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  #11  
Old 02-26-2011, 04:35 PM
kevinph kevinph is offline
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I lined up the timing mark on the crank and then checked the cam sprocket. V8 mark is at 12 o'clock. No paint marks on the chain, but I'm pretty sure timing is okay.

Besides the noise is there any way to check/test for bad lash adjusters?

Before pulling the valve cover the engine threw a P-0340 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit) code. I cleared it and it came back again when running the engine as described above. There is ground and reference voltage at the sensor.

The noise I'm trying to fix has been around since he bought the truck used 20,000 miles ago.
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2011, 05:54 PM
kevinph kevinph is offline
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Can I use a generic OHV spring compressor on this engine to get to the lash adjusters? I hate to pay over $100 for a special tool for this one use.
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Old 02-26-2011, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinph View Post
Can I use a generic OHV spring compressor on this engine to get to the lash adjusters? I hate to pay over $100 for a special tool for this one use.
I haven't seen anyone try it but it's got to be worth a shot.
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:18 AM
kevinph kevinph is offline
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Ignore the note about the P-0340 code. I had not hooked the cam sensor up which was what caused the code.

Using a stethoscope and running with the valve covers off I isolated the noise to the front cam cap and chain guide.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:32 AM
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I have the timing cover off the engine. The secondary tensioner on the right side of the engine is fully extended and there is slack in the chain. The tensioner arm can bounce up and down and that appears to be what is causing the noise. The secondary tensioner arm does have wear.

It seems to me that replacing parts isn't going to take up the slack if the tensioner is fully extended. Is there some way to be sure I have it fixed before closing the engine back up?

I'd really like to get this done today.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:45 AM
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Chain stretch or broken guides are about the only things that can cause the tensioners to max out. Keep in mind that the ratcheting pedestal that holds the tensioner guide on the chain is only there to prevent excess slack when the engine is off. Oil pressure will extend the tensioner farther once the engine is running. If you're concerned about the chains getting the proper tension while running, start the engine with the front cover off and observe the chains. Just make sure you have the long bolt installed in the idler gear or you won't have any oil pressure.
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:16 AM
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anyway to measure "maximum" extension on the tensioner?

My plan is to install the new tensioner and tensioner arm. The guide at the top of the pasenger side shows almost no wear and then start the engine with the cover off and see if the noise is gone and chains tighetn up.

Which "long bolt" are you talking about. The one that goes through the tensioner or the one that is kind of behind the tensioner. Will wither one tighten up enough with the cover off or will I need some type of spacer?

Also - I'm prety sure some coolant must have gotten into the oil pan when pulling the front cover. Do i need to worry about water in the oil if I plan on starting the engine with the cover off?

Thanks for the help!
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  #18  
Old 03-12-2011, 09:42 AM
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Also can you confirm:

Timing chain guide bolts 21 Ft-lbs
Timing chain tensioner arm pivot bolt 150 in-lbs
Timing chain tensioners ( primary and secondary ) 21 ft-lbs.

Also re-read your earlier post. You said idler gear - I did not remove any gears/chain. I was replying about the belt tensioner arm. Wanted to be sure I have all correct bolts in place before starting the engine with the timing cover off. please clarify and thanks again

Last edited by kevinph; 03-12-2011 at 09:58 AM.
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  #19  
Old 03-12-2011, 08:05 PM
kevinph kevinph is offline
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I put it all back together and tried to start the engine. Engine cranks but no start. Any idea what might keep the engine from starting after replacing the tensioner, tensioner arm and chain guide?

No codes either
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2011, 11:21 AM
kevinph kevinph is offline
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I am still looking for some help with diagnosing a no start after replacing tensioner, etc.

Here is what I know so far. Engine cranks but does not start. Fuel pressure exists ( I cannot measure PSI but there is fresh fuel at the rail and it ran before I took the front cover off). ASD relay clicks on when key moved to run - does not click off with extended crank. No OBD-II codes - engine just doesn't start. I removed cam sensor connector - code P0340 and ASD clicks off. Engine will not start with cam sensor disconnected. [ I have reconnected cam sensor and cleared P0340].

I suspect that I have caused an electrical problem. How can I test injectors/coil/spark on this vehicle? I do not have a scope, but do have a multimeter.

I also notice that the oil pressure gauge is not pumping up when cranking - should it?

How can I check operation of crank sensor?

Last edited by kevinph; 03-13-2011 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Aditional Information
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