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Electrical 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 12-15-2010, 09:34 PM
CKBREW CKBREW is offline
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Default Help with electrical gremlins please

Hi all. Does anyone know where I can get an accurate eletrical diagram for my truck? 2000 Ram 2500 4WD 5.9L slt crew cab. I have an open circuit somewhere in the I.O.D. circuit that is swiftly draining my battery. The battery will drain down to nothing in 2 days. Now that the cold has set in it is even worse. It is circuit #12 in the fuse block, 10A. I had this problem before and was shown how to test for it by the battery shop. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect a circuit tester between the battery post and the battery clamp. They said that if i get anything more than a faint flickering in the test bulb, that there is an open circuit. They showed me at the shop how the tester had a bright steady light. They said to start pulling fuses until the bright light went out. I did this and found circuit #12 I.O.D. to be the culprit. On a hunch, I disconnected the under hood service light and the problem went away. Now it has returned, and I am stumped as to where else to look. I have a Chilton's manual, but the wiring diagrams are just about useless. None of the circuits match the fuse block numbers. I have resorted to temporarily pulling the fuse to see if this solves the battery drain problem. I rely on this truck as my plow truck to get out of my driveway (500 ft long on a hill). I thought it may be a tired battery due to the electrical load from the plow, but the shop load tested the battery and all the cells, and the charging system, and all was OK. I need to start hunting down the bad circuit, but do not know where to start. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:24 AM
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If something in the IOD is draining your battery, then you don't have an open circuit problem. Using a test lamp to check for a draw is outdated for newer vehicles with modules that constantly pull a 12V power supply for memory purposes. The only correct way to check for an draw is by hooking up an ammeter in series on the positive side of the battery. The limit should be around .040 amperes. I assume you mean fuse 12 in the junction block and not the PDC, correct?

According to my diagrams, fuse 12 goes to the DLC, radio, interior lighting, and overhead console.



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Old 12-17-2010, 12:53 PM
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Thany you for the information and diagram. I did mean #12 in the junction box. I will check the amperage draw. If it is above 0.040 amps, what should I look for? Can you explain what the date link collector is? Do you mean the memory that holds fault codes? I know that the interior lights and radio go off when the truck is shut down. will check amp draw and the other circuits and report back. Thanks for the diagrams and information. Mark
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:41 PM
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When you check for a draw, you need to give the truck about 5 minutes or so for all the modules to go into sleep mode. If it's above the .040, start pulling fuses until the draw goes away and then start looking on that circuit. The data link is just the connector for the scan tool located under your dash. The memory I'm talking about is for codes, idle strategy, radio presets and things like that.
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Old 12-19-2010, 05:05 PM
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OK, I did some more investigating. I pulled the positive pattery clamp and hooked my multimeter in series with the clamp and the battery post. With the IOD fuse pulled, I get a steady 0.02 amp reading. With the IOD fuse in, when I hook up the meeter, I get 0.89 amps for a few seconds, then it drops to 0.02 amps. I also noticed that with the IOD fuse pulled, then when I replace it, I hear a whiring sound like a small electric motor. This apears to be coming from the radio. It sounds like a motor that would opperate to eject a tape or CD. I heard this same noise when I first hooked up the amp meeter and got 0.89 amps. The noise stoped at the same time the amps droped back to 0.02 amps. So far, keeping the IOD fuse pulled when the truck is parked has kept the battery from draining. I have checked all the items on the wiring diagram (lights etc) and they are going out when they should. I did notice that even though the radio does not work with the IOD fuse pulled, all the pre-set stations stay saved. When the fuse is inserted, the radio defaults to 12:00 for a time, and AM radio, but push the switch to FM, and hit a button, and the same stations are there. There is not a tape of CD in the radio. When the truck has been sitting, I get 12.51 volts on the battery. When I start the engine, the volts come up to 14.5. We are expecting snow and have hooked up the plow. I noticed that during test opperation of the plow, (up, down, left, right) the volts start droping rapidly. Down below 10 volts as measured by the dash volt meeter. From past experience, every time I have had a problem with this truck, it eventually came down to a bad ground. I have again cleaned both positive and negative battery terminals and clamps, then coated them with dielectric grease when finished, then checked and cleaned other connections. Now what? I am starting to think the problem is infact the battery itself. I do not have a load tester or cell tester, and I have been using the same battery shop for the last 15 years. They have a good reputation, and I myself have been there thinking I had a battery that needed replading, and they have told me that the battery was good, and there was a fault somewhere else. I have brought them batteries to test from the boat, that I had no clue if they were in good shape or not, and they have checked out. They could just as easily told me they needed to be replaced when they did not need to be. The last test was last spring. I guess I will take it back and have it re-tested. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
Mark
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