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  #11  
Old 07-14-2011, 03:09 PM
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ramvan2500 ramvan2500 is offline
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I tried to adjust my bands somewhat this past weekend. I just tried the front because i wanted to see if i could do that one before i change my fluid and did the adjustment in there. Anyways, i loosened the locking nut and backed it off about 5 turns. Then put in my torx and started trying to screw it in until it stopped on the 72in lbs like the instructions say. And the adjustment screw never stops going in it seems. Should i have just kept screwing or what am i doing wrong? I just backed it out until it was where i thought it was when i started. Trucks driving fine, but i wanted to get this perfect before i try to do the one inside the trans pan. Thanks
You can only be so perfect with adjustments. Anyways you do exactly as the instructions say no matter what.
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  #12  
Old 07-19-2011, 12:17 AM
JonEstey JonEstey is offline
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Default Transmission Acting funny

Ok guys, I am offically asking for help. I have done a bit of reading over the last week and I am more confused today than when I started. Here is the 411.

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L(318) V8 4x4 with the Sport package. I believe I have the 46RE Automatic Transmission, however that is where the confusion begins. Anyway. I bought the truck last year. Sience I have had it the OD off light would kick on when I drove up hill for an extended period of time. Once the Trans Temp light came on. I began to have multiple misfire codes shortly after so I really didnt pay much attention to the OD off light, seeing I generally drive on flat land so really wasnt a daily reminder. Well about 3 months ago I did a transmission fluid and filter change. I used ATF+3 as per the repair manual. Everything is fine. about 2 months ago when I drove the truck on the highway for an extented amout of time the OD off light would kick on. I couldnt make it 20 miles on the freeway without the OD kicking off. then with in a week I lost OD all together and 3rd gear was a questionable action. I drove it 20 miles to a transmission shop. They ran a diagnosis on it and didnt tell me anything outside of 350 to 400 to change out some silonoid and fluid change. When they drop the oil pan if they find a bunch of metal then it would be a rebuild for around 1800. Ok I know ify at best but I didnt pay for the diagnostic. Well I did another fluid change, this time ATF+4 per some online info. I tried to adjust the bands but ran into the sameproblem the last guy. I adjusted the one on the outside and in just kept going in and not reaching 72inlbs. Well I go it there finally and lost reverse. I backed it back out and got reverse back. Today I have no 3rd or OD. I've ran a few test drives and I dont have 2nd either after she warms up. The only time I drive her is twice for road test in the last 3 weeks. HELP. Please someone send me in the right direction. I'm trying to save as much money as possible but I need my truck back. Thank you for reading this lengthly post. Oh yhea I did get a P0740 code, but no check engine light. And I know that bad boy works.
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2011, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JonEstey View Post
Ok guys, I am offically asking for help. I have done a bit of reading over the last week and I am more confused today than when I started. Here is the 411.

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L(318) V8 4x4 with the Sport package. I believe I have the 46RE Automatic Transmission, however that is where the confusion begins. Anyway. I bought the truck last year. Sience I have had it the OD off light would kick on when I drove up hill for an extended period of time. Once the Trans Temp light came on. I began to have multiple misfire codes shortly after so I really didnt pay much attention to the OD off light, seeing I generally drive on flat land so really wasnt a daily reminder. Well about 3 months ago I did a transmission fluid and filter change. I used ATF+3 as per the repair manual. Everything is fine. about 2 months ago when I drove the truck on the highway for an extented amout of time the OD off light would kick on. I couldnt make it 20 miles on the freeway without the OD kicking off. then with in a week I lost OD all together and 3rd gear was a questionable action. I drove it 20 miles to a transmission shop. They ran a diagnosis on it and didnt tell me anything outside of 350 to 400 to change out some silonoid and fluid change. When they drop the oil pan if they find a bunch of metal then it would be a rebuild for around 1800. Ok I know ify at best but I didnt pay for the diagnostic. Well I did another fluid change, this time ATF+4 per some online info. I tried to adjust the bands but ran into the sameproblem the last guy. I adjusted the one on the outside and in just kept going in and not reaching 72inlbs. Well I go it there finally and lost reverse. I backed it back out and got reverse back. Today I have no 3rd or OD. I've ran a few test drives and I dont have 2nd either after she warms up. The only time I drive her is twice for road test in the last 3 weeks. HELP. Please someone send me in the right direction. I'm trying to save as much money as possible but I need my truck back. Thank you for reading this lengthly post. Oh yhea I did get a P0740 code, but no check engine light. And I know that bad boy works.
If you adjusting the bands like you're suppose to and you're loosing a gear or two then your bands need to be replaced (rebuild). Now you must be 100% certain that the transmission is a 46 series cause if it's not then you're torquing everything wrong, each transmission comes with it's own set of instructions.

Oh Btw I can get a transmission for 100 bucks.

If you found metal shavings not fine ground but chunks then your transmission is as good as gone. ATF+4 is a better Sub for ATF+3, ATF4 replaced ATF3.

