did (nice write-up).I was told that there are 2 head bolts I need to put sealer on, I believe #12 & 14 or maybe #11 & 13. any insight on this? Thanks again for the great write-up.
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  #26  
Old 08-31-2012, 01:23 AM
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Default did mine this summer...

The fel-pro head bolt set has the sealer already applied.. all four of the short bolts by the intake is what you need the sealer on..

goatman
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  #27  
Old 07-29-2013, 06:10 PM
HotDakota HotDakota is offline
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Default Another 4.7L head gasket adventure...

Greetings all, we just bought a 2002 Dakota Quad - the wife liked the looks, when we were checking it out we never really got it into a load situation, so didn't see the temperature creep until we were hauling down I-25 from Ft Collins back home to Golden Colorado and it overheated twice in the 66 miles we traveled.

Imagine my surprise when I googled "overheating 4.7 l Dakota"!! So, long story short, bought as-is, and here we are - I'm girding my loins so to speak to tear into this thing and replace the head gaskets and check the heads out, Jay Millers pictures and narrative are extremely helpful, and I was wondering what the "rest of the story" was after welding up the tensioner lug... Any new updates since getting the head welded, like additional very helpful photos and description of the reassembly?

Since I have the engine apart, I am going to swap out the entire timing chain, sprocket and tensioner/guide set - with 155K on the clock, it seems silly not to.

Any recommendations from those who have done this previously regarding which head gaskets and head bolts to use? I was thinking Fel-Pro gaskets and ARP head bolts, anyone have better parts to recommend?

We like this truck, it rides great, sounds pretty nice with a flowmaster 40 delta on it, of course just a little chagrined at having to drop a wad of $$$ on a new purchase, but buyer beware....

Thanks ahead of time for any and all help, recommendations, pictures, etc. - tonight the adventure starts.
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  #28  
Old 07-29-2013, 06:25 PM
HotDakota HotDakota is offline
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Default Ah. Well, it helps to look at pages 2 & 3...

Yep, newbie here, didin't see additional pages until just now, but thanks again to Jay for the great writeup - makes it look do-able for us mere mortals, but now after reading about the rough running issues after reassembly, it makes me start thinking about taking it to a shop and letting them deal with it all - can you say "Warranty"?

Thanks again, looking forward to hopefully hearing whether Jay got his issues sorted out...
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  #29  
Old 08-06-2013, 04:49 PM
Wildfire-Phoenix Wildfire-Phoenix is offline
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Hello I need some informational help, because I have a 2002 Dodge Durango 4.7 Liter V8 4WD SLT that has blown out head gasket.

What tools besides the already listed one above did I need to replace the blown out gasket? What number sockets (2/18ths, 4/32nds, 9/12ths) would I have to use (or get) to access the gasket? However I do need info soon, other wise the Durango will be junked.
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  #30  
Old 08-08-2013, 02:40 PM
HotDakota HotDakota is offline
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Hi Wildfire - you need a set of metric sockets and a few metric wrenches to get the job done, and I made the cam holder tool with 2 pieces of scrap metal ( 1.5 inch flat strap by about 24 inches long and one ~ 8 inch long piece of 1 inch L shape metal - both at Home Depot cheap - drilled holes at the bottom, bolted in 2 6mm x ~ 1 inch bolts with nuts, then attached the L anbd Strap together with a 5/16ths nut and bolt I had laying around - basically a homemade spanner,. I'll take a pic and post it so you can see what it looks like.

Used the spanner to hold the cam, broke both cam sprocket bolts loose easily.

You can get a pretty affordable set of tools at Advance Auto or Sears -all you need are metrics, there are no SAE bolts/nuts on these things... if it were me, I'd get a 1/4 inch drive and a 3/8ths drive set of sockets, bot short and deep to handle the various studs on the exhaust, intake and valve covers - a breaker bar helps too.

I found that a body sanding block (rubber, Oreillys or Advance, made by Bondo) and a piece of red scotchbrite along with some acetone cleaned the block up nicely.

To specifically answer your question, I have been using 8, 10, 12, 13, and 15 mm sockets and wrenches to pull this thing down - I'll check tonight to see if I used any larger ones and get back to you.

Good luck - it really goes pretty easily, just watch the details.

Steve
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