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  #11  
Old 12-09-2010, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraFlame View Post
Glad you got it fixed. Sorry but I started to laugh. If it dies when you go to the right then it may be an Indy or NASCAR model and is designed to go left all day.
^LMAO sorry had to laugh at that

but glad to see your one step closer to fixing it if I had any suggestions to the gauges goin crazy problem Id help
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  #12  
Old 12-09-2010, 10:27 PM
1skylark 1skylark is offline
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Im still having issues. Think I may have figured out which wire its got to be by looking at a wiring diagram. Im thinking the dark blue wire that runs from the ignition switch. It runs to the auto shut down relay, pcm, charging system, and ignition. Makes since to me.
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  #13  
Old 12-11-2010, 12:57 PM
1skylark 1skylark is offline
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So I disconnected the battery, ran the negative side of my test light to the (disconnected) positive battery cable and touched the positive probe to the positive post of the battery. It didn't light up. No grounded wire I guess.
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2010, 11:02 PM
1skylark 1skylark is offline
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Ok, so I was working on the truck today. It started right up and I couldn't get it to act up. Drove to the end of the street, died, and wouldnt start back up. Usually I can get it to start back up by messing with the main harness under the dash but no luck. Luckally I had my test light and started probing around. No power to the coil, or the dark blue wire that runs from the pcm to the ignition switch. Towed it home, probed around again, all power was back and it fired up. Ran for a few se seconds and died. Then the battery was to dead to crank it over again from all the failed attempts to start it down the street. Any ideas, oh great electrical gurus?
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2010, 11:06 PM
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Start by looking for corroded connections. If you don't find any, test conductivity between the wires and unpainted body metal to see if you've got a short.
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  #16  
Old 12-30-2010, 11:11 PM
1skylark 1skylark is offline
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No corroded connections. How do I test for cunductivity? I'm new to this electrical stuff, I know how to check resistance and check for power and that's it. Lol. I can build a engine, and set up a differential but this is new.
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2011, 06:39 PM
1skylark 1skylark is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
An open regulator circuit can't be caused by a grounded wire but it can be caused by a bad connection or broken wire. The code itself indicated either an open or short can be the problem. Code 55 means that there are no more codes to display. 12 means that the PCM has lost battery power within the last 50 key cycles. You should pull the steering column covers and sheck the connections at the ignition switch. I'll try to find a wiring diagram and see if I can narrow it down more.
ram tech, all connections at the ignition switch look good. any ideas?
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2011, 09:08 PM
1skylark 1skylark is offline
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I did a lot of reading, sounds like a lot of people had this same problem with a bad ballast resistor. I figured for $3 I couldn't go wrong giving it a shot. I don't see 1 on the fender or on the firewall. I was sold a Borg Warner part #RU12 from O'reilly Auto Parts, and i rechecked the # online and it said it was correct for my 92 Ram. Is their catalog incorrect, or am I just over looking it?
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  #19  
Old 01-03-2011, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1skylark View Post
No corroded connections. How do I test for cunductivity? I'm new to this electrical stuff, I know how to check resistance and check for power and that's it. Lol. I can build a engine, and set up a differential but this is new.
When I was a tech, the owner of one of the shops I worked at was a master when it came to finding electrical problems. His two favorites were either something is not grounded correctly or something that is not supposed be grounded, is. In either case, electrical problems are a royal PITA if you are working without the benefit of a computer to test each circuit. Here's how to find something that is grounded that should not be, ie a short.

Tools:

1. Powered volt ohm meter with pointed leads is a must have.
2. Complete wiring diagram is extremely helpful. It will show you which wires are supposed to be grounded and which are not.

Process:

1. Set the meter in Ohm position. Test it by touching the leads together, it should show power/continuity.

2. Disconnect the battery of the vehicle. You're not looking for power on anything at this point, so kill it all.

3. Disconnect one set of wires at the connector.
4. Insert one lead of your meter into a connector on the connector block.
5. Touch the other lead to an unpainted body surface and again to the engine block.

6. If the meter moves, you've found a wire that is grounded. This is where the wiring diagram comes in really handy.

7. If the meter does not move, keep testing all the other wires in the same manner until you are sure nothing is grounded that should not be. Then move on to the next connector, etc. Make sure you plug things back in before moving on to the next connector.

If there are no connectors your can get to, you can stick the point of the lead through the cover of the wire (this is why you need the pointed leads on the meter) but it should be avoided if you can.

Its time consuming and there are no short-cuts, at least not that I've ever been able to find. Knowing what harness goes where really helps though.
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  #20  
Old 01-03-2011, 10:07 PM
1skylark 1skylark is offline
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Thanks, looks like I'm going to be tracking down a wiring diagram and some new leads for my multimeter tomorrow. Thanks a million!
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