The reverse drum is active all the time except when it's in reverse, so you might have over tightened the band. You need to use a really precise torque wrench, and have to be as precise as you can be cause if a band is to tight then you will have probably shifting in and out of gear and you will also wear the transmission quicker, if a band is too loose then the vehicle won't move, it will slip slip slip. If you want I think I already did though I can send you the rebuild service manual it will show and tell you how to do the band adjustments and everything, PM me your email address and I will be more than happy to give you a copy. I think I did but again my memory is fuzzy as I give the manual often.

Keep me updated please
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  #14  
Old 07-19-2011, 01:44 AM
JonEstey JonEstey is offline
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Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
If you adjusting the bands like you're suppose to and you're loosing a gear or two then your bands need to be replaced (rebuild). Now you must be 100% certain that the transmission is a 46 series cause if it's not then you're torquing everything wrong, each transmission comes with it's own set of instructions.

Oh Btw I can get a transmission for 100 bucks.

If you found metal shavings not fine ground but chunks then your transmission is as good as gone. ATF+4 is a better Sub for ATF+3, ATF4 replaced ATF3.

The reverse drum is active all the time except when it's in reverse, so you might have over tightened the band. You need to use a really precise torque wrench, and have to be as precise as you can be cause if a band is to tight then you will have probably shifting in and out of gear and you will also wear the transmission quicker, if a band is too loose then the vehicle won't move, it will slip slip slip. If you want I think I already did though I can send you the rebuild service manual it will show and tell you how to do the band adjustments and everything, PM me your email address and I will be more than happy to give you a copy. I think I did but again my memory is fuzzy as I give the manual often.

Keep me updated please
Id love a copy thanks. However I have no idea how to PM you. I'm pretty sure its the 46re. From everthing I gathered online. the 46re was the only transmission offered in the v8's in 99. the rh was phased out in 96 and the 47's were only offered in the v10 and dissels. All tho the repair manual differs a bit. the band under the pan is like a 1/4" and not the t30 like the
outside band. I only had a fine metal powder, which I wasn't sure about until you clerified that for me last week.
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  #15  
Old 07-19-2011, 01:50 AM
JonEstey JonEstey is offline
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Oh figured out the pm thing but I need to have atleast 25 post before I can PM apparntly
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  #16  
Old 07-19-2011, 03:22 PM
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Oh figured out the pm thing but I need to have atleast 25 post before I can PM apparntly
It's ok, well send me an email and I'll reply with the manual attached. My email is frankcovending@gmail.com


Yes powdered metal is normal. Most certainly the size may differ for the two different bands. Anyways the manual I will send you will make everything crystal clear. The 46 series was actually only used for a short period of time I believe it was used for only 4 year. Now the 46 series is an A518 transmission so some vehicles do actually have the 46 series but they are recorded on the build sheet as an A518 so you can use the same transmission from lets say a Dakota that is an A518 and use it in a vehicle that is a 46RH/E The case on the 46rh 46re is an A518 case however their was of course different casting numbers but they share the same shape things might be a little different like the cooler line fitting threads etc... Anyways the 46 series transmission is pretty much the best thats why it was only used for a short time. The 46RH I believe is much better than the re however I have heard the RE to be faster with shifting but I always say with the RH no electronics only a solenoid and hydraulic is much more powerful then electronic solenoids. The innerds are the same in both transmissions only that the valve bodies differ one has balls and springs that open at a certain pressure and one has electronic valves to open.

Anyways send me an email tonight and I'll send you the manual same day.
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  #17  
Old 07-21-2011, 12:18 AM
JonEstey JonEstey is offline
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Originally Posted by ramvan2500 View Post
It's ok, well send me an email and I'll reply with the manual attached. My email is frankcovending@gmail.com


Yes powdered metal is normal. Most certainly the size may differ for the two different bands. Anyways the manual I will send you will make everything crystal clear. The 46 series was actually only used for a short period of time I believe it was used for only 4 year. Now the 46 series is an A518 transmission so some vehicles do actually have the 46 series but they are recorded on the build sheet as an A518 so you can use the same transmission from lets say a Dakota that is an A518 and use it in a vehicle that is a 46RH/E The case on the 46rh 46re is an A518 case however their was of course different casting numbers but they share the same shape things might be a little different like the cooler line fitting threads etc... Anyways the 46 series transmission is pretty much the best thats why it was only used for a short time. The 46RH I believe is much better than the re however I have heard the RE to be faster with shifting but I always say with the RH no electronics only a solenoid and hydraulic is much more powerful then electronic solenoids. The innerds are the same in both transmissions only that the valve bodies differ one has balls and springs that open at a certain pressure and one has electronic valves to open.

Anyways send me an email tonight and I'll send you the manual same day.
Thanks for all the great info. JonathanEstey@gmail.com. Can't PM yet
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  #18  
Old 07-21-2011, 12:42 AM
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Thanks for all the great info. JonathanEstey@gmail.com. Can't PM yet
Just sent you the manual. Tell me if you got it.
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  #19  
Old 07-26-2011, 01:15 PM
trab trab is offline
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I took mine to the trans shop today to, so ill post up whatever they find.
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  #20  
Old 07-26-2011, 04:11 PM
trab trab is offline
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Hey guys just heard back and they are saying that my valve body needs to be replaced. They wanna charge 780 to do that so i told them to not touch it. So i guess ill replace it myself if it isnt that big of a hassle.
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