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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #1  
Old 10-19-2010, 09:07 PM
waldig waldig is offline
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Talking How to do a 4.7 Hemi style CAI inlet $40.00

A few dollars, an hour, and now I have a real CAI

Breath like HEMI for less than $40

I did not like the lack of cold air inlet for the K&N I purchased and installed. This led me to do the design of a better approach using a 3.5” inch polished aluminum tube. It was actually easy as the factory air box outlet is 3.5” and an inexpensive stainless plumbing coupling connects the tubing to the throttle body inlet.

OVERVIEW:
This is a design that connects the factory air box with its well-designed inlet that draws cold air from the front grill area. I have used a massive 3.5” pipe to connect this air box to the throttle body directly, removing the worthless intake resonator box in the process. The whole inlet takes about 1 hour to upgrade a 4.7 engine and for about 1/8th of a commercial CAI on the market. Follow along and review the photos for more detail.

I have taken a bunch of photos so that you may reproduce this inlet design with a minimum of effort. The photos are listed below and are on photobucket so you can see all of them at once, hope you enjoy it. The parts are readably available at Lowes or Home Depot and the 3.5” tubing is on EBAY for about $20. The tools needed are a hacksaw to cut the aluminum pipe, and a drill and hole saw for making one hole in the pipe.

To start, after the parts are collected, you need to remove the plastic intake resonator and use it as a guide for cutting the 3.5” elbow to the correct length. I shortened mine by 1.5” on one end and 3.25” shorter on the other, see the photo. This makes the elbow the “same length” as the resonator from inlet to outlet as shown.

The electrical connector needs a 7/8”hole to be drilled into the side of the elbow as shown. I have a step drill that is shown, making it sorta easy to drill. This is about 1.75” in from the end of the elbow that goes to the air box. The connector is bolted in with the nut on the outside of the tubing and securely tightened with a wrench. I added blue locktight to the threads for security and RTV sealent on the outside to make an airtight seal around the nut. I did my hole on the backside of the pipe so as to keep the pipe smoother looking. The leads are just long enough to reach, but if you place the hole on the front side, the wires will reach more easily.

The air temperature sensor needs to be added to the elbow and is installed into a ” electrical box connector. The connector has a short piece of 5/8” reinforced clear tubing pushed in it to shim the hole to hold the air sensor. This is the same approach that K&N uses with their air cleaner designs. The sensor is just snug enough to hold the sensor in the connector and allow its thermistor to protrude into the air stream for proper sensing of the air temperature. The air is intended to blow across the thermistor ( blue bead ) for the best response, so it is positioned to be mounted as shown in the photo. Air hits bead directly, and sides are not in the way of the airflow.

I selected a plumbing pipe adapter that is used to connect two 3” pipes together, for the adapter to the throttle body inlet. It has different sizes on each end, one fits on the 3.5” tubing and the smaller end fits over the throttle body. Because it is a pressure proof fitting, it will have great strength and form a solid seal on the throttle body. It is also all stainless construction and may be buffed to look even better, matching the polished aluminum tubing. I buffed mine just for the looks of it.

With the pipe connected to the throttle body, the other end is plugged into the factory air box outlet and tightened for a snug fit. The photos are helpful to follow the construction and installation
Operation, the sound is louder than the factory system and sounds nice, just a hint of things going on under the hood. But it will not blot out the radio or conversation. . I believe that Iam getting a bit better mileage according to the digital display and I know I will be less likely to have my foot thru the firewall all the time.

It is not as loud as the K&N, which was not connected to any cold air, ducts but opens up under the hood making it quiet loud, and you could actually feel it in the gas pedal.

. Hope you enjoy it. Woody
http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1287535739

Photo link for photobucket:


http://s1011.photobucket.com/albums/...0CAI%20design/
Hope this works.....

Last edited by waldig; 10-19-2010 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:15 PM
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Nice writeup, However, the link only brings up one pic without any navigation to other pics so you might want to fix that.
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Old 10-19-2010, 11:04 PM
Adub Adub is offline
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I made a similar piece out of PVC, but I like this better. I'll probably swap out for the polished tube. One thing I did not do was include the IAT in the new pipe. I extended the harness and placed the IAT near the grill to hopefully read lower temps
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Old 10-20-2010, 01:07 AM
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GPSHSLAX GPSHSLAX is offline
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I think this is a great idea. If I had mine to do over again I would probably do something more a-kin to this. I would get rid of the flex tube though too. Even though the polished tube looks great I worry a bit about the heat soak that type of pipe is prone too. I like that your IAT is basicly hidden. I'm also having a tough time with the picture navigation on you link though.
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Old 10-20-2010, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adub View Post
I made a similar piece out of PVC, but I like this better. I'll probably swap out for the polished tube. One thing I did not do was include the IAT in the new pipe. I extended the harness and placed the IAT near the grill to hopefully read lower temps

I've heard of people relocating the IAT out of the intake for lower temp and I don't know how I feel about that. Sure the cooler reading with result in running a richer mix but that may not translate to more power. There is an ideal fuelxygen ratio for efficient, complete combustion and getting an unrealistically low temp can defeat that. Too much fuel for the available O2 can result is slow combustion or uncombusted fuel. If you go to far it that direction, not only will you waste fuel, but you will also sap your performance.
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Old 10-20-2010, 07:24 AM
waldig waldig is offline
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I did some studies on other cars and the amount of heat 'rise' in an inlet is minimal while running. My Crossfire has over 6' of inlet piping with the CAI I designed and marketed thru another company, it gains 35 HP below 2500 rpm with the supercharged SRT-6.

THe latency time of the air in the inlet is really short especially at WOT, your looking at milliseconds typically( 10-25ms.). The larger pipe and its attendant surface area makes that gain a bit more. However; the polished finish aluminum reflects the infared heating well and this design unlike K&N draws from infront of the engine area (heat under the hood which can be beastly hot). All in all it has much less restriction, some bling if you like that, and colder intake air charge for the engine.
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