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Electrical 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #11  
Old 09-19-2011, 11:15 AM
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Should that wire be hooked up somewhere? I can't find a place where it should go.

Someone had mentioned that I should cut the larger, black ground wire from the harness and then attach the two ends of that cut wire directly to the frame rail and that should take care of my tails lighting issue. Do ya think that is my solution?

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  #12  
Old 09-19-2011, 12:38 PM
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check out my prev post about stop light and back up light switch
"dadzdodge" replied with a excellant explain on the nuetral safety switch,"nss"
thats "probably-maybe" the prob
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  #13  
Old 09-19-2011, 12:56 PM
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Possibly, however my reverse lights DO come on. It's almost like the voltage is back-feeding through the reverse lights when the right turn signal is activated.
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2011, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractorerik View Post
Should that wire be hooked up somewhere? I can't find a place where it should go.

Someone had mentioned that I should cut the larger, black ground wire from the harness and then attach the two ends of that cut wire directly to the frame rail and that should take care of my tails lighting issue. Do ya think that is my solution?

The CHMSL wire is just there in case you 'need' and direct brake light signal. There is no need to connect it to anything unless you need this feature. It is good practice to make sure this wire is well insulated, as attaching it to ground would short out the brake lights, and likely cause some undesirable problems.

As for cutting the ground wire(s) and attaching to a new frame spot....I am not a proponent of doing that except as a last resort. That is not fixing the problem, but rather working around it.

I think the best thing to do right know, is focus on the right side reverse light. Once the problem with it has been solved, the other issues may be solved as well.

Did you ever find that splice with 7 black wires?
It would be so nice to get a voltage reading at that point.
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  #15  
Old 09-20-2011, 12:22 AM
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Yes, I sure did. Where should I test the voltages on those and which wires need a reading?

Also, I figured out why I didn't have operational mirrors or interior lights. The 10A IOD fuse in the fuse panel was blown. Replaced it and now mirrors and lights work again.
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:07 AM
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The splice point should have all 7 wires tied together. I'm interested in the voltage reading of this splice point as referenced to ground. Take the reading with lights on / off, signal flashers on / off, and reverse light on / off. If this point is OK, then the voltage should be 0v under all conditions, but if it rises above .5 volts under any of the light on conditions, then the solution to your rear lighting problem is going to be relatively easy to sort out.

Good job on getting the mirrors and interior lights working. The IOD fuse is the 'Ignition Off Draw' fuse. It powers things that need to operate when the ignition key is turned off. It also affects things like the radio memory.
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Old 09-25-2011, 03:46 PM
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Sorry it took so long to reply. I got an infection and it's hard to get down on my back, but the antibiotics are helping.

Anyway, I got