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Dodge Ram 4x4 - Offroad Discussion All about Off-Road in here! From prep to execution! Let us know how you roll Off Road in your Dodge Ram Truck!


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  #11  
Old 01-06-2011, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAMVANSAM View Post
I would guess that the tire width would be the main issue for turning radius....but it shouldn't be an issue, just run over whatevers in your way.
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On a serious note...I'm not familiar with the newer trucks, but older solid axle trucks have adjustable steering stops on thier spindles. Not to insult yer truck, but if the installer had to cooble in some spacers on your wheels, perhaps the steering stops had to be adjusted out as well to keep contact on the inner fender to a minimum. That will kill your turning radius!

Last edited by Okiespaniels; 01-06-2011 at 06:10 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-06-2011, 06:23 PM
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Are the tires rubbing or hitting on hard turns ? If not , I'd have to say it's ok .
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScatPak07 View Post
Well I have a 07 Ram with a 6" lift with 35" tires as well. I did not notice that the steering got any worse. I have about the same turning radius as before. I do notice the other thing you mentioned with the shimmy at full lock. I dont know what causes this but something to do with the lift and larger tires must be the cause.

I also drive a 2011 Ram and the turning radius is great. U-turns are easy and it turns without any problems. There is definitely something wrong but I am not sure.
The "shimmy" is caused by the steering column extension, if I am understanding you correctly. Basically, the addition of an extension into your column so it can reach your gearbox, is wobbling because of the extra universal joints in it. If the U-joints havent been greased in awhile, and they are fitted with ZIRT fittings, it might be a good time to do so.

of course, the shimmy could just be the extra slack due to the extra joints. However, your radius should be the same, I have a stock height 2009 4x4, and its radius sucks too. I notice it every time I turn the wheel, it feels like it should have one more spin in the wheel before it locks, so I end up smacking off the stops.
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  #14  
Old 01-08-2011, 04:04 PM
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When i got my 6" bds lift i did notice some radius loss. Of course its a quad cab 4x4 so its not gonna be great. I know when i got my new wheels and tires (37x12.50-20) The wheels had to be a certain offset or back spacing (cant remember) because of the lift spindles. it said the stock wouldnt fit on the website. Yours may have spacers because they were bought before the lift and the owner didnt want to buy another set of wheels.
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Old 01-09-2011, 03:19 PM
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Well, I have finally had a chance to get to a dealer and jump into a 2011 4x4 Crew Cab. Drove it around the block a couple of times and did a few low speed doughnuts in an empty parking lot at full lock each way. I defitnitely noticed a difference, but not much. The turning radius is tighter on the stock truck, but not overwhelmingly so. It did take to attempts to park the truck after pulling back into the dealer lot. It may be just that Im not quite used to it, but it seemed my Titan was much easier to park, and turned quite a bit tighter. But I had a King Cab (extended, not full crew cab), and I honestly dont know how long the wheel base was.

I did however notice a difference in the steering wheel at full lock. On my lifted Ram, I can turn the wheel 1 1/4 turns from top center to full lock. (Top of steering wheel turns a full turn, plus about 90 degrees, so the top is pointing right on a R turn). Where as on the stock truck I was able to turn the wheel about 1 2/3 full turns. So Im guessing this is where the difference in turn radius comes in.

Does anyone know if the ProComp lift includes turning stops? Could that be causing the shorted wheel turn? If so, are they like rubber bump stops that can be shaved down, or replaced with smaller ones? I do here a bit of a whine when holding the steering wheel at full lock either way. Any ideas on this?

- And its not really a shimmy I feel. It just seems that the truck rolls a bit to one side or the other whenever I trun the wheel to full lock. Not a shimmy in the steering wheel or in the front end. Just like a weight shift to the right or left. Not noticeable when moving, just at a stop. Im sure its just the shift of the wheels and tires to a different angle.


- Havnt had a chance to get any pictures taken. I need to wash the truck this afternoon and will shoot a few and throw them up. Sorry for the delay.

Thanks again for all of the help/insight. Its greatly appreciated.
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  #16  
Old 01-09-2011, 04:43 PM
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i would suggest that that you crank the steering wheel all the way left or right & slide under it, see if it is close to hitting anything
with your power steering making a whining noise, sounds like you are at the limit of your turning radius

if you need to make a shorter full circle radius or even a quick u turn, do it in reverse, any vehicle turns in a shorter radius going backwards, that is why the police use that method
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:16 PM
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The 6" ProComp lift on my '09 1500 didn't have steering stops
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  #18  
Old 01-10-2011, 07:33 PM
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the reason your titan may have turned sharper is cause dodges can just push anything they want out of the way where as the titan has to maneuver around obstacles
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:45 PM
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Ok guys, I had a few free minutes from work yesterday and slid under the truck to check out the steering set up and try to figure out what the deal was. What I found slightly concerned me.

I looks as though the spindle/knuckle is contacting the lower control arm. There seems to be a piece that stick out away from the spindle with a curve in it, that appears it is designed to curve around a tubular lower arm, possibly. But looking at the stock lower arm (pro comp lift uses stock lower arms) is not round, more of a boxed type. It also appears that the lower arm is already being damaged (and must be very soft aluminum) where the two corners of the curved spindle piece are contacting it.

A few pictures to clarify







My question is, what should I do? Would grinding the curved piece that stick out from the spindle off be bad? If I could remove it so the backside of the knuckle is flat and flush, it would give me an extra 1/2 inch of space before contact with the lower arm, and would then not be digging into the lower arm. It doesnt look as if this will harm the shackle in any way, but I also wouldnt want to do something that could reduce its strength.

Then again, I dont want to destroy the lower control arms. The truck barely has 8000 miles on it, with less than 3k on the lift. If it is already cutting into the arm, what will happen in another 20k? Are there after market lower control arms designed to be used with the ProComp lift?

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Can anyone with a PC lift take a look to see if this is a unique situation, or if all of the lifts from Pro Comp are like this? Also, Id like to know if the BDS lifts are like this or not.

Any info/help/advice would, again, be greatly appreciated.
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Last edited by PigzFly; 01-11-2011 at 07:29 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-11-2011, 12:47 PM
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Here are a few pictures of the whole truck itself, just to give you guys a taste









Let me know what you guys think!
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