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  #1  
Old 10-20-2014, 04:40 PM
jedoud jedoud is offline
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Vehicle: 1987 Dodge Ram D150 Custom
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Default 1987 Ram D150 Custom

The truck starts and runs fine for a few minutes and then quits, like it ran out of gas. New fuel pump, and carb is getting fuel, so I am thinking maybe a rebuild or a new carb. Is this anything that could be fixed, like a jet, or a float issue that would be simple to fix or part of a carb kit. I have rebuilt Holley carbs before, so no bid deal to build another if that is what it takes.

Also anyone know where I can get a carb kit for the single barrel Holley.
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  #2  
Old 10-20-2014, 07:13 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Sounds more like a bad ignition control box and/or ceramic on the firewall. Also, is the choke hooked up and working properly?
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2014, 03:26 PM
jedoud jedoud is offline
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After putting in fresh fuel and trying to run it for a few minutes the choke does seem to be sticking a bit. The truck just recently had a tune up, but I am pretty sure they didn't change the ceramic.

I should have really thought of that, my father used to have a Monarch and we used to carry at least one spare ceramic in the glove box.

When working on it what I found is that it sounds like it is getting too much fuel, and if I leave it for a few minutes I can go out and it will start right back up again. This is why I suspected the carb, as I thought maybe the float might be sticking or not working properly, but maybe that would be the same if the choke were sticking open as well.

I think I need to do some more work on it, and see. It starts hard, until it has started, then it will restart rather easy if I wait a few minutes. I do not remember having to always pump the gas on my fathers car when it was running properly, and that was about the same age, although that had the 318 in it.

So just to re-cap, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, recent oil change, hasn't been run in a while before I got it, so the fuel was old, but I have put in fresh gas, and now I can not get to the end of the driveway before it stalls out, like it has run out of gas. I can keep it going if I feather the fuel and it is in park or neutral, but if it is in gear I can not keep it going. Choke seems to be sticking, but it will kick down if I give it lots of throttle a couple of times.

I am going to be working on it for the next few days, and I will buy a ceramic, and try that, as well as some choke cleaner, see if that will loosen up the choke some.

At the end of the day, if it does seem like the carb needs rebuilding, it would not be all that big of a deal, as the single barrel Holley is a pretty easy carb to rebuild, just a little harder than a Makuni.

I just hope the cost of the ceramic is not too prohibitive, I seem to remember they were about $70.00 back in the 80's, but I think I have seen them for less on Rock Auto. If it is quite a bit more I may have to wait until after Friday to buy the ceramic.
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:53 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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The ignition control box runs around $40. The ceramics should be less than $20. Carb probably needs a refresher too.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:16 PM
jedoud jedoud is offline
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Ignition control box, is that a silver box on the firewall that has two wires running to it? I tried to find a ceramic on the firewall, there wasn't one. So I am assuming that the ICB is the silver box on the firewall that has the two wires going to it.

On another Dodge forum someone talked about the choke being a related issue, and that it could be adjusted. I tried to play a little with the screw while it was running, but as it kicked down it stalled and now I will have to wait until it cools off again to get it started.

It seems to start with one or two pumps of the throttle when it is cold, but it won't start once it has run a minute or two. It also revs up instead of kicking down like it should, so I am wondering if that is perhaps the choke pod, or a vacuum issue. I need a vacuum diagram as there are a few vacuum lines that are just left open, and a couple of vacuum ports that are open and I do not know which vacuum lines go to which ports.

I think I really need to make a run to a junk yard and pick up some basic things like some hoses. My air cleaner is missing several hoses, and I need to figure out where they go. I do not think these are critical, but I wonder how critical that may be. I would think that I should be able to get the truck to run and even if it needs a new filter, and some of the vacuum issues, as long as it stays running. It did run, so it should run again, with an adjustment or two, at least well enough to get to the salvage yard where I can get some parts.
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  #6  
Old 10-22-2014, 06:08 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Yeah, could be a vacuum issue in there as well. Ceramics tended to disappear when things moved to the first computer-controlled fuel injection units, so not sure what to tell you there. Have seen them with all carb'd units.
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Old 10-22-2014, 08:11 PM
jedoud jedoud is offline
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I am going to return the ceramic (resistor) as this model appears to not have one, which is really weird, as I too thought all the carb models had them. It also has the lean burn computer behind the battery, and a ICM on the firewall, so it may be a mid model year model and they didn't change over all the parts.

