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Electrical 3rd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #11  
Old 03-13-2011, 12:08 PM
senake2 senake2 is offline
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yes , i checked the fuse for interior illumination, and others which i may think could be cause and all looks good,
Is there are any perticular fuse or other areas which i have check?
thanks for the reply
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  #12  
Old 03-13-2011, 02:09 PM
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Have you run the EMIC actuator test? This is described on the 12th page of the attachment I attached to post #8 in this thread. This will be a great starting place to determine what's wrong.
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  #13  
Old 03-14-2011, 09:33 PM
senake2 senake2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CdnoilRAM View Post
Have you checked the fuses in the fuse panel?
yes, i checked all the fuses and looks ok,
does anybody knows where is the intergrated power module, there is one fuse which i want check
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  #14  
Old 03-14-2011, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senake2 View Post
yes, i checked all the fuses and looks ok,
does anybody knows where is the intergrated power module, there is one fuse which i want check
Under the hood, drivers side, about 1/2 way to the front. It's the thing with the fuses on top.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:17 PM
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Hello, I'm new to this forum but not this problem. Has anyone figured out exactly what the cure is? Here's what I'm up against.It started with all my gauges going dead intermittently. Not all gauges would always go dead together either, also the brake, abs, CEL, and air bag light would come on and go off. Now occasioanlly the truck will not keep running. It will start and then after a few seconds stall, this is accompanied by the little red light coming on beside the temp gauge. Last night I could not keep the truck running unless I rapidly cycled the key once it started. I let it sit overnight and tried it this morning, it started and kept running, but now the brake and abs lights are on. I can't drive the truck like this because I don't know when it's going to not start. Currently the fan clutch is unplugged as I was told this might have been the problem, but it's not. Also, when it acts up like this my code reader will not communicate with the truck. I need help urgently and don't know where to go from here. Should I replace the gauge cluster ($600), or rip apart all the wiring? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the J1850 communication bus? I know code P1652 means it's shorting out somewhere.
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  #16  
Old 08-30-2012, 12:42 AM
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There is an attachment in post 8 with 60 pages of service information on the instrument cluster including the 2004 wiring diagram.

Here is a link to the 2004 Ram Communications Bus Wiring drawings.
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2013, 10:35 PM
bluewateradventures bluewateradventures is offline
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Default cluster problem?

Quote:
Originally Posted by prsch914 View Post
2004 6spd Cummins 4wd. My problems seemed to start after I removed the instrument cluster to replace a couple of dash light bulbs. Since that time I have an intermittent gauge failure. For less than a second a gauge/instrument will 'drop' to 0 then immediately return to a functional state. The most common offender is the fuel gauge. The low fuel 'chime' will sound once. The low fuel light may come on, might not. The gauge may or may not drop to empty. But all of this very brief - as second or less; then back to normal. Sometimes the tach or speedo may do the same thing - if so, they usually precede the fuel gauge in their action (drop to zero and immediately back to normal function). More rarely the temp gauge may falter or even the air bag or check engine light may flash on. The engine never stumbles or misses - runs fine. Very intermittent, but occurs about every 2-5 minutes on the average. Again, the fuel gauge seems to be the most frequent, but other gauges can stumble with or independent of the fuel. BTW, the fuel tank is well over 1/2 full.

I've pulled the instrument cluster 'codes': 2b (?), A4 (?), A5 (TCCM message not received), AA (PCM messages not received), Ab (TCM messages not received), AC (ABS messages not received), Ad (FCM messages not received), AE (ACM messages not received), and AF (ACM messages not received). sounds like a LOT of problems - but again, truck runs fine and instruments act fine 99.9% of the time. Unhooked battery (reset computer ?), removed instrument cluster and cleaned contacts and reassembled - no help. Tried to download OBDII codes, but no communication between truck and reader - reader works fine on other vehicles. Was able to get OBD codes by cycling ignition switch 'on' / 'off' several times: 0191 & 0483 are probably not associated issues, but the 1652 (communication bus) certainly could be.

Truck is functional, but obviously not right - and annoying. I'm pretty mechanically savvy, but admittedly am electronically ignorant. Sounds like some kind of communications error (intermittent). What to do? Where to look? Seems that the instrument cluster itself is okay?

