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  #11  
Old 05-08-2011, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
You should buy a leak down compression tester which allows you to test leaks from all sorts of places. Anyways be sure that you torque everything properly (very important) and because your at 150K miles you should replace your head gaskets and valve stem seals maybe do a valve lap job but if you do that valve job make sure the you keep the proper margin on the valves cause if you loose that margin you burn a valve.

clean the throttle body (this isn't going to fix the problem but I like to keep TB's clean idk why...)

you should do an oil pressure test too and also do a vacuum test, if the needle is bouncing at idle then you have some issues with the engine's intake and vacuum.

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND YOU DO A VALVE JOB, Once you take the heads off you will be surprised at what you can find anything from a oil leak to a coolant leak to burn valves just about anything.

I can't tell you exactly what that noise is but all I can say is you need to do a little more work. Whole new gasket set and torque it all properly (im an pain when it comes to that you can tell)

anymore help or questions torque specs whatever just ask me and i will help you best i can
If I need to consider doing head gaskets at 150k then I bought the wrong truck. I mean, maybe youre a hardcore mechanic or something but a valve job isnt exactly like changing your oil. Getting a compression test...ok, hell even taking the time to chase down any vacuum leaks I can get but, even considering changing head gaskets and valve jobs just because I'm at 150k....makes me hope that youre just a bit more OCD than the rest of us lol! No offense meant. I was just shocked/amused by that suggestion as if it were no big deal lol
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2011, 11:36 PM
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Oh and back on topic.....check your radiator for leaks or clogs, a hiss while pressure builds but before heat can cause a lil expansion could be an explination. I've found that to be my issue as well as a crankshaft sensor.
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  #13  
Old 05-09-2011, 03:10 AM
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^ I was shocked also, but if i was in the position and had the time and money i wouldnt think twice about not doing it so i see where he is coming from but back on topic i think i solved it. Had a broken reservoir cap so i think i was getting air bubbles since the cap wasn't allowing the system to get properly pressurized. Im still thinking of replacing the CAT and cleaning the sensors up just for the heck of it.
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2011, 10:54 AM
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I agree! I think we all would if we had the time/money/tools/expertise. Glad to hear you got it figured out. The symptoms sounded like what I was dealing with in my clogged radiator. I'm pulling mine today and either flushing it or replacing it depending on how bad it is. I also am getting a 1391 code for intermittent ckp or cmp signal so I'm gonna try and check and clean the wires and pigtail on my crankshaft p. sensor and hopefully it'll clear up...hopefully.
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2011, 10:52 PM
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Oh valve job is piece of cake. I can rebuild a engine in 1-2 days. I could do a full head job in 12-16 hours. No I'm not really OCD but if you take beyond serious care of a truck it should outlive it's owner, in respects of time of course. But valve job is very easy thing and quick but to me at the least.

Oh just a tip that usually helps with a coolant flush or anything that requires draining the fluid out is that when you replace your thermostat to drill three holes in it so it helps with the bypass and it helps with burping the air out. I have a van with rear heat and a/c so I use alot of coolant and it is a real pain to do anything that requires coolant to the rear, even flushing the system doing a complete purge is a pain for me I need pumps and gallons of beyond gallons of distilled water.
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:14 AM
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@ramvan I'll have to check that out but we found that the radiator was fine as was the waterpump...or so it seems. My problems seems to be caused by this crankshaft position sensor. After I reinstalled my radiator I started the truck and my uncle hooked up his scan tool. He backed the timing down and all of the sudden the truck ran ALOT better. No backfiring and it had some pickup. It wasnt all the way right but he said that if that sensor is reading wrong its gonna throw off alot of other sensors as well as cause the engine to bog and wanna overheat. I was able to get the truck home and while it ran warm (needle touching the far side of 210) it didnt overheat. I got it home and changed the sensor and now it seems to run like it did before he messed with the timing. So today I'm gonna try and get the timing set, though of all the things I've done to a car this has never been one of em. I'm almost tempted to put the old sensor back just to see what gives.
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Old 05-11-2011, 02:29 PM
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@ramvan I'll have to check that out but we found that the radiator was fine as was the waterpump...or so it seems. My problems seems to be caused by this crankshaft position sensor. After I reinstalled my radiator I started the truck and my uncle hooked up his scan tool. He backed the timing down and all of the sudden the truck ran ALOT better. No backfiring and it had some pickup. It wasnt all the way right but he said that if that sensor is reading wrong its gonna throw off alot of other sensors as well as cause the engine to bog and wanna overheat. I was able to get the truck home and while it ran warm (needle touching the far side of 210) it didnt overheat. I got it home and changed the sensor and now it seems to run like it did before he messed with the timing. So today I'm gonna try and get the timing set, though of all the things I've done to a car this has never been one of em. I'm almost tempted to put the old sensor back just to see what gives.
Usually when it's a timing chain you don't change the chain regularly like you do a belt (every 60K). But you would change the chain if it stretches or jumps or if there is excessive sprocket wear of course. You may consider doing a timing advance or retardation depending on your use if you prefer more torque low end or better gas mileage.

Be sure when you do your timing to make sure the rotor is pointed at the number one cylinder you can rotate the crack shaft with a socket wrench and turn it clockwise I believe. Be sure to disconnect your negative terminal on the battery for safety. If you do the timing be sure you have bought a timing chain cover gasket set you can pick one up from autozone for 9.99 it's a felpro set comes with gaskets for the water pump and timing chain cover it should also come with a seal for the crank shaft, be sure to replace that seal while your at it. Also I recommend you buy some permatex HI-Tack Gasket Sealant and put that on both sides of the gaskets. And when you put the water pump back on the timing chain cover use Permatex PTFE Thread Sealant on the wet bolts. Also be sure to put some Permatex Ultra Grey RTV on the corners of the oil pan gasket. Don't use anything very abrasive to remove the old gaskets just use a scraper and some gasket remover, I like to use Brake Cleaner or Carb Cleaner, Carb Cleaner has acetate and toluene much like goof off so it does a fine job and you can get a can from autozone for 1.99.

MAKE SURE YOU TORQUE everything properly. You don't want bolts to come loose then you have parts falling off lol. Check the aluminum bolts for stretching which you will probably find, any bolts that are stretched I would replace them else wise they will snap when torquing (happened to me).

Any questions or need help yell at me and I will try to help ya best as I can!
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  #18  
Old 05-12-2011, 12:49 AM
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found muddy oil....i think I need hg.....how ironic is that?
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  #19  
Old 05-12-2011, 12:28 PM
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found muddy oil....i think I need hg.....how ironic is that?
Not ironic at all. But like I have said, it's something you should of replaced while you were at it. I think it's best to replace the head gaskets every oh around 100K miles give some of course Maybe 150k 120K. It would be best cause like you said why replace it when not needed well what happens 10K miles down the road when it does need it, you will be like I should of replaced it when that redneck told me too... LOL But anyways not checking for mud in the oil check for water like substance and yellow coloured oil. Also if it does need a new head gasket then you best do a valve job. If you do all of that it will should so good I promise you my left nut it will be beastly that engine.

But now you found some evidence. But keep looking just incase. Be sure to take pics
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  #20  
Old 05-16-2011, 07:37 PM
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yeah I'm not happy. I have both guides plus I'm trying to find a step by step somewhere online. I guess I'm just leary about doing it myself cuz I've never done it but it seems fairly straight forward. I'm also thinking about some upgrades while I'm at it......hit me up...I have some questions
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