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  #1  
Old 05-24-2011, 04:00 PM
brains06 brains06 is offline
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Default Brains' headgasket replacement project

Since I totally hijacked someone elses thread about a hissing noise(sorry bout that), I figured I should start a thread on my project and document it as I go. I actually did a pretty deep search for a step by step on doing head gaskets and couldnt find one. One of the members here RamVan2500 offered to talk me thru it and its been pretty straightforward so far. So as I go I'll take pics and show you what I'm dealing with.

A little history,
I bought the truck running badly for next to nothing and figured I could fix it. I'm not sure if the hg's were bad then or if I messed them up driving the truck to get it home but either way thats where we are now. So far I've:
Drained the coolant
removed the spark plug wires and dist. cap (leaving the wires attached)
removed the alternator
removed the alternator bracket and whoever designed this p.o.s. should be shot. This effin thing makes getting to the water pump bypass hose almost IMPOSSIBLE. Luckily for me the bolts and actually most of the bolts have come off easily.
relocated the A/C compressor
removed the intake manifold

I had some biz to do today so I havent done anything. Tomorrow I plan on getting my hg, intake plenum and and maybe timing cover gaskets. I'll also pick up head bolts and some valve tools.

So far the only tools needed have been SAE and Metric sockets. Deepwell sockets are a must for the manifolds so make sure you have a set.

Here are a few pics of my intake manifold after I took it off.

Ok, so I took off the oil pan and did an examination with a flashlight and couldnt find any cracks so I went ahead with my original plan of getting the intake off at least. As ramvan said, it was pretty easy, the hardest part was the water pump bypass hose. I got the intake off and its covered in peanut butter sludge on the bottom and the valley that was exposed when I got it out was full of sludge and coffee looking oil. Here are a few pics. its pretty nasty so I guess I need to figure a way to clean all this up before I get to the heads. I'm off tomorrow so I may get to them then and see what were dealing with.
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Old 05-24-2011, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brains06 View Post
Since I totally hijacked someone elses thread about a hissing noise(sorry bout that), I figured I should start a thread on my project and document it as I go. I actually did a pretty deep search for a step by step on doing head gaskets and couldnt find one. One of the members here RamVan2500 offered to talk me thru it and its been pretty straightforward so far. So as I go I'll take pics and show you what I'm dealing with.

A little history,
I bought the truck running badly for next to nothing and figured I could fix it. I'm not sure if the hg's were bad then or if I messed them up driving the truck to get it home but either way thats where we are now. So far I've:
Drained the coolant
removed the spark plug wires and dist. cap (leaving the wires attached)
removed the alternator
removed the alternator bracket and whoever designed this p.o.s. should be shot. This effin thing makes getting to the water pump bypass hose almost IMPOSSIBLE. Luckily for me the bolts and actually most of the bolts have come off easily.
relocated the A/C compressor
removed the intake manifold

I had some biz to do today so I havent done anything. Tomorrow I plan on getting my hg, intake plenum and and maybe timing cover gaskets. I'll also pick up head bolts and some valve tools.

So far the only tools needed have been SAE and Metric sockets. Deepwell sockets are a must for the manifolds so make sure you have a set.

Here are a few pics of my intake manifold after I took it off.

Ok, so I took off the oil pan and did an examination with a flashlight and couldnt find any cracks so I went ahead with my original plan of getting the intake off at least. As ramvan said, it was pretty easy, the hardest part was the water pump bypass hose. I got the intake off and its covered in peanut butter sludge on the bottom and the valley that was exposed when I got it out was full of sludge and coffee looking oil. Here are a few pics. its pretty nasty so I guess I need to figure a way to clean all this up before I get to the heads. I'm off tomorrow so I may get to them then and see what were dealing with.
Attached Thumbnails
Tomorrow I will call you. Note that if your going to get your gasket kit from autozone or something they usually don't have them in stock and they order them and they get them usually within a day or two. However the tools and compounds to do the valve job they stock so tomorrow if you get the heads off we can do the valve job over the phone be sure to have a camera and be able to send photos cause I need to see the edge of the valve to make sure we don't grind to far that we can potentially burn a valve.

The head bolts you can buy at the autozone along with the gasket kit. Be sure you buy the master gasket kit because we need to replace more then just a head gasket and some little gasket, you need new exhaust gasket, intake, etc...

The things you should pickup at the store are:
Masket Engine Gasket Kit
Permatex Valve Grinding Compound
Permatex Ultra Gray Sealant
Permatex Hi-Tack Gasket Sealant
Some form of a PTFE Thread Sealant -For the wet bolts on the water pump
Head Bolt Set
Valve Lapper Tool
Valve Spring Compressor Tool
1 Seal Puller Tool (Helps remove the old time chain cover seal)
20-200 Inch Lb torque wrench
10-150 Foot Lb torque wrench
1 Bottle of Seafoam
5 Liters of 10w30 Oil
2 Gallons of Anti-Freeze
2 Gallons Distilled Water
1 Oil Filter
1 PCV Valve
1 Breather Filter
1 Air Filter


You may have a hard time removing the time chain cover because of the balancer they make a tool to help remove the balancer.