If I've sent this request to the wrong forum, will someone who knows better please forward to the appropriate audience?

Thank you in advance,

WBrown
Before you get really frustrated there is two things you should check. The relay in the power distribution center for the alternator, (will effect the voltage to theguages. Second, on top of the motor are a bunch of wires wrapped. In there are two ground wires which are joined into one, Dodge does not solder this connection only crimps it and eventually the connction fails causing your computer to reboot for about 30 seconds. This why your guages fluctuate or freeze. Hope this helps.
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  #18  
Old 12-16-2014, 07:01 PM
rmz2004 rmz2004 is offline
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Default 2004 Ram 1500 Quad cab SLT 4wd

I started writing this when my computer restarted, ugh.

So I had this problem where my instrument cluster was completely dead, as were the turn signals, hazards, headlights ON when key is in RUN, off when key is in OFF, and no power locks or dome light.

Which is a ridiculous design, BTW... Yes, it saved Chrysler money on copper wire, and perhaps simplified the wire harnesses. But replacement parts are not cheap, and not easy to find because of the specifics here.

After checking the fuse and the voltage at Fuse 51 (it's in a special holder) the next step was to replace the cluster. At least for me; I decided I would change it out to see if the problem goes away.

Thanks to brad12kx for this awesome copy of the Dodge troubleshooting guide for these things. I couldn't have figured this out so quickly if not for that. This link takes you to a copy of the guide:

http://www.ramforumz.com/attachment....3&d=1299130811


I went to a junk yard, and they just happened to have a "fresh" truck just like mine, except it was junked and mine isn't (so far!). The cluster was in good condition and I was able to remove it without further damage.

The 2004 and 2005 units are supposedly interchangable, AS LONG AS they have the same options (like power locks that engage at 15+MPH), AFAIK.

To remove the cluster:

***DISCONNECT THE BATTERY***

I have a switch on mine which disconnects the (-) terminal for convenience. Either that or remove the negative battery cable for the duration of this procedure.

1. Remove the trim bezel surrounding both the left and right hand driver's side dashboard air vents. Left side has the headlight switch, right hand side has two vents (one on each side) and surrounds the radio and heater controls. These bezels will pop out if they are gently pried away from the dashboard (there is ONE screw - bottom right of the right hand panel inside the area where there is that plastic "hook").

2. Remove the instrument cluster trim bezel. Two screws (top, above the cluster 'glass'). The bottom of the bezel is held in with two more push lock tabs, like the other two bezels.

3. Remove the four screws holding the cluster to the dashboard.

4. There are three or four wire harness connectors in the back of the cluster, each is locked with a tab up top. Press the tab into the connector and pull the connector away from the cluster. I used a screwdriver to gently add some force to the connectors, persuading them to move a little easier.

5. Remove the RKE unit from the back of the old cluster unit and install it in the back of the "new" one. This controls your keyless entry fobs. If you skip this step, you won't be able to use the key fobs. This device is about the size of a pack of smokes, and it's mounted with locking clips on each side of it in the center of the back of the instrument cluster.

6. Once the new cluster is in position, reverse steps 1-4 to reinstall. You'll want to attach the wire harness connectors BEFORE mounting the cluster, but it will need to be close to that position or the wires won't reach.

Once the cluster is connected and screwed in, make sure key is on OFF position.

Reconnect the battery.

Press the Odometer Reset switch. Turn the key to "Run" position, do not start the vehicle yet. Release the Odometer Reset.

The cluster will run a self test, all the lights will turn on in the unit, and the gauges will sweep the dials. When the test completes, the left LED (vacuum?) display will show any fault codes present, and then restore the vehicle to "normal" operation.

The only drawback so far is that the mileage still reflects the other vehicle.

Since I know the "true" mileage, that's not a real problem. Unless or until I sell the thing. I believe the dealer - if you show them enough $$ - will likely be able to help with this.

I will try to attach pictures to show you what I did.

***my pictures are apparently way too big; so no uploads. Let me know if you'd like to see them***


Good luck to all of you

Last edited by rmz2004; 12-16-2014 at 07:04 PM.
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