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  #1  
Old 03-05-2011, 02:37 AM
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Default Transmission fluid change

Is it necessary to do a complete ATF change at a certain milage? If so how much ATF would I need to do a complete change. Also does it have to be ATF +4 or would some thing else work just as well.
Thanks
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Old 03-05-2011, 09:21 AM
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I recommend flushing the transmission at 50,000 miles. Just dropping the pan and filling it back up only gets about 35% of the total fluid capacity which is roughly 5 quarts. A flush will get the fluid in the converter and cooler as well. You MUST use ATF +4 because of the friction modifiers. Here's a list of the approved ATF+4 brands. http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=46400
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:40 AM
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What is the best way to flush the tranny system without havint to take it to a shop? How much fluid will it take to do a complete flush?
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Old 03-05-2011, 01:41 PM
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difficult to empty all fluid your self because half the fluid is in the lines/cooler/torque converter.i pay the 150 bucks to have it flushed on a dialisis type machine not all places have these and dont tell you if u dont ask. if u do it yourself changing the filters and 5 -6 quarts that come out should be all u need unless ur fluid is brown or burnt . or( this is not recomended by me),, may be some 1 else can weigh in on this, but i have seen backyard mechanics run car un hook trans line leading to cooler let drain while adding fluid until it became clean fluid again. sounds like it could cause a problem if done incorrectly...
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:51 AM
pganey pganey is offline
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Default Quantity 5-6 quarts?

My local parts house looked it up and said that my 2010 1500 would require 6.5 quarts of tranny fluid for the change, very similar to what's been indicated here. I changed both filters and put 7 quarts in and it still barley touches the stick. I mean, it's pretty simple, crank the truck, let it warm up, run it through the gears, pull the stick out, wipe it, put it back in, pull it back out and observe the level on the stick. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pganey View Post
My local parts house looked it up and said that my 2010 1500 would require 6.5 quarts of tranny fluid for the change, very similar to what's been indicated here. I changed both filters and put 7 quarts in and it still barley touches the stick. I mean, it's pretty simple, crank the truck, let it warm up, run it through the gears, pull the stick out, wipe it, put it back in, pull it back out and observe the level on the stick. Any suggestions?
How long did you let it drain for? A typical pan drop on an RFE does indeed require about 6-1/2 quarts to refill, but if you let it drain for a long time, you can get up to half of the fluid in the converter to drain out as well (it drips out very slowly over time). So that could require a few extra quarts.
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Old 04-19-2015, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TransEngineer View Post
How long did you let it drain for? A typical pan drop on an RFE does indeed require about 6-1/2 quarts to refill, but if you let it drain for a long time, you can get up to half of the fluid in the converter to drain out as well (it drips out very slowly over time). So that could require a few extra quarts.
Is a passive drain like this sufficient? Do you recommend a power flush? I've heard plenty of opinions on power flushing, some claiming that this can dislodge particles that could gum things up.
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Old 04-19-2015, 05:35 PM
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I bought my filters ( 2 ) right from the dealership, just because they are close by

I took my 2009 Ram w/ the 545RFE to a Speed/Dyno shop that did a full flush with a machine
it has not given me a single problem, before or after
I used Royal Purple Transmission Fluid, i also used Royal Purple in the rear differential, darn stuff is expensive

You should know that they make filters for 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive
The spin on filter works on both types
The flat filter for the 2X4 is skinnier than the 4X4 filter

I now have 122,400 miles on my Ram & i am going to change the filters again, i should have done it at 100,000 miles
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Last edited by GTyankee; 04-19-2015 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboCup87 View Post
Is a passive drain like this sufficient? Do you recommend a power flush? I've heard plenty of opinions on power flushing, some claiming that this can dislodge particles that could gum things up.
The official recommendation is for a simple pan drop and filter change. I cannot give you a recommendation either way for a "power flush" since I am not familiar with the details on how these machines hook up and operate. But I suspect in many cases the primary function of the "power flush" machines is to merely to increase the dealer profit on the fluid change (by justifying a higher charge, while at the same time saving them the time and expense of doing the filter change).

If you are concerned about residual fluid in the converter, then I would do a normal pan drop and filter change, add the same amount of fluid as you drained out, then disconnect one of the cooler lines (at any convenient point), plug the return side so the trans pump doesn't suck air, start the engine and let it idle in Park, and add new fluid down the dipstick tube as it pumps out the cooler line. Once you get about one gallon out of the cooler line (two gallons for a diesel), shut it down, reconnect the cooler line, and set the proper fluid level. You should then have basically all new fluid in your trans.

For reference, the upper line at the trans end on the RFE is the "out" line, and the lower line is the return line. Also note that if you have a Thermal Bypass Valve (TBV, which is an H-shaped block of aluminum somewhere in the middle of the cooler lines), you must disconnect the line somewhere between the TBV and the trans, not between TBV and the cooler.
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:03 PM
TurboCup87 TurboCup87 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TransEngineer View Post
The official recommendation is for a simple pan drop and filter change. I cannot give you a recommendation either way for a "power flush" since I am not familiar with the details on how these machines hook up and operate. But I suspect in many cases the primary function of the "power flush" machines is to merely to increase the dealer profit on the fluid change (by justifying a higher charge, while at the same time saving them the time and expense of doing the filter change).

If you are concerned about residual fluid in the converter, then I would do a normal pan drop and filter change, add the same amount of fluid as you drained out, then disconnect one of the cooler lines (at any convenient point), plug the return side so the trans pump doesn't suck air, start the engine and let it idle in Park, and add new fluid down the dipstick tube as it pumps out the cooler line. Once you get about one gallon out of the cooler line (two gallons for a diesel), shut it down, reconnect the cooler line, and set the proper fluid level. You should then have basically all new fluid in your trans.

For reference, the upper line at the trans end on the RFE is the "out" line, and the lower line is the return line. Also note that if you have a Thermal Bypass Valve (TBV, which is an H-shaped block of aluminum somewhere in the middle of the cooler lines), you must disconnect the line somewhere between the TBV and the trans, not between TBV and the cooler.
Thanks a bunch! That's what I was planning to do. Your ongoing help is greatly appreciated by all members of this board.
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