Originally Posted by brains06
Since I totally hijacked someone elses thread about a hissing noise(sorry bout that), I figured I should start a thread on my project and document it as I go. I actually did a pretty deep search for a step by step on doing head gaskets and couldnt find one. One of the members here RamVan2500 offered to talk me thru it and its been pretty straightforward so far. So as I go I'll take pics and show you what I'm dealing with.
A little history,
I bought the truck running badly for next to nothing and figured I could fix it. I'm not sure if the hg's were bad then or if I messed them up driving the truck to get it home but either way thats where we are now. So far I've:
Drained the coolant
removed the spark plug wires and dist. cap (leaving the wires attached)
removed the alternator
removed the alternator bracket and whoever designed this p.o.s. should be shot. This effin thing makes getting to the water pump bypass hose almost IMPOSSIBLE. Luckily for me the bolts and actually most of the bolts have come off easily.
relocated the A/C compressor
removed the intake manifold
I had some biz to do today so I havent done anything. Tomorrow I plan on getting my hg, intake plenum and and maybe timing cover gaskets. I'll also pick up head bolts and some valve tools.
So far the only tools needed have been SAE and Metric sockets. Deepwell sockets are a must for the manifolds so make sure you have a set.
Here are a few pics of my intake manifold after I took it off.
Ok, so I took off the oil pan and did an examination with a flashlight and couldnt find any cracks so I went ahead with my original plan of getting the intake off at least. As ramvan said, it was pretty easy, the hardest part was the water pump bypass hose. I got the intake off and its covered in peanut butter sludge on the bottom and the valley that was exposed when I got it out was full of sludge and coffee looking oil. Here are a few pics. its pretty nasty so I guess I need to figure a way to clean all this up before I get to the heads. I'm off tomorrow so I may get to them then and see what were dealing with.
Tomorrow I will call you. Note that if your going to get your gasket kit from autozone or something they usually don't have them in stock and they order them and they get them usually within a day or two. However the tools and compounds to do the valve job they stock so tomorrow if you get the heads off we can do the valve job over the phone be sure to have a camera and be able to send photos cause I need to see the edge of the valve to make sure we don't grind to far that we can potentially burn a valve.
The head bolts you can buy at the autozone along with the gasket kit. Be sure you buy the master gasket kit because we need to replace more then just a head gasket and some little gasket, you need new exhaust gasket, intake, etc...
The things you should pickup at the store are:
Masket Engine Gasket Kit
Permatex Valve Grinding Compound
Permatex Ultra Gray Sealant
Permatex Hi-Tack Gasket Sealant
Some form of a PTFE Thread Sealant -For the wet bolts on the water pump
Head Bolt Set
Valve Lapper Tool
Valve Spring Compressor Tool
1 Seal Puller Tool (Helps remove the old time chain cover seal)
20-200 Inch Lb torque wrench
10-150 Foot Lb torque wrench
1 Bottle of Seafoam
5 Liters of 10w30 Oil
2 Gallons of Anti-Freeze
2 Gallons Distilled Water
1 Oil Filter
1 PCV Valve
1 Breather Filter
1 Air Filter
You may have a hard time removing the time chain cover because of the balancer they make a tool to help remove the balancer.
Of course I have your phone number you have mine you have my email vice versa. I will help you do everything from start to finish. If we do the valve job tomorrow and have everything cleaned up then it's just getting the gaskets then done.
A tip don't remove the heater tube from the water pump because the little O-Ring will leak if you reinsert the tube without a new O-Ring
The master gasket kit should come with new valve stem seals. It would be best to replace those seals however you will require a special seal driver tool and I don't think autozone sells them or has them in stock idk... You might be able to drive the seals using a small deep barrel socket.
Be sure to remove the old push rods and clean the push rod galley in the push rod to get as much sludge out as you can possible same for the lifters. Don't remove the timing chain or sprockets or the cam shaft only because you would need to do the timing.