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  #1  
Old 02-10-2015, 02:15 PM
Gniccum Gniccum is offline
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Default Burning oil

I have a 2007 dodge ram 1500 4.7L V8 FFV. 136k miles. Oil changes every 3k, spark plugs were done at 135k. New air filter, new PCV valve, throttle body cleaned at 135k also. So i've been noticing my truck running rough so I check the oil and it's 4 quarts low, had just done an oil change 1500 miles prior. So i go ahead and add the oil it needs. After playing close attention for 3 weeks, I notice i'm burning oil (about 1 quart every tank) If I didn't doctor how much oil was in the motor it'd be dry by the time I'm due for an oil change. I was told by a mechanic friend that could be possible PCV valve, I check and it's bad (replaced 135k) Continues to burn oil. I try a quart of lucas oil stabilizer due to rough running and add a heavier weight 10w-20 m1 full synthetic high mileage. Still burning oil. I ask another mechanic about the plenum gasket, told that 1st gen 4.7L don't have them as the intake is a one plastic piece. I also have white smoke coming from my tailpipe after i changed the PCV valve, smells sweet like coolant. I'm mechanically inclined, so shoot me what you think it is. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-10-2015, 02:39 PM
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Do you do your own oil changes? I'm curious because this sounds like it began suddenly.

White smoke is an indication that coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. I would want to confirm this with a chemical test for combustion gasses in the coolant or a cylinder leakage test. I would also recommend removing a valve cover and checking for accumulated sludge which could impair oil drain back and cause it to enter the PCV system and get burned in the cylinders. Other possible causes are worn valve guides/seals, oil control rings, or cylinder condition.
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
Do you do your own oil changes? I'm curious because this sounds like it began suddenly.

White smoke is an indication that coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. I would want to confirm this with a chemical test for combustion gasses in the coolant or a cylinder leakage test. I would also recommend removing a valve cover and checking for accumulated sludge which could impair oil drain back and cause it to enter the PCV system and get burned in the cylinders. Other possible causes are worn valve guides/seals, oil control rings, or cylinder condition.


The first oil change was serviced at a toyota dealership since that's where my mother in law works and it was free. They used conventional 5w-20. I've changed over to mobile1 full synthetic 5w-20. I plan on doing a wet and dry compression test this weekend to see if it's a head gasket. I can check a valve cover also this weekend after doing the compression test. The PCV I removed when I got the truck was extremely worn and would barely rattle. If I have a bad test on the compression test this weekend I'll most likely replace the head gasket(s) that are bad. Hopefully just one. If the valve covers have accumulated sludge because the previous PCV valve was bad, how would you recommend cleaning them? A solvent tank?
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:47 AM
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If the heads are going to be off, I would have the cleaned by a machine shop with a jet wash, steam or something similar. Keep in mind that a compression test won't be able to locate a potential problem with the oil control rings.
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
If the heads are going to be off, I would have the cleaned by a machine shop with a jet wash, steam or something similar. Keep in mind that a compression test won't be able to locate a potential problem with the oil control rings.


I figured I'd start with one possibility and troubleshoot until I find the problem. Dry and wet compression test for head gaskets. I'll clean the valve covers (i've heard a lot about sludge build up on these 4.7L) How would i check for bad oil control rings? I'm pretty handy and can do almost anything as long as I have a manual and time.
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:33 AM
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The only way to check for a stuck oil control ring is to remove the piston.
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
If the heads are going to be off, I would have the cleaned by a machine shop with a jet wash, steam or something similar. Keep in mind that a compression test won't be able to locate a potential problem with the oil control rings.


I figured I'd start with one possibility and troubleshoot until I find the problem. Dry and wet compression test for head gaskets. I'll clean the valve covers (i've heard a lot about sludge build up on these 4.7L) How would i check for bad oil control rings? I'm pretty handy and can do almost anything as long as I have a manual and time.
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:36 AM
Gniccum Gniccum is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RamTech View Post
The only way to check for a stuck oil control ring is to remove the piston.

I'm just going to be doing a compression test this weekend and taking the valve covers off to clean them and get rid of sludge. How hard is it to remove the pistons to check them for stuck oil control rings?
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:49 AM
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Heads, timing chain cover, and oil pan all have to come off.
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:01 AM
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Alright. Thanks for all the info. This weekend I'll do the valve covers, compression (wet and dry) test. And if its a head gasket I'll replace it, if the compression test comes back positive I'll check the oil control rings. Also, I drove my truck yesterday about 20 minutes and when I got home the radiator cap wasn't even warm. Is that odd? The coolant reservoir is full and has been for awhile, not noticing any loss of coolant. Just the burning oil, white smoke with sweet smell at start up, and the 45mph hesitation but I think that's just an egr valve.
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