I live up in Northern New York, so it may also be a Canadian model which may be part of the problem, although it does not have KPH on the dash, so not likely I guess.

I am going to definitely change it over to points, and get rid of that computer control, just more crap to go wrong for no good reason. Having been a computer tech for 20 some odd years, I know that computers can just fail for unknown reasons, so I really do not want them controlling my truck. I swear my next truck is going to be made before 1972, so I do not have to work around all these issues, if I can find one that still runs.

Ordered the carb kit, and going to try that, as I worked on the truck today and figured out that as long as the truck was cold and I had the choke full on it would start fairly easily, and run on full choke until it kicked down, and then I can keep it running by holding the throttle open a little. I can also start it when warm with carb cleaner, but it will not idle when warm, or go into gear unless I rev the engine and slam the shifter into gear. Then I can go a few feet, but I have to be standing into the throttle. I am thinking that the previous driver ran it out of gas one too many times and it has some dirt in the needle, so a good rebuild at least of the top of the carb will most likely sort it out. It runs quite well on carb cleaner, so unless I plan on running it on cam2, I guess I should try to clean up the carb.

Thank you for all your help so far, it has been invaluable to me. I am sure that once I get it figured out it will be one of those really how could I have missed that issues, but I really hope it is the carb, as I really need to get this done before snow really starts to fly.
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  #8  
Old 10-23-2014, 12:32 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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2-wired silver box sounds like the voltage regulator. The ceramic is easy enough to ID. The ignition control box has a 5-wire connector in the shape of a round connector that's been squashed and is not so round any more. While you're at it, why not go for a 318 carb. Check the base gasket sizing, not sure if it's the same, but if it is, why not? Hyper Pak sixes had up to 500cfm 4V carbs.
Are you sure that's a carb and not a Holley throttle body injector? They appeared in 1987, but not on the Slant 6, it was the 3.9 V6.

Last edited by Gen1dak; 10-23-2014 at 12:35 PM.
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  #9  
Old 10-23-2014, 10:13 PM
jedoud jedoud is offline
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Yea, sure is a carb, Holley 1945, and I rebuilt it this afternoon after work, bolted it back on and the truck started up and promptly blew the alt belt, but it ran. It runs a little rough yet, but I had been playing with the fast idle screw a bit before the rebuild to see if I could get it running, so it will need a little adjustment once I get the belt fixed.

I definitely think you are right about the voltage regulator, and I have not found the ICM, but I think that is not necessary at this time. Later I am going to convert to points and dump the lean burn. If I do need to replace the caarb I will definitely look into the 318 option, as I am half considering an engine swap if the slant 6 starts to go south on me.

As before thanks a lot for the help, it has been invaluable, and as I get to know the Dodge better, I like it more everyday. I really didn't want to drive it this winter, being in New York and the levels of salt they use around here, but for now it is all I got. This spring I am going to look around for a SUV, because the wife really wants one, and the D150 will never see another winter.

I am going to post some pictures soon.

If I run into any other issues I at least know where I can come, and who I can ask to find some answers.

Thank you Gen1Dak, very much.
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  #10  
Old 10-24-2014, 09:26 PM
jedoud jedoud is offline
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Well finally got back to the truck, and made some adjustments, but still not running right.

It does not idle right, it is surging, and reving. I can get on the gas in park or neutral and it does okay, but then tries to quit as it comes back to idle. When I try to put it into gear it slams into gear, and as long as I get right on it, it runs, but if I let off, it tries to stall.

I ran out of daylight, so just trying to bounce this around. I am thinking that maybe it is related to ignition now, or vacuum, but I really can not figure it out right now. Will appreciate any suggestions.
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