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  #51  
Old 02-01-2012, 05:57 AM
brains06 brains06 is offline
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I wanted to post an update so I wouldnt be a contributor to my one issue with this forum...not enough people post their results. It seems like most problems are chased and discussed but then the thread dies and no one posts the end result...soooo I digress..

I was able to put everything back together and have had the truck running for some time now. I've also done an IAC valve and just replaced the upstream O2 sensor because it had me running in open loop constantly causing me to burn gas at about 8-10 mpg. Hopefully this solves my fuel issue and I can move on to my ball joints. Not sure about doing that project myself but we'll see.

Jay
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  #52  
Old 02-01-2012, 09:27 AM
luckydog luckydog is offline
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Ball joints on a 2wd aren't so bad to do. If the A-ARM bushings are in good shape all you need is a good air hammer with a punch and chisel. A good drill might come in handy as well. Sometimes the rivets can be a real pain . Then just get it aligned.
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  #53  
Old 02-01-2012, 12:09 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brains06 View Post
I wanted to post an update so I wouldnt be a contributor to my one issue with this forum...not enough people post their results. It seems like most problems are chased and discussed but then the thread dies and no one posts the end result...soooo I digress..

I was able to put everything back together and have had the truck running for some time now. I've also done an IAC valve and just replaced the upstream O2 sensor because it had me running in open loop constantly causing me to burn gas at about 8-10 mpg. Hopefully this solves my fuel issue and I can move on to my ball joints. Not sure about doing that project myself but we'll see.

Jay
Good to hear it's all working, I had to replace my temp sensor cause I too wasn't getting out of open loop. So far I rebuilt my transmission, replaced my fuel pump, along with a ton of other things.

Ball joints are pretty easy like the other guy said, it's very easy when you have shock suspension. I have to replace mine soon as well 130K miles on them with a busted boot. But, when the time comes I'll replace the upper control arms cause they're rusted pretty bad and then just replace the lower joints. If you need help you know I'm always here!
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  #54  
Old 02-03-2012, 12:27 AM
brains06 brains06 is offline
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Well I'm gonna look into what the job takes and see if I wanna do it or pay someone. Cant have a wheel falling off on me on the way to work lol. So am I correct in assuming that if its the uppers I can just replace the control arm?
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  #55  
Old 02-03-2012, 11:50 AM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Originally Posted by brains06 View Post
Well I'm gonna look into what the job takes and see if I wanna do it or pay someone. Cant have a wheel falling off on me on the way to work lol. So am I correct in assuming that if its the uppers I can just replace the control arm?
You won't have to worry about it falling off, if you can rebuild an engine then you can replace ball joints. I had to remove my spindles and coil springs to remove some seized broken shock absorber bolts, it took some time and I have to improvise many home made tools mainly to keep spring tension and then slowly release the tension, used a floor jack. But as long as you torque everything to spec and put the king or cotter pins in then it's safe. It actually may be cheaper to replace the control arm's because most aftermarket arms come with the ball joints. I only am relacing my uppers because the mounting hardware is rusted out.
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