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  #11  
Old 01-02-2011, 07:56 PM
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I might get %$#@ for this but I would pull trans then drop motor in bolt up motor Then mate trans to motor. The trans is alot lighter to move around then the motor
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  #12  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:06 PM
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I think he's already doing that,,,
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  #13  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:53 PM
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After spending two freaking days screwing around with something that should be so easy compared ... a combine engine!!! I have one bolt left to the cross member and just got tired of laying in ATF.
Now what's the best way to lift this whole mess?? I asked earlier on but no one replied. I am currently using four exhaust manifold bolts and chain plates. There's is probably a preferred way....
You would think a truck would be easier than a tractor....(sigh)
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  #14  
Old 01-02-2011, 09:16 PM
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I am not sure, but, isn't Chrysler product transmission torque converters the ones that have the crazy 3 step way of installing?
something like slide it on the shaft, rotate until it slides forward, rotate again until it goes all the way in, then use a open end wrench to hold it in place & use vice grips or some tool to hold the wrench?

READ THIS!! i believe it is your answer, by the way, did you replace the front seal in the transmission, if you do it now, you won't have to do this all over again in the future?
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../torqconv.html

the main part reads
To install the new seal, press it into the housing and gently tap it home with a hammer. Use a seal driver or a really large socket if possible; otherwise just be really careful to not let it get cocked in the bore. Press it in small stages.

Back to the front: slide the new torque converter onto the shaft. The outermost part of the converter should sit about half an inch into the bellhousing -- use a straightedge and measure it if you're not sure. It'll slip on the first part without effort, but may require some twisting and pushing to seat fully. Get this correct now, because you'll be doing it again later if you mess up.

Use a pair of small C-clamps or Vise-Grips to brace the converter in position. Hint: if you can't do this because there's not enough bellhousing lip in front of the converter, then the converter's not fully seated.

On the engine, unbolt the flexplate. It's held on by six 3/4" bolts. Install the new flexplate and torque down to 55 ft-lb. Odds are, both operations will require an assistant holding the crank nut with a breaker bar.

Coat the crankshaft's hub detent with grease.

Wheel that tranny back under the truck and raise it to near engine level. The engine has two dowel pins pressed in it; these fit into corresponding holes in the transmission bellhousing. Push the transmission up against the engine so that the pins guide it into place. This could take some serious coaxing, but eventually it'll work. When it does, thread one bolt on each side to hold the transmission in position.
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  #15  
Old 01-02-2011, 10:21 PM
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Was the convertor your issue ? Did you get the motor and trans mated up ?
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:42 AM
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Well....
I think I may have found they problem...I have been trying to hook her up with the converter on the engine. Did I wreck something by pulling it off this way? Looks like I need to have the converter on the tranny?
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2011, 12:57 PM
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If you forced anything, I am betting on the trans being damaged. The only way I know to check in a DIY environment is to put the convertor on the trans, making sure it is seated. Bolt it all up and see if the trans works. Maybe there is a better way.
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2011, 05:15 PM
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I'm pretty sure the converter needs to be on the tranny..
So that ought to be easy but I ain't gonna be able to get to it for a couple of days.
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  #19  
Old 01-03-2011, 05:25 PM
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I see that you didn't read my last post

there is a trick to making the converter sit ALL THE WAY IN, read the whole article, there is even pictures

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../torqconv.html
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  #20  
Old 01-03-2011, 06:11 PM
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Yeah....I did. That's how I finaly figured out that I need to take the converter OFF THE FLEX PLATE. It's painfully obvious where I screwed up now...(sigh). Doing a long distance diagnosis is often so hard to do on these forums where you kinda assume the guy with the problem has some clue. Guess this is my turn to be the dolt. I really do a much better job on the small engine forums where I have dozens of pre-typed responses to the same questions that pop up every two weeks. Like the infamous Briggs head gasket or the one that explains in explicit detain what AFTER TDC means.
So...hopefully maybe Weds afternoon I'll know if this goes back together and still works.
Thanks for all the replies and though I feel really stupid (!!!) , I'll let everyone know how it turned out.
Wish me luck.
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