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  #1  
Old 12-02-2010, 02:20 AM
04BigRed 04BigRed is offline
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Default Brakes: Pads and Rotors

Yo,

I'm getting ready to make an attempt at swapping out my front pads and rotors... and suggestions or precautions I should take into consideration before doing so? Any advice will help!

Thank You!
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:39 AM
DannyB DannyB is offline
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Yes, make sure you dont go cheap on the pads. As for rotors use a vented/slotted rotor if possible, it will reduce the amount of heat generated by the pads and will stop the pulsating from coming back. And when you push the caliper piston back make sure you crack the bleeder on the caliper, dont push the fluid back up. I messes up the abs and its not a cheap fix. Last thing make sure you torque the wheel to 80 fpt. Other then that it is a pretty easy fix.
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:10 AM
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No need to crack the bleeders on the calipers to recompress the piston into the bore but you can if you want to. You won't harm the ABS. Just make sure you bleed the brakes afterward. The wheel nut torque DannyB listed is incorrect. Wheel nut torque for the 1500 is 135 ft lbs.
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:42 PM
DannyB DannyB is offline
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I know that it is 135 ft lbs but coming from past experience with my mechanic shop it is alot easier taking a wheel of on the side of the road thats only 80 then if it was 135 especially if there is one of those horrible wheel locks on. 80 is still legal by transportation law. And if you are going to bleed the brakes afterward why not just crack the bleeder and make it easier on yourself. Aparently the ABS has a valve in it and it isnt good for it to have that much pressure on it going in the opposite direction. Just somethings that i have come across in the years, dont have to listen and might not be what the book says but it works the best for me.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:10 PM
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If you knew that 135 ft lbs. is the correct torque, why did you give out advice you knew was wrong? 80 ft lbs might be legal but why would you want to buck the system and undertorque your wheels by 55 ft lbs? Would you undertorque your main bolts or head bolts by that much? I doubt it.

Yes, the ABS has numerous solenoids and valves but they are not prone to damage by recompressing the piston without opening the bleeders like some of the first generation TEVES systems on GM vehicles were. The problem with opening the bleeders is introducing air into the hydraulic system and this is why the brakes must be bled afterward. Recompressing the piston with the bleeder closed eliminates the need for bleeding.
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:27 PM
DannyB DannyB is offline
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I gave out advise on prior experience being stuck in a bush and having to walk out 14 kilometers to get service on my cell to call a tow truck cause i couldnt undo the wheel lock by hand. 04BigRed asked for advise so i gave him a number that has worked for me and many other people in the past. Dont need a heated discusion about it, its ultimatly his call wether or not he wants to do it that was. Was just trying to help out another dodge owner with past experience. I think main bolts or head bolts is alittle over the top dont you think? You couldnt really do much in the middle of a street of bush if somethinglike that were to blow but at least with your wheels you can have a little bit of room and with someone with past experience being stranded and passing the tip along to another person it could help them out and save them what i had to go through. There is always little tricks and everyone uses them and i was just passing one on. Sorry for the bad info BigRed, ill keep to myself from now on.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:35 PM
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No, I don't think referencing main and head bolts is over the top considering a wheel coming loose from undertightened could cause an accident. If you want to prevent them from suffering the problem you encountered, I'd recommend getting a 24" breaker bar to take the lugs loose.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:47 PM
RootBeer RootBeer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
No need to crack the bleeders on the calipers to recompress the piston into the bore but you can if you want to. You won't harm the ABS. Just make sure you bleed the brakes afterward. The wheel nut torque DannyB listed is incorrect. Wheel nut torque for the 1500 is 135 ft lbs.
Thinking old school here, before ABS.

When doing disc brakes, can't you remove the lid from the reservoir and compress the pistons on the calipers thus eliminating the need to bleed the brakes?
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:51 PM
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Since modern caps are vented, you don't even need to loosen them.
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Old 12-02-2010, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04BigRed View Post
Yo,

I'm getting ready to make an attempt at swapping out my front pads and rotors... and suggestions or precautions I should take into consideration before doing so? Any advice will help!

Thank You!
I did mine this past summer, I used the OEM rotors and upgraded the pads. I did have to heat up the passenger side rotor and a hammer to get it off but thats it.. Good luck

BTW the brake pad lube DOESN'T go on the face of the pad..(I learned the hard way when I was 14)
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