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  #1  
Old 06-02-2011, 08:01 PM
panhead's Avatar
panhead panhead is offline
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Default Misfire...Issues

1996 Dodge ram 2500 4x4 5.9L V8 gasser

- cap, ignition coil, wires and dis. rotor a little over a year ago (all from Mopar)
- factory type Champion plugs 50 miles ago
- 2 new Mopar fuel injectors 50 miles ago
- O2 sensors were replace about a year ago


I get a flashing check engine light, code 43 which is - Open or short in number # coil circuit. Indicates that the ignition coil's peak primary circuit current is not achieved with the maximum dwell time. 8 and 6 misfire, plugs are black. The rest are fine. Recently replace 8 and 6 injectors, they aren't the problem. Smells raw fuel.

All happen after I wanted to back it out onto the street after giving it a good wash. Earlier in the day I ran to auto parts store to fix my Neon, truck ran fine. Lately, my Neon has been my parts runner.

I am thinking it is the PCM (fuel injector driver) because it's the only thing that controls the injectors. Why did I think it was the injectors? The 2 previous injectors that were in, I unplugged them and still had a misfire. Disconnected the others and you can tell the different tone.



Any input is helpful. If its the iginition coil then why aren't the other cylinders misfiring?
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Last edited by panhead; 06-02-2011 at 08:46 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-02-2011, 08:05 PM
ramvan2500's Avatar
ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead View Post
1996 Dodge ram 2500 4x4 5.9L V8 gasser

- cap, ignition coil, wires and dis. rotor a little over a year ago (all from Mopar)
- factory type Champion plugs 50 miles ago
- 2 new Mopar fuel injectors 50 miles ago
- O2 injectors were replace about a year ago


I get a flashing check engine light, code 43 which is - Open or short in number # coil circuit. Indicates that the ignition coil's peak primary circuit current is not achieved with the maximum dwell time. 8 and 6 misfire, plugs are black. The rest are fine. Recently replace 8 and 6 injectors, they aren't the problem. Smells raw fuel.

All happen after I wanted to back it out onto the street after giving it a good wash. Earlier in the day I ran to auto parts store to fix my Neon, truck ran fine. Lately, my Neon has been my parts runner.

I am thinking it is the PCM (fuel injector driver) because it's the only thing that controls the injectors. Why did I think it was the injectors? The 2 previous injectors that were in, I unplugged them and still had a misfire. Disconnected the others and you can tell the different tone.



Any input is helpful. If its the iginition coil then why aren't the other cylinders misfiring?
The ignition coil is controlled by the ECM. Anyways I think it is your ECM, Is the truck even misfiring at all? Or is the computer just saying that!
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  #3  
Old 06-02-2011, 08:08 PM
panhead's Avatar
panhead panhead is offline
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Rep:103
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I have a misfire on 8 and 6 and the computer is also telling me I have a misfire!
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  #4  
Old 06-02-2011, 08:10 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead View Post
I have a misfire on 8 and 6 and the computer is also telling me I have a misfire!
Doesn't matter what the computer is telling you, if a ECM is broke it going to give you false crap. You confirming the misfire by the sound of the exhaust?
Of course I will help you diagnose the problem more then just a ecm and some sound.
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  #5  
Old 06-02-2011, 08:26 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead View Post
I have a misfire on 8 and 6 and the computer is also telling me I have a misfire!
Well if you aren't going to answer me then you're just gonna wait till someone else picks up the thread. Be warned they are all gonna say something like oh need new rotor, oh cap is bad, blah blah blah
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:38 PM
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panhead panhead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
Well if you aren't going to answer me then you're just gonna wait till someone else picks up the thread. Be warned they are all gonna say something like oh need new rotor, oh cap is bad, blah blah blah
Wow, I went to have a good meal...


Anyways, i'm hearing by the tone of the exhaust...
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  #7  
Old 06-02-2011, 08:49 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead View Post
Wow, I went to have a good meal...


Anyways, i'm hearing by the tone of the exhaust...
Who eats dinner at 8... What ya eat? Hope it was good!
Anyways you can tell by exhaust good ok these are some things you're going to want to do in order to rule out as much as possible before we boil down to a faulty ECM which if it is a faulty one you won't have a problem finding one at a junk yard in PA. Too many yards up their lol. Anyways get yourself a vacuum gauge and do a vacuum test this can help you aid in problems with the heads, intake, timing issues, etc... Then you need a fuel pressure gauge, what you need to do is release pressure from the fuel rail you can find the connector on the left side of the engine (side were the starter is) Then hook up the gauge and turn the ignition key to on position the needle should increase, then what you want to do is apply 12V to the fuel injector that is bad and the needle should drop rapidly, of course you should test the resistance of the injector first by that's obvious so back on track. Then if the injectors test OK we can move on to the wiring harness, sometimes then stupid little rats find their way in our dog houses or hoods and end up chewing on our main engine harness, them rat bastards... So what you want to do if check the wiring by eye for any cuts or damage (I was pulling a misfire code and come to find out little rat ate my wire away) If their is still no damage then disconnect the harness from the computer and then find the wires that match to the fault cylinder. Then either run a diode test or take a 1.5V battery and connect the + to one end of the wire and at the other end hook up your + volt meter terminal and then connect the - to the - of the battery. This will help you with finding fault in the wire. You could just do a resistance test but resistance increases only as the wire length increases and the wire I don't think it long enough. Anyways try all that and if it all checks out and the timing is fine etc then the ECM could be faulty. If the truck is 1995 or before you need a DRB2 scan tool if it's 1996 you can use a OBD tool.
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  #8  
Old 06-02-2011, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead View Post
Wow, I went to have a good meal...


Anyways, i'm hearing by the tone of the exhaust...
Forgot in my last post if you want to get really diagnosticy like myself buy yourself a oscilloscope and scope the PWM signal from the ECM.
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:10 AM
shak01 shak01 is offline
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Take a look at this TSB... some of your symptoms are discussed:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm

Also you said: "happen(ed) after I wanted to back it out onto the street after giving it a good wash"
Did you wash the engine?
wet plugs, wires, cap coil ? then started engine before it dried out?
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  #10  
Old 06-05-2011, 10:43 AM
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Did not wash the engine bay. I did find the culprit though. The distributor rotor had heat spots on it and the cap was shorted out. So everytime it went to fire a certain cylinder, it fired others. Both are from Mopar and are within a year old. After working on vehicles since 18, never seen nothing like it.
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