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  #1  
Old 12-30-2010, 03:54 AM
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so i got a set of 4 kenwood 6x9s for my ram to upgrade the sound a bit..

so what im wondering is if i am not happy with the sound without an amp, would it be easy to add a factory amp that comes with the alpine package? and where is the amp located?

OR

should i add a aftermarker kenwood amp and where is the best place to put it?

thanks!
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  #2  
Old 12-30-2010, 04:04 AM
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It would be easier to add an aftermarket amp.
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie View Post
so i got a set of 4 kenwood 6x9s for my ram to upgrade the sound a bit..

so what im wondering is if i am not happy with the sound without an amp, would it be easy to add a factory amp that comes with the alpine package? and where is the amp located?

OR

should i add a aftermarker kenwood amp and where is the best place to put it?

thanks!
Rich,

I'm an expert when it comes to the aftermarket audio equipment. I changed the entire system down to sound proofing the ram. Please feel free to PM me and I'll give ya my number and talk about what would be the best options for you...

MIKE
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:10 PM
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I'm guessing no.

I had the alpine system I believe it all runs from the radio via a high speed bus harness over to the amp that is under and to the left of the steering wheel. From the amp it goes out to the speakers. Wasn't like the typical radios that have rca's or even speaker out wires. Non-alpine factory heads might be different and have a different harness out the back. Also, depending on how many factory speakers there are - just replacing the door speakers might not get you a lot if the radio isn't sending a full range signal to that speaker.

Tinkered with this about a year ago and just ended up replacing the whole system from scratch. All depends on what you're trying to get and how much you want to spend.

I, and it sounds like Mike, can have you spending 4k or more fairly quickly. I'm thinking component speakers, some amps under the back seat (JL's fit nice), a pair of 10" subs and a nice nav unit to top it off.
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:33 PM
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If your going to do the audio system do it right from the beginning. I would look at component speakers for all the door, and new dash speakers also. You can install a Kappafive amp and run all the door speakers and duel 12" subs in a custom enclosure under the rear seats. I would also suggest changing out the head unit, the factory unit is a piece of crap. It involves some work but well well worth it. If you look at my pics there are a few in there of my truck. Took a full day to install everything and don't forget dynomat to sound proof around the speakers and speaker enclosures for the doors. My entire system ran around $2500.
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:54 PM
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Lots of good suggestions here. I'd start with your head unit. If you like how it works, keep it. But...

There isn't an amp available as a Mopar stock or accessory unit that is worth anything except the inflated prices they charge for them.

The speakers themselves, even with the Kicker, Boston Acoustics, Infinity or Alpine name on them; are really only cheap knockoffs made in China. CJD enters into licensing arrangements with these companys to brand their equipment. Sometimes you actually do get a component in a package from one of those companys in your MOPAR vehicle and it may be a re-badged head unit or amp. They tend to be the lower end units.

I agree, go with a good aftermarket amp, some component speakers with crossovers for your front sound stage, if you don't have rear speakers you don't have to go too crazy on quality there as they are for fill so get some decent ones, and add a subwoofer and sub amp to the mix.

You'll need a couple of harness adapters, some RCA's and a couple of amp connection kits as well.

You will be very happy.
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Old 01-01-2011, 05:46 PM
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I'm running a 7"in Pioneer DVD/NAVI in the dash.

Polk 6x9's on all four doors
This running on a Polk audio amp 100x4 @ 4ohm

in the dash
3.5 polk in the dash
Sat tweeters by sound stream in the doors
Running off the head unit

Running one 12in Audio Pipe sub, ported in about 1.3cu ft box.
Running an Audiotech A/B MONO 780w @ 2ohm.

There are a million ways to skin this cat, but I highly recommend what ever you do, Use Dynamat or something of the like. It makes a HUGE difference in overall sound.

Also, there are many alternatives to buying high priced name brands like Kenwood, polk, kicker ect... My 12in sub that can handle up to 1200w RMS @ 2 ohm was 90 bucks. Something similar in a JL would be about 500.


Here are some pics http://picasaweb.google.com/MPushkal...Kb3zeuOpbLDYA#
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:18 PM
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I spent alot on my set up I upgrade the radio next time I ll just replace it with one that you can do everything without a lock pick ! we replace the speekers and a new amp added sound so sweet ! My alarm guy who put it all in keep saying replace it all alot better off and I agree sounds great and and glad I did do it just not happy with the mygigs my dealer doent know beens on the my gig and wasted 160.00 while I figure out what was wrong nice ha ! oh dont go to a dealer another really big wast of cash I feel ! hope this helps out !
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:20 PM
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ummm, yeah, what you said.
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:05 PM
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Can you tell me which model polk 6x9's you're running in your doors? I'm looking to replace all 4 door speakers in my 2010 crew and want to go with polk's if possible. Did you have to make any modifications when mounting the 6x9's?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MRP View Post
I'm running a 7"in Pioneer DVD/NAVI in the dash.

Polk 6x9's on all four doors
This running on a Polk audio amp 100x4 @ 4ohm

in the dash
3.5 polk in the dash
Sat tweeters by sound stream in the doors
Running off the head unit

Running one 12in Audio Pipe sub, ported in about 1.3cu ft box.
Running an Audiotech A/B MONO 780w @ 2ohm.

There are a million ways to skin this cat, but I highly recommend what ever you do, Use Dynamat or something of the like. It makes a HUGE difference in overall sound.

Also, there are many alternatives to buying high priced name brands like Kenwood, polk, kicker ect... My 12in sub that can handle up to 1200w RMS @ 2 ohm was 90 bucks. Something similar in a JL would be about 500.


Here are some pics http://picasaweb.google.com/MPushkal...Kb3zeuOpbLDYA#
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