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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.2 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!


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  #11  
Old 08-31-2011, 06:14 PM
crip crip is offline
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in for more info as well, new to v8's and wanting more power from my 5.2. good to know about the heads, i read somewhere before that the 360 heads have larger runners or ports. i would have been p.o'd if bought a set and they were the same as my 318 heads.
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2011, 08:14 PM
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in for more info as well, new to v8's and wanting more power from my 5.2. good to know about the heads, i read somewhere before that the 360 heads have larger runners or ports. i would have been p.o'd if bought a set and they were the same as my 318 heads.
I'm really not going to bother helping you out much more, not because of you but you get these people who have no certainty on the information like the guy about the 360 mag vs. 318 mag saying their are more differences then stroke even though I have the manufacture's engine spec sheets in front of my little face. The heads are the same, I rebuild magnum heads and they are the same, their were different casting's from different molds but the measurements are the same. But I'm not going to bother really saying much because I get sick of peoples rebuttals to everything I say. And some people say stuff and have no certainty in what they're saying. If you want make your life simple go to the local junk yard LKQ find a 360 and remove a head then go find the 318 and remove the head and compare. Some things are going to be different such as the lifters but the head's as cast items come from the same designed mold. Because of the larger stroke you can have a higher fuel mixture as far as volume, if you notice the compression ratios are the same...
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  #13  
Old 09-04-2011, 07:06 PM
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Agree'd with the above, I checked... figured a port polish on a less used head mite be better. I did find that TB and thank you, alot of good reviews on it. Anyone have an idea for a cam that will run with the stock heads with out to rough of an idel or MPG drop off? i've seen some on summit such as the comp cam's... alot of people have said they are nice
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  #14  
Old 09-04-2011, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Serrilion View Post
Agree'd with the above, I checked... figured a port polish on a less used head mite be better. I did find that TB and thank you, alot of good reviews on it. Anyone have an idea for a cam that will run with the stock heads with out to rough of an idel or MPG drop off? i've seen some on summit such as the comp cam's... alot of people have said they are nice
It wouldn't make a difference if the head is used less because you are going to rebuild the head, so depending on how you rebuild it meaning if you are replacing the valve seats or just going to re-seat the valves, also if you are going to replace the valve guides etc things of such nature. I do recommend you upgrade the springs, when you buy a comp cam something they will come with a kit of dual springs. Comp can make you a cam that will fit your needs as I am helping a buddy out on a custom job as well. All this engine work will give you better HP and Torque sure but it isn't going to improve MPG as you sacrifice one for the other, anyways. That engine work won't really make the truck any faster or help to much with 0-60 times maybe you can gain about half second to a second but you like many people don't think outside the box or well outside the engine. It's the gears that deliver that HP and Torque to the wheels, focus more on custom rebuilding your transmission, use bigger bands made of carbon kevlar, modify the valve body to lower shift overlap and aid in a firmer shift, and certain replace the crappy servo pistons and accumulator piston, them accumulator pistons were made of plastic and leak something horrid, change it out to a billet material such as Sonnax's. Another big improvement that will help with acceleration at speeds of 65 and more, is to well upgrade the kickdown band lever to the 5.1:1 which is used in the hemi, also upgrade the kickdown band strut. Their are carbon kevlar bands that are like 10% wider so you can have a better grip on the direct drum and having a 5.1:1 lever is going to really put pressure on the direct drum. But if you do mostly transmission work and differential work, increasing the axle ratio then you will have more of that hp and torque of the engine going to those wheels and to the pavement. If you do decide to take this approach be sure to install a transmission support system. Also make sure you have a good drive shaft, have a custom one made would be best else wise you will snap it in half.
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:24 PM
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LMAO... well I have the 4500 NV trans in my truck (5Speed Heavy Duty) so not auto bull**** problems lol, I also have a set of 3.92s in the rear that I just installed today, woke the truck up alot more than I expected. Thank you for the advice, I have been looking into a better transfure case as this truck is used for mudding not overall top end
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  #16  
Old 09-04-2011, 09:31 PM
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Oh and a side not, the 3.92 are for pavement driving, I'm thinking of doing a better driveshaft / gear ratio in the T Case as I've herd it helps alot going threw mud ect with an almost stock motor
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:10 PM
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LMAO... well I have the 4500 NV trans in my truck (5Speed Heavy Duty) so not auto bull**** problems lol, I also have a set of 3.92s in the rear that I just installed today, woke the truck up alot more than I expected. Thank you for the advice, I have been looking into a better transfure case as this truck is used for mudding not overall top end
Well it really doesn't matter what model transmission you have it matters what you have done to it. Obviously you have the gear principle down this saves me time. Since you aren't really interested in the X-mas tree and more into mudding then work more with the differential. The engine has the torque and HP as it is, it's just a matter of using it to it's fullest and thats why before I was going on about transmission this that and the other. But since you aren't racing then it's not as big a deal, the most modification for the transmission though is to upgrade the accumulator piston and to upgrade the forward band to a carbon kevlar that is 10% wider then the OEM, this ways you get a good grip in low gear. I'm just more to use informing others that are looking to improve on the track more then the mud lol but either way.
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  #18  
Old 09-04-2011, 10:28 PM
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still ether way, sound like some mods, the new driveshaft is coming in a few days so I see no reason not to drop the trans and see about up grading these parts if there not exensive. lmao
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  #19  
Old 09-05-2011, 01:00 AM
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Found another crazy idea... got the Cam from the 360, I was told it will bolt right into my 318, anyone know if this is true? sounds like fun to me!
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  #20  
Old 09-05-2011, 01:50 PM
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Found another crazy idea... got the Cam from the 360, I was told it will bolt right into my 318, anyone know if this is true? sounds like fun to me!
The 360 cam will fit into the 318, but you really aren't going to gain any HP and torque, their aren't really any parts you can swap from the 360 and put on the 318 to make the 318 any more powerful. If you want to make a 318 powerful you have to have a performance cam, or at the least you could just advance your timing a little. Honestly the engine has all the power you need stock. Anyways those transmission parts really aren't too expensive, the band is around 100-200 bucks I forgot exactly how much but it's between their for the carbon kevlar 10% upgrade. the accumulator piston made by sonnax will run you like 70 bucks. I am selecting parts that you would use in lower gear, thats why I'm pointing out a the forward band instead of the direct band because direct band is for 2nd and forward is for 1st gear, reverse.
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