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Towing 4th Gen Dodge Ram Towing Questions


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  #1  
Old 09-01-2011, 11:27 PM
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Default what does towing travel trailer should feel like??

Just got our Shasta Revere 21FBS LE today. What a pain to get the Reese Dual cam WD hooked up. Due to the huge A frame, angle just wasn't working out. Looks like they have it set up right but on the last chain link. Are your TT's A frames as thick as mine?
First tow ever, so not sure how it's supposed to feel like. The anti sway is not installed yet. Feels ok to tow, straight line but should i feel the truck pulling back and forth with trailer like tug of war? Or like someome giving gas and letting and giving gas and letting go. Not too pronounced bu feeling it. Is that normal?
Also, should i press the tow/haul button on dodge ram?

TT GVWR 7650
hitch weight 750
installed Reese Dual Cam HP - waiting on sway control part for install
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boubou View Post
Just got our Shasta Revere 21FBS LE today. What a pain to get the Reese Dual cam WD hooked up. Due to the huge A frame, angle just wasn't working out. Looks like they have it set up right but on the last chain link. Are your TT's A frames as thick as mine?
First tow ever, so not sure how it's supposed to feel like. The anti sway is not installed yet. Feels ok to tow, straight line but should i feel the truck pulling back and forth with trailer like tug of war? Or like someome giving gas and letting and giving gas and letting go. Not too pronounced bu feeling it. Is that normal?
Also, should i press the tow/haul button on dodge ram?

TT GVWR 7650
hitch weight 750
installed Reese Dual Cam HP - waiting on sway control part for install
The last chain link seems wrong. With my equalizer hitch I have it set with 7 links hanging leaving 4 links between the bar and the connection at the frame. Yes that feeling is normal however I reduced it drastically by tightening up or going another link tighter on the equalizer. Once I did that she hardly bounced at all.
I only run tow/haul mode in the hills, if I'm running on long flat stretches of highway I'll leave her alone. If you find she is hunting for a gear run in tow/haul.
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2011, 09:28 PM
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The ball was angled at 15 degrees as per instructions at first but we couldn't even get the bar up to the first link. So the angle was changed to accomodate for TT 6inch A frame
Both trailer and truck look really gpod, nice and straight.
The tech installing the hitch phoned Reese and they offered a different system to bolt on A frame but also said the chain on last link was ok with mu configuration. Problem is the chucking rocking horse motion while driving. I have the 800 lbs bars, and tongue weight is 750 lbs on trailer. What if i go to 1000 lbs? Any drawback from that?

Here is my set up
2012 Shast Revere 21 FBS LE (Forest River)
Hitch Weight 750 lbs.
Ship Weight 5,370 lbs.
GVWR 7,650 lbs.
2010 Ram 4X4 Quad Cab, HEMI,

P275/60R20 5.7L V8 (EZH) 545RFE (DGQ) AXLE RATIO: 3.55 GVWR: 6,700 PAYLOAD: 1,310 BASE WEIGHT: 5,362 FRONT: 3,113 REAR: 2,249 GAWR FRONT3,900 REAR 3,900 GCWR: 14,000 MAX TRAILER: 8,450
Class IV hitch 1045 lbs max tongue weight
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:30 PM
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And can i press that tow/haul button whenever i need to? While driving?
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:43 PM
erm
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Yes, use your Tow/Haul system when towing (where you have hills, mountains, up and down elevation changes) but you won't need it on a relatively flat tow.

The push/pull you are experiencing is caused by two things...bumps/dips in the road that unload then load the hitch bar as the trailer moves and the shifting of your transmission when in O/D.

The weight distribution hitch and anti-sway bar together will dampen the up and down load and unload action. Using Tow/Haul mode will cut down on the frequency of the transmission shifting in and out of full O/D.
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Old 09-02-2011, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADDOG View Post
Yes, use your Tow/Haul system when towing (where you have hills, mountains, up and down elevation changes) but you won't need it on a relatively flat tow.

The push/pull you are experiencing is caused by two things...bumps/dips in the road that unload then load the hitch bar as the trailer moves and the shifting of your transmission when in O/D.

The weight distribution hitch and anti-sway bar together will dampen the up and down load and unload action. Using Tow/Haul mode will cut down on the frequency of the transmission shifting in and out of full O/D.
Fantastic explanation now it makes sense
Do you think I should go for the 1000 lbs?

Thanks you all so much for your help you guys are THE Best
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:25 PM
erm
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It's better to go big. I like having extra capacity so going to a 1,000 # rating appeals to me.
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:19 PM
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What you're feeling is normal. I have a 30 foot 7000 trailer and it does the same thing - even in Tow/Haul.

I'd go with the 1200 lb bars - that's what I have and they work well.

I have 5 links from trunion to hook - but as long as the bars are parallel to the trailer frame when loaded it will be fine.
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:26 PM
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The bars are parallel to the frame and the chains are vertically parallel to the ground
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Netman66 View Post
What you're feeling is normal. I have a 30 foot 7000 trailer and it does the same thing - even in Tow/Haul.

I'd go with the 1200 lb bars - that's what I have and they work well.

I have 5 links from trunion to hook - but as long as the bars are parallel to the trailer frame when loaded it will be fine.
is there a downside to using the 1200 lbs bars compared to the 800?
I have a hard time connecting the 800 to the very first link because the trailer A frame is 6 inch and the hitch mount is underneath so it makes for a much longer space between the bar to the hook thingy.
Would I be able to use the 1200 lbs if it's stiffer?
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