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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #11  
Old 02-05-2011, 08:26 AM
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stock...lol

The stock intake pulls cold air from outside the engine bay, so why would you want to spend hundreds of dollars to get the same thing? You'll only gain $5 worth of air flow and performance for all that money....most just buy the kits because they look aftermarket.

If I were to do anything I would just remove the baffled part of the intake by the throttle body and maybe replace the ribbed intake tube with a smooth one, and then if you want a reusable filter that's up to you(you won't benefit much from the increased airflow though, as the engine doesn't need more air), however I like those filters just because they last the life of the truck. I know there used to be a company out there that sold "junior" cai kits for under $100 that had the filter and smooth tube for the hemi, not sure about now though.
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  #12  
Old 02-05-2011, 08:28 AM
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I just reread my post and it sounds mean lol. I wasn't trying to be a jerk, just trying to help with some info....anyway, also wanted to add that if you build your own like some I've seen that just run a filter in the corner of the engine bay you will actually lose power because it will be hot air...
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  #13  
Old 02-07-2011, 02:29 PM
will1691 will1691 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
I just reread my post and it sounds mean lol. I wasn't trying to be a jerk, just trying to help with some info....anyway, also wanted to add that if you build your own like some I've seen that just run a filter in the corner of the engine bay you will actually lose power because it will be hot air...
I bought mine like you said for aftermarket look, but i also bought it for the ease of putting it in it comes with all the recirc tubes along with an extension for the wiring. Its easy enough to do a custom like you said, it mostly depends on the person. I def did pickup a few HP/MPGs though with all of the restrictive stock parts off of the engine.
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  #14  
Old 02-07-2011, 02:38 PM
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I looked it up and Airraid is the company that made the junior kits, they still make them and even have them for the 4.7L now. They are slightly pricier than they used to be though. You'll definitely gain power but I think there is a massive misconception that the gain comes from the gigantic cone filter and different from stock shaped air box....the majority of the gain comes from removing the baffles and ribbed tube, then the rest from the filter(unless the vehicle doesn't already pull air from outside the engine bay...).
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2011, 03:25 AM
85fury 85fury is offline
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Default If you build it they will come..(DYI CAI) Build/Pics

If you have a bit of mechanical and welding knowledge building your own CAI is about a 5/10 on the difficulty scale.
I fabbed mine a few months ago. First things first, figure out which material you want to use: aluminum, stainless steel or plastic. I personally went with 3" stainless steel. If you look in your phone book and go to your local metal supply you should be able to find a good assortment of stainless or aluminum tubing. I picked up about 2.5 feet of 3" stainless tubing for about $50. You will also need 2 3" rubber or silicone boots and 4 3" clamps. These can be purchased from your local car parts store for around $45, or do what I did and went to my local hardware store, can't beat $7.50 each.

Next step is to remove your air resonator and air box. This is very simple, their should be 2 10mm bolts for your resonator then you should be able to release the entire unit. You want to remove the entire resonator and top and bottom air box for better view before measuring. You will also need to remove the ATS (Air temp sensor) which you can do by using a flat head screw driver and turning the sensor VERY CARFULLY (Put in safe place). You will also need to remove the breather tube. Remove by pulling.
You should now have a giant hole in the left side of the engine bay and you should be able to see the intake very clearly.
The next step is to take a tape measure and figure out what length you want to have your tubing.

Welding: Now not everyone has a access to a welder and or the knowledge of how to weld. If you don't want to weld you can either do one of three things: one, to either get a freind or welding shop to do this for you, two, to either get a fab shop to bend the appropriate angle needed, or three, to either go to your local car parts store and order a 45' 3" tube.

Once your weld or bend is completed you'll need to start "dry fitting" your setup. Start by taking the rubber or silicone boot and clamps and place it over the engine intake and secure it into place. Next take the length of the main tube (with either welded or bent tube, should be between a 45' and 60' angle) and secure it to the boot with the clamp.
Once this is done you should have a steel tube that is decently secure.

Next step is to mark a place for the ATS( Air temp sensor) and breather tube. You will also need to make a support from the engine to the CAI. Take a peice of flat iron or aluminum and bend and measure the appropriate length. You will be using the original resonator bolt down on the engine. Use a felt marker and should be in a rather close proximity to the original location.

Take the entire tube off and drill the holes out. You may want to file the edges down so their do not damage the ATS. Dry fit the ATS sensor and the breather tube. Drill the holes through the aluminum support, then screw it into the tube.

F.Y.I: You may need to look around for a proper size plastic tube to re-insert the breather into the new tube (Try local hardware stores).

Once everything fits to your liking, make sure you remove the boots, clamps and ATS from the tube so you have the tube only. Now you can either leave the bare steel look, I would recomend you atleast put a clear coat on it to prevent rusting. Choose a good high heat spray paint and proceed to sand and paint a couple coats.

Once the tube is dry re-attach the entire unit including the ATS and breather (you may need a high heat silicone to help secure the ATS. You can now attach your cold air filter to the tube with the clamps. Attach the alluminum or flat iron support from the engine to the CAI with the original 10mm bolt. Make sure everything is clamped down and secured properly.
Thats it! Your done!

Materials needed (suggested):
-2.5' of 3" steel tubing
-x2 3" rubber/silicone boots
-x4 steel hose clamps
-x1 Cold air cone style filter (3"input)
-A good welder and or friend with a good welder
-Lots of beer

Well I hope that helps!
I made mine with 3" stainless and I got a filter from a friend for $10. I will be replacing it with a K&N filter ($50). I works really well, its the only mod i've done so far, and its great. The truck sound awesome, nice and quiet until you give it some power (around 3500rmp) then you'll here it go. Also another cool thing, the filter I have has a "dual cone" which gives the engine a supercharger type whistling sound which really turns heads.
All in all it cost me about $80 to make.

Thanks,
Nick
Pennzoil Rep Canada

Here’s some pictures of the build:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG-20110219-00079.jpg (130.6 KB, 87 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20110219-00081.jpg (129.0 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20110219-00083.jpg (129.9 KB, 54 views)

Last edited by 85fury; 02-20-2011 at 01:38 PM.
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  #16  
Old 02-20-2011, 05:23 PM
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http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread....420#post449420
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2011, 03:31 PM
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Not seen it mentioned on here, but a word of caution on CAIs and any aftermaket air filters. Make sure you use a dry filter (no oil). I have not really looked in detail at the RAM intake set-up, but I am sure it is same as most modern engines, with Mass Air Flow Sensor, Intake Air Temperature sensor etc.
I put a CAI on my 2001 Landrover. It was great until about a year later when the Service Engine light started coming on. Web search gave me the same info I am giving here.
The oil from the filter, over time, creates a film on the intake sensors and screws them up, it also puts high temp oil on the o2 sensors and burns them up. I ended up chasing errors and replacing bits, including going back to stock air intake. About $1200 later (New MAF, new O2 sensors etc), the service light went out!!
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  #18  
Old 03-03-2011, 08:09 AM
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No MAF sesor on the ram, oil doesn't bother the IAT (I'm sure some level could, but not the amount that would be on an air filter onless you so something terribly wrong).
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  #19  
Old 03-03-2011, 07:42 PM
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Yeah oiled filter won't hurt anything. I've run them on my bikes and trucks for years without issues (never had anything with a MAF though so no experience there). I actually like the oiled type because it helps keep things lubricated.
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:53 PM
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Default 25$ and 15 mins..to do

just borrowed krazyk idea
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