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Heating & Cooling 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Heating & Cooling Problems and Questions.


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  #21  
Old 07-21-2011, 02:04 AM
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I know of some of the parts, a new dryer runs around $45 at Oreillys and they have the assortment of those green rubber o-rings, then the orifices I have no idea where they go...lol and I know there is a special tool to undo the lines but have no idea how to use it as well as the manifold. I know the ac doesnt get real cold as it should but it works enough to get me by so I know it needs a good vac and probly some real maintenance since it didnt work when I got it and started working when I added the can of leak/dye/oil... and topped it off with 134a. The can comes with a guage on it and the needle is in the filled marks. There is a guy that is local that will do the repairs cheap $60 for evac and fill + parts so I plan to have it done right soon, just getting the money up is the issue till then. Hopefully have it done in another week since I dont want to ruin anything. If I ever come to florida ( I have family there ) It would be great to meet and say Hi.
45 seems expensive, I mean you could get them for as cheap as 25 bucks.

Anyways, their aren't really any special tools to remove the lines, everything is either bolted or is connected via a fitting.
Anyways stay away from stop leaks and boosters and crap like that because it is a contaminant and will require the replacement of numerous parts. If their is a leak don't be cheap because a stitch in time saves nine.

Don't need to worry about the orifices you can find them at any government building :P If you do make it to florida it would be very nice to meet you but be warned it's been getting very hot and humid, unlucky me fixes his A/C to not use it cause it uses to much gas. But it's alright.

Anyways I gave you a instructions on how to do everything from using the manifold to everything, it's safe and a DIY can do it. If I can do it anyone can do it. And it's good to know to especially since everything has gotten to be expensive so it's the time to pinch and stretch every penny you can.

If you ever have any questions need help just ask me and I am more than happy to help.
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  #22  
Old 07-21-2011, 02:16 AM
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Well, on a better note, if I buy the stuff and DIM ( DIY ) then I can do more....lol Well, I will weigh it out. Question: I was told the dryer had to be replaced anytime it is serviced with a full evac because of moister in the system? Would the evac for an hour or longer actually remove any moister or should i just go ahead and replace all o-rings, dryer, orifices, evac and fill? I think my cost would still be manageable if i dont screw anything up????
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  #23  
Old 07-21-2011, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
I know of some of the parts, a new dryer runs around $45 at Oreillys and they have the assortment of those green rubber o-rings, then the orifices I have no idea where they go...lol and I know there is a special tool to undo the lines but have no idea how to use it as well as the manifold. I know the ac doesnt get real cold as it should but it works enough to get me by so I know it needs a good vac and probly some real maintenance since it didnt work when I got it and started working when I added the can of leak/dye/oil... and topped it off with 134a. The can comes with a guage on it and the needle is in the filled marks. There is a guy that is local that will do the repairs cheap $60 for evac and fill + parts so I plan to have it done right soon, just getting the money up is the issue till then. Hopefully have it done in another week since I dont want to ruin anything. If I ever come to florida ( I have family there ) It would be great to meet and say Hi.
Oh and almost forgot, the little gauge on those cans they sell are not good to go buy. For example, the can will say around 35 psi is filled system. however my van uses 3.75 Lbs of r134, now when all 3.75 lbs is in the system the low side pressure hits around 55 psi. So you cannot really go by them cheap cans things, every vehicles a/c size varies so it's not as simple as connect the can and call it a day. Be sides you can't really use those cans with the hoses to fill an a/c system, you want to do it right a manifold and some 12 oz cans will do fine. Anyways the lower the low side pressure generally the colder but again variables. When mine has the correct amount of refrigerant the A/C isn't as cold as when it has less. But I have a dual a/c system so the front is relative to the back a/c. It's complicated in my case, in your case it's simple.
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  #24  
Old 07-21-2011, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
Well, on a better note, if I buy the stuff and DIM ( DIY ) then I can do more....lol Well, I will weigh it out. Question: I was told the dryer had to be replaced anytime it is serviced with a full evac because of moister in the system? Would the evac for an hour or longer actually remove any moister or should i just go ahead and replace all o-rings, dryer, orifices, evac and fill? I think my cost would still be manageable if i dont screw anything up????
The evacuation will remove moister because the vacuum in the system would cause water to vaporize and then it would be sucked out. Basically when a high vacuum is created and is sustained it causes water to boil.

As for the drier it is generally wise to replace the drier however you don't have to everytime you do a repair. Generally every 6 years is best, by that time refrigerant has hit 50% of it's half life.

The o ring I recommend you replace them because chances are then never have been replaced but you might not have to because if the only leak is coming from that valve then you're fine and as long as you don't disturb anything else then it would be fine but once you loosen something with an old o-ring then that o-ring will need to be replaced.

Trust me it works out to be cheaper, I called around and visited some people I did work for and the prices were around 170 bucks, it cost me only 100 bucks in refrigerant and tools to do the job. I got the manifold for 40 bucks and the refrigerant cost me 50 bucks. big lots...

But best of all if you ever have to service your a/c system then it would only cost you refrigerant and o-rings as general service.

The vacuum pump cost me 100 bucks from harbor freight but I returned the pump the next day.

Trust me you will not screw up anything, it's a very easy thing. People try to make it seem hard but once you do it you will be like, what the hect are people talking about hard...
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  #25  
Old 07-21-2011, 02:28 AM
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Yeah, sometimes my air is colder other times it is cool? The guage shows about 55 psi and it is just a hit and miss with the same reading... but like you said, I really have no clue what Im doing but with the instructions you gave me I am willing to give it a shot in the dark. Thanks for all the helpful info/advice on the subject. A little funny story to share with you. I have a friend who is a licensed ac/heating guy now, but back in the days of high school he was a wanna be, well he offered to fix my buddy's ac on the monte carlo... well, R-12 didnt work very long....or should i say the compressor didnt like it....lol
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  #26  
Old 07-21-2011, 02:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
Well, on a better note, if I buy the stuff and DIM ( DIY ) then I can do more....lol Well, I will weigh it out. Question: I was told the dryer had to be replaced anytime it is serviced with a full evac because of moister in the system? Would the evac for an hour or longer actually remove any moister or should i just go ahead and replace all o-rings, dryer, orifices, evac and fill? I think my cost would still be manageable if i dont screw anything up????
Oh you won't find a orifice on a dodge, usually ford and gm. On dodge the expansion valve is an orifice.

Anyways your best bet is to begin by replace the two valves then do a vacuum and check to see if it leaks by the way I said before.

In some cases yes the continual vac will remove moisture from the drier but if the drier has never been replaced you might as well just do it while the system is opened because once you have all the new refrigerant in it would be a waste to let it all out to replace something as silly as a drier.

The only O-Rings I would replace would be any that connect to the drier. Everything else don't touch.
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  #27  
Old 07-21-2011, 02:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
Yeah, sometimes my air is colder other times it is cool? The guage shows about 55 psi and it is just a hit and miss with the same reading... but like you said, I really have no clue what Im doing but with the instructions you gave me I am willing to give it a shot in the dark. Thanks for all the helpful info/advice on the subject. A little funny story to share with you. I have a friend who is a licensed ac/heating guy now, but back in the days of high school he was a wanna be, well he offered to fix my buddy's ac on the monte carlo... well, R-12 didnt work very long....or should i say the compressor didnt like it....lol
Well when you deal with R12 which is illegal now but still used it comes down to the oil. If you convert r12 to 134a you have to basically be sure you get all the oil style r12 oil and replace it with the newer pag oil. The old r12 oils were natural the new pag is a synthetic oil.

When the A/C system looses some pressure the A/C will actually blow colder then it will blow hot as refrigerant is getting to low. The lower the pressure the colder to a certain point, with A/C systems it's a has to be perfect to much pressure and not as cold as it can be and to low it won't work. That's why one useful tool in the trade is a thermometer you find them next to the refrigerants usually lol....

If you do this all yourself just tell me when you get ready to and I'll will give you my phone number so if you get stuck need help even talk you through it over the phone then their ya go. I am always happy to help someone.
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  #28  
Old 07-21-2011, 02:37 AM
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ok, I do know the dryer is connected with these clip looking things and the lines have like flanges so i assume the flanges have the orings, I will take pictures tomorrow or even a short video to post so you can see everything. It is all in the open so its easy to access everything. This is my last post for the evening, Im off to bed. Thanks again for all your help and info on the subject.
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  #29  
Old 07-21-2011, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
ok, I do know the dryer is connected with these clip looking things and the lines have like flanges so i assume the flanges have the orings, I will take pictures tomorrow or even a short video to post so you can see everything. It is all in the open so its easy to access everything. This is my last post for the evening, Im off to bed. Thanks again for all your help and info on the subject.
if the drier is an old style which is one that is between the block style expansion valve and the low and high combination block style line then their isn't o-rings, if it's a newer style probably is then you will are likely to find O-rings where the drier is connected. Anyways becareful around 134a, though not harmful it is less dense then air so you can actually die of asphixation.

Good night.
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  #30  
Old 07-21-2011, 08:32 AM
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Here is that video, I started at the firewall/dryer, followed the line to the assumed low pressure side ( small valve/schrader?) to the coil, then followed the hoses to the compressor ( assumed high side/ large valve? ) and back to the dryer ( and the connectors ) cant see anything inside as we all know the coil is inside an enclosed encasement with the fan and all the good stuff that controls the airflow...

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