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Electrical 3rd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 12-14-2010, 05:15 PM
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Default Drivers door lock switch.........

Since I bought the truck I have not been able to lock/unlock the power door locks with the drivers switch. The passenger side works fine. I always thought it was the drivers switch assembly and when it bothered me enough I would replace it. Recently I started having trouble with my passenger side window switch. It would lower the window but would take quite a bit of playing with the switch to get it to go back up. When this would happen with the drivers switch the passenger switch would not work either. I let it get to the point that in the past week I wondered on several occasions whether or not I was going to get the window back up, so I went to the Dodge parts dept and bought a new assembly. $128 later all of my windows work from each respective switch as well as the drivers switch. The power locks did not however. I dont hear any motors running, any trying, nothing. This disappoints me as its a pain in the ass to keep leaning over to unlock the doors when someone wants to get in (picking someone up, waiting in car for someone) as the doors automatically lock upon starting vehicle.

I have checked fuses, opened the door and checked wires in the loom going from the door to the cab. No dice on any of it. The truck does have an Aviatla alarm installed, that was installed when I bought it. I downloaded and printed an installation manual for the alarm and traced all the wiring and it is all correct. Any ideas? Im at a loss and wanting to get this taken care of.
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  #2  
Old 12-23-2010, 05:17 PM
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UPDATE!
I uninstalled the Avital alarm. Geez what a nightmare of tracing spaghetti noodles. Anyhow, all wires are intact and eveeeerrrrrrryyyyyyyy one was traced. Still same scenario, all locks work with passenger side lock switch, drivers side is still dead. At the very least, is it possible to keep all locks from unlocking when door is opened after turning truck off? Thanks.
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:28 PM
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If the connection on the driver's door switch is the same as the passenger door switch (I doubt it is) try swapping them out and see what happens. If the problem goes away, then you know you need a new switch.
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:16 PM
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The switch itself you mean? The drivers door controls come as a whole panel with all the switchs. When I bought the truck I assumed the switch was bad and just didnt worry with it until the window switch went bad, then I bought a new panel. Apparently that wasnt it. My idea was to swap the switchs when I first bought the truck lol, took apart the drivers controls and that stopped me in my tracks. I get the feeling that it is something stupid but well hidden.
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:20 PM
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Ok. You've eliminated the driver's door switch. Now you need to eliminate the rest of the system. If this is a 2 door, unplug the passenger door switch. If its a QC or CC, unplug all except the driver's door and play with it one door at a time.

Chasing electrical problems is a PITA.
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Old 12-23-2010, 09:08 PM
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Yes electrical problems are lol. It is a quad cab, the only two power window switches are the front drivers and passengers. The back doors dont have a lock switch. If I unplug the passenger lock switch the drivers still dont work. If I unplug the drivers the passengers side one still works. I have a service manual but dont have a working printer ATM to print a copy to take to the truck with me so I have to keep running back and forth.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:37 PM
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I don't know if you've checked this or not yet, but I found this helpful in another post...Check inside the rubber boot between the door and the frame. A few people have had wires break from the pivoting of opening and closing the door I guess. I had my power lock and speaker dead in my passenger rear door and this was the solution. Good luck with it!
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Old 01-23-2011, 09:30 AM
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Start by getting a test light or logic probe and checking the wires at the door lock motor itself. With the test light hooked to a known good ground, one of the wires should light up the test light in the lock position and the other in the unlock position. If that's ok, hook up the test light to a 12V source and repeat the test. You should get the same results. If you get the test light to light up all 4 times, you likely have a bad instrument cluster. Why the instrument cluster you ask? Because the drivers for the door lock actuators are built into it.
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:12 AM
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Thanks guys. I have found the problem. The power lock wire, where it exits the boot to enter the truck came unplugged from the little plastic "grid". After playing with it some more it fell out in my hand. Got it reconnected and have enjoyed not leaning over the console since.
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Old 01-25-2011, 11:09 AM
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Glad to hear you got it sorted out I'd hate to go without the power locks myself.
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