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  #11  
Old 08-10-2011, 12:01 AM
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brad12kx brad12kx is offline
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The Alpine sub appears to be rather 'efficient', so don't expect the amp to be anything exciting.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2011, 07:31 PM
Lie2me Lie2me is offline
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your best bet is to do what I did in my 2010 RC....use a LOC(line out converter) and tap into the rear door speakers, then just add an amp, box, and sub.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:31 PM
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^^^ Did you have the Alpine upgrade?

I don't mean to differ with your statement, but with the Alpine upgrade, the front door speakers carry most of the lower frequencies, while the rear speakers have a severe cut in response down there.

Like I said, not wanting to disagree, just throwing that information out there for anyone else wanting to add a LOC - because I agree with what Lie2me did, love me some LOC to an amp connections. Easy and effective!
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
^^^ Did you have the Alpine upgrade?

I don't mean to differ with your statement, but with the Alpine upgrade, the front door speakers carry most of the lower frequencies, while the rear speakers have a severe cut in response down there.
No worries, from everything I read in multiple forums, the full signal should be the front doors, this was not true with my 2011 cc.....but I reserve the right to be wrong. This is part of the reason I was so confussed when I upgraded my speakers....Hella confussed when I couldn't get a good sounding signal out of my front doors.

I do have the alpine upgrade and my front doors were the ones that had the severe cut in sound. I replaced all the speakers in the truck with aftermarket jl/alpines. The dash sounded good, the rear 6x9s sounded DAMN GOOD and the front doors we relatively useless...this was before I did anything else to the system, just plugged in new speakers to the factory wiring. (As for the LOC, that was in my 2010 RC with non-alpine stereo)
Afterwards, I added the H/U, sub and 2 amps, completely bypassing the POS factory amp. I like the RBZ touch screen and the radio in general, so I am adding a summing sound processor(LC6i) and upgrading one of my older amps. Hopefully my LC6i is at the house and I can start rewiring this weekend. I also plan on using a spectrum analyzer on my amp outputs to make sure they are not clipping the signals and I have a good, solid transition between frequency coverage.

Last edited by Lie2me; 08-11-2011 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 08-11-2011, 02:42 AM
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Now THAT ^^^ is what I like to read. Very solid choice in equipment, you are definitely on the right path to helping clean up the nasty factory amplifier.
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Now THAT ^^^ is what I like to read. Very solid choice in equipment, you are definitely on the right path to helping clean up the nasty factory amplifier.
Thank you. I just wish I would have waited until I had all the equipment to do it right the first time. No biggie, its just my time is at an all time premium as of late. Hoping to slow things back down for a few months before the truck goes into storage for the next two years.
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:35 PM
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After looking at Factory 8'' sub today and taking the 6 screws loose the sub really does not want to pull up out of box giving resistance. Was thinking it would pull up and out then disconnect the wiring plug ins on the sub terminals. Any one removed the sub from the box that could shed some light on the subject? Afraid to pull too hard to get the sub out.
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:55 PM
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There is a screw on the underside of the box that goes into the magnet of the sub.
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:56 PM
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If you have all the screws out and it won't budge, they must have used some sealer. Try a razor knife under the spkr flange that sits on the face of the box and just run it all the way around under the flange.
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Old 08-21-2011, 05:05 PM
mtnbkr123 mtnbkr123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lie2me View Post
your best bet is to do what I did in my 2010 RC....use a LOC(line out converter) and tap into the rear door speakers, then just add an amp, box, and sub.
I was planning to remove the old sub and then use the old sub wiring -> LC2i -> new sub amp -> subs. Is that okay. Or does the old sub wiring need to be replaced?

When i replace the stock speakers, I'll add an LC6i for those then.

Any problems with this approach?

Thanks.
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