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Heating & Cooling 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Heating & Cooling Problems and Questions.


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  #31  
Old 07-21-2011, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
Here is that video, I started at the firewall/dryer, followed the line to the assumed low pressure side ( small valve/schrader?) to the coil, then followed the hoses to the compressor ( assumed high side/ large valve? ) and back to the dryer ( and the connectors ) cant see anything inside as we all know the coil is inside an enclosed encasement with the fan and all the good stuff that controls the airflow...

Well I think it's time you do replace that drier, iot looks as if it's the original. Autozone has them for I think 25 bucks. But eitherway you only have to replace them once in a while so thats not to bad. I do believe that this one is O-Ring sealed also. Just be sure to relieve system pressure before you do any repairs to avoid injury.
The only coil you will be able to see is the condenser.
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  #32  
Old 07-21-2011, 03:51 PM
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I went by the only Harbor freight I knew of near the city and its gone...dang it...lol
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  #33  
Old 07-21-2011, 03:55 PM
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I went by the only Harbor freight I knew of near the city and its gone...dang it...lol
I hate to say it but thats not good that one of those closed down, that just shows how the economy is doing. Anyways well if you can't get one their your only other bet is to just buy one from their website and usually they have 10% off cupons and stuff and 15% 15NOW is the code. That or the autozone has them but they're like 60 bucks. You could try ebay too, actually I saw on ebay a gauge and pump for 120 bucks.
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  #34  
Old 07-21-2011, 09:40 PM
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I did look at their website and there is a few further out... seen a cheap pump for like $20... anyways I did find a cap for the low side and it seals the leak for the time being, also found out I wasnt adding enough 134a ( calls for 34oz. or 55 psi ) so I added and could only get to 45psi ? The air is cooler and the thermometer is showing 58 degrees but I dont know if its supposed to get colder or not ( checked while filling at idle )
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  #35  
Old 07-22-2011, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
I did look at their website and there is a few further out... seen a cheap pump for like $20... anyways I did find a cap for the low side and it seals the leak for the time being, also found out I wasnt adding enough 134a ( calls for 34oz. or 55 psi ) so I added and could only get to 45psi ? The air is cooler and the thermometer is showing 58 degrees but I dont know if its supposed to get colder or not ( checked while filling at idle )
Well the pump that is like 20 bucks isn't efficient enough though it works it doesn't pull a vac quite as well as a real 2.5CFM pump for example, you also need to hold vacuum in order to vaporize the water. Anyways that 20 dollar pump requires you to have compressed air.

It's ok if you don't add enough refrigerant because like I said before systems in cars and trucks will actually run colder when their is less refrigerant but at one point it will be to low and then it will blow hot air. Anyways what you do is you get the refrigerant in their by holding the can upright when it feels empty turn it upside down this will allow whatever liquid refrigerant is left to enter the system though you're not suppose to put liquid refrigerant in the low side port it is ok in small doses. 58 Degrees isn't really that good generally the pressure goes hand in hand with a temperature, look for a r134a temperature chart this will give you a read out of a pressure and the temp it corresponds to.

Anyways just get a manifold, pump, can tap, 3 cans of R134a, some O-Rings a new valve and a new drier and then you will have a new A/C system.

And once again stay away from any stop leak those contaminate the system and sometimes require you to replace just about everything. Stop leaks are for when you have a leaky O-Ring seal, how it works is it makes the rubber expand however when that happens it makes the rubber very brittle.
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  #36  
Old 07-22-2011, 08:04 AM
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Ok. I did let some 134 out using and old fill tube/connector into a plastic bottle, the air just got warm so I was like ok, its not over filled or too much 134.... Then I started adding the 134 and it got colder but it wouldnt take much so I gave up for the night, so tonight or tomorrow I will be running around and I will see if it gets colder or not driving which I assume it should since the compressor will be running faster longer, then try to add some more later if needed. It will probly be a week or so before I can buy everything needed as I got to get my tierods replaced before one breaks ( they are severely worn as well as my tires are dry rotted but found a nice set I am hoping to get soon)
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  #37  
Old 07-22-2011, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
Ok. I did let some 134 out using and old fill tube/connector into a plastic bottle, the air just got warm so I was like ok, its not over filled or too much 134.... Then I started adding the 134 and it got colder but it wouldnt take much so I gave up for the night, so tonight or tomorrow I will be running around and I will see if it gets colder or not driving which I assume it should since the compressor will be running faster longer, then try to add some more later if needed. It will probly be a week or so before I can buy everything needed as I got to get my tierods replaced before one breaks ( they are severely worn as well as my tires are dry rotted but found a nice set I am hoping to get soon)
I'm in a similar situation, I also need 4 new tires cause mine are all dry rot cause the vehicle I got was sitting and didn't move an inch for 6 years and the tires at that point were already worn, I had one tire pop from the cracks and the rest are getting their. Anyways enough of that lol....


When you let some refrigerant out you should do it with a manifold with the car running on max ac because when it's on max ac the liquid refrigerant will become gas so you will actually bleed a bit better and safer versus just letting it out. You also need the manifold to regulate the flow because what you don't want getting into the system is air. Anyways pressure is different at running then off. But I do notice usually around 34 psi is when it's really cold, of course if you replace many parts of the system and everything it will blow even colder but it comes down to budget if that, but basically replacing the simple parts like drier and doing a evac and getting only refrigerant in will really be best.

Anyways I have a vehicle that when it has to correct amount of refrigerant in exactly 6 cans it actually is hotter then when I have like 4 cans.
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  #38  
Old 07-22-2011, 09:48 PM
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It was running and was just vapor out of the hose, that bottle felt really good out in that heat..lol Well its something like 119 degree heat index here and Hope to change out all the tie rod components next week so I hope we get some cooler weather soon anyways...geez this heat is miserable !!!!
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  #39  
Old 07-23-2011, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonocativo View Post
It was running and was just vapor out of the hose, that bottle felt really good out in that heat..lol Well its something like 119 degree heat index here and Hope to change out all the tie rod components next week so I hope we get some cooler weather soon anyways...geez this heat is miserable !!!!
Trust me I know about the heat, I live in the sub-tropics. Anyways after you get everything squared away and you're ready to fix the A/C contact me and I'll set you up.
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  #40  
Old 07-23-2011, 11:36 AM
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What area of Florida are you in? I got 2 cousins in Florida, One lives in West Palm Beach and the other in Daytona, My cousin in West Palm Beach is supposed to take me on an airboat ride whenever I get down there and go Alligator hunting. I love Cajun Alligator meat as well as Smoked Rattle Snake meat... Cant get it up here.
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