Of course I have your phone number you have mine you have my email vice versa. I will help you do everything from start to finish. If we do the valve job tomorrow and have everything cleaned up then it's just getting the gaskets then done.

A tip don't remove the heater tube from the water pump because the little O-Ring will leak if you reinsert the tube without a new O-Ring

The master gasket kit should come with new valve stem seals. It would be best to replace those seals however you will require a special seal driver tool and I don't think autozone sells them or has them in stock idk... You might be able to drive the seals using a small deep barrel socket.

Be sure to remove the old push rods and clean the push rod galley in the push rod to get as much sludge out as you can possible same for the lifters. Don't remove the timing chain or sprockets or the cam shaft only because you would need to do the timing.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:05 AM
brains06 brains06 is offline
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I think I can get all that except for the torque wrenches. Ill see what I can do though. I was gonna get the kit but instead was gonna buy the intake, exhaust head and timing gaskets along with the bolts. We'll see though
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by brains06 View Post
I think I can get all that except for the torque wrenches. Ill see what I can do though. I was gonna get the kit but instead was gonna buy the intake, exhaust head and timing gaskets along with the bolts. We'll see though
You will need to get those wrenches somehow you can't guess with this. You can rent them from a auto parts store autozone or if their is a harbor freight you can pick some up. I was able to pickup two wrenches for like 10 bucks each after like two cupons etc... anyways. the master kit comes with all gaskets which would just be smart cause it actually works out to be cheaper i did the math for the kit then if bought individually. anyways you will needed everything i listed the sealents, tools etc... something like this you can't really skip here their stuff. but if we could tackle the valve job tomorrow then that would be excellent cause i will be able to call you tomorrow and assist you all the way through it.
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Old 05-25-2011, 04:39 AM
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i would think that you may want to pull the radiator out & get it RODDED OUT at a radiator shop. No sense putting new coolant in a dirty crap filled radiator
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Old 05-25-2011, 01:04 PM
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i would think that you may want to pull the radiator out & get it RODDED OUT at a radiator shop. No sense putting new coolant in a dirty crap filled radiator
Yea he has barely enough to get gaskets and you want him to take a old radiator to a shop yea lol... He is just going to flush it out. That is all that is required.
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:21 PM
KNUCKLE BUSTER KNUCKLE BUSTER is offline
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Default Head gsk

I advise you to check compression i replace many 3.9 and v8 dodges at my shop that motor looks like it has seen better days, just trying to save you time and money. They like to loose compression.
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:05 PM
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I advise you to check compression i replace many 3.9 and v8 dodges at my shop that motor looks like it has seen better days, just trying to save you time and money. They like to loose compression.
Yea sure. Anyways, the carbon buildup over the so many miles helps keep compression up that is as long as the coolant isn't being burned in the cylinder cause if you truely own and shop etc you would know that the burn of the coolant would clean the carbon off. Anyways in the 5.2L Dodge he has the Piston Heads are Aluminum and the Block is Iron, due to thermal expansion he wouldn't loose much compression at all because Al expands at twice the rate then Iron or Steel Does. And since the temperature at detonation can reach as high as 4500F I don't think he has anything to worry about besides if he would have to replace the rings it would cost him a bit of money because he would might as well replace the rod bearings and he would need a ton more tools. But he got this truck for practically nothing which is what it is worth. I am just going to help him get his truck running and with a little extra such as the valve job which is you have a sticky valve you loose compression. One way to tell if you have a sticky exhaust valve is to put a piece of paper to the exhaust pipe and if the exhaust pipe suctions the paper during a intake stoke then you know your due for a valve job. This would also be a case with a burned valve. At this point in the game I wouldn't bother with doing any compression tests I would be more concerned about getting the sludge out as best as he can.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:04 AM
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Lol yeah ain't no way I'm getting a compression test at this point. I got the passenger side heads off and there was coolant sitting on the cylinders. At first I thought the gasket was fine then after looking at it closer I can see where theres a gap but its not in the gasket its in the gook thats on the metal. The gasket looks pretty good actually, but the head looks like it wasnt cleaned or something before it was put on. I'll post pics tomorrow. I also started the cleaning process on the intake manifold. Oven cleaner is the bomb! After I get the other side off I'll take em to our local machine shop and pray for the best. I'm optimistic tho cuz I found the break in the gasket. Look for pics tomorrow.

Last edited by brains06; 05-26-2011 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by GTyankee View Post
i would think that you may want to pull the radiator out & get it RODDED OUT at a radiator shop. No sense putting new coolant in a dirty crap filled radiator
Radiators fine, I replaced it prior to finding the hg issue.
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