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  #11  
Old 07-21-2011, 09:42 AM
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A claybar application won't dull your paint or leave anything on your truck but being that it is made to remove contaminants from the paint surface it may very well take any wax that's on there as well. That's why most people wax immediately after. Plus, claybar makes your paint so slick that it makes waxing much easier too. So no, you don't have to wax right after and you probably won't be able to tell much of a difference as far as how shiny your truck is. But, I bet you will be able to tell a nice difference after you put a good coat of wax back on it.

A lot of people don't realize that dish washing detergent, some of the stronger carwash concentrates, and using too much concentrate in your wash mix will actually strip the wax off of your paint as well. That's why it's recommended to wash in dish detergent before you wax to get all the old wax off and to wash with a mild, properly mixed quality carwash in between waxings.

Claybar makes a huge difference, especially if it has never been done on a vehicle that is atleast a few years old. You should be able to wash, clay, and wax your truck in 3-4 hard hours I would say. Then it's good for six months or so (except for a wash every now and then). Good luck!
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Last edited by starquestbd22; 07-21-2011 at 09:46 AM.
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  #12  
Old 04-05-2012, 06:16 PM
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Good info to know! I plan on a good clay barring this weekend.
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:45 PM
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Meguiars makes a whole kit. The 2 clay bars will last you a good while. The kit comes with the cloth, the 2 bars, lubricating spray, and a sample of liquid wax. I used mine last summer and I still have the clay in good shape. The lubricating spray also known as the (quick detail spray) will last for the whole truck, but I just bought a 24oz bottle of it for 8.99. Its also great for quick area cleans for bird poop and such.

The spray will far out limit the clay bars. Make sure you don't drop the clay. If you do, then toss it out. They really absorb the dirt from the ground. Not worth scratching your paint.

The end result is fantastic, washing with dish soap helps remove old wax prior to clean.

Adams also makes a clay bar....the spray same stuff different label essentially. The difference is Adams has a 400gram clay bar, while Meguiars is 200gram. Essentially no big difference. I have seen some great reviews for Adams. If you plan on polishing and buffing they seem to be easy for new users. They color code everything.

The results are fantastic. Paint feels like glass. Remember to do it in the shade, and be sure the car is cool. Otherwise the clay bar will stick to the paint.
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:20 PM
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I just did mine yesterday.wash, clay bar, wash, then used a black box prewax cleaner/polish, then wax, the black box kit is great because all the products are black tinted to help add to the black color of the paint.
look at how much crud i got just from the tailgate.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:11 PM
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Saw this thread and figured I would say a thing or two. Been detailing for 6-7 years or so on the side. Saw a few things in this post and would like to correct them.

You can use the dishwashing soap for the wash part, but don't have to. The clay bar will strip everything off your finish, from embedded contaminates, water spots, pollen, environment fall out, to polishes and wax. You will notice that after you clay bar, you will have standing water on the finish, it won't bead or shed water like it would with a waxed finish. If you do clay your finish, make sure you have enough time to at the very least wax afterwards as your paint will be unprotected.

People that had issues with the clay bar of sticking or not removing water spots are using the bar incorrectly. If the bar is sticking, spray the lube on the finish and bar. If it sticks to the paint, don't worry it won't scratch the paint. Just kind of rub it away with your thumb, wet the area down and continue on. Yes the bar will remove water spots. One poster above with the longer informative post, (good post BTW) just one thing. You don't need to scrub the clay bar on the finish. Kneed the bar, spray the lube on the finish and bar, then gently rub back and forth (front to back) let the bar do the work. At first you will feel resistance, as the bar cleans the finish, you will feel it move easier and easier. No scrubbing required.

Real quick, won't go into extreme detail as every finish is different. This would be for a newer finish without the marring or swirls.

1) Wash

2) Clay - If you don't have any detail spray, pour a few drops of car wash soap into a spray bottle then fill with water and use that for clay lube. Make sure to kneed the clay after working each panel. Break a new bar in half, that way when you drop it and you chuck that piece, you will have a second piece to continue with. No need to risk rubbing sand and grit onto the finish.

3) Wash - again to remove any clay residue.

4) POLISH - Everyone skips this step. Not sure why everyone thinks just a coat of wax makes things all better, polish people, polish.

What does a body shop do after laying down the clear coat on a paint finish, they wet sand then polish the paint to a shine, they don’t wax it to a shine. So why would you just wax your truck the rest of the time?

Polish brings the shine, depth and gloss to the finish, not wax, wax is a protectant with slight gloss enhancements. Make sure to use a non cutting polish. If you have marring/swirls, then you will need a machine (not the cheap $30 10” circular buffer you bought from Sears), cutting pads, and cutting polish (not compound) to remove them. Depending on the level of swirls will determine which combo of pads and polish to use. If people think they can remove the swirls by hand because you’re old school and have before, only thing you did was fill/cover the scratches up. A lot of OTC waxes or polishes have fillers. This is because you don’t have the power, speed or energy needed to break down a polish like a machine does. If you did then you should be able to wet sand a panel with 2000 grit then polish it out by hand to a show car shine. The manufactures use fillers because 1) they want you continue to buy their product because it gave you an awesome, swirl free finish, and 2) the average Joe doesn’t have a machine to remove swirls to start with. Make sure to use microfiber towels for polish/wax removal.

5) Wax. Now that you have polished the finish and got the great shine, protect it with a good coat of wax.

Not saying this is the end all be all post, but just thought I would share a quick bit. As I said the steps above were for a newer non marred finish. Didn't want to get into paint correction and write a 5 page booklet.

Last edited by Jayincali; 06-03-2012 at 06:18 PM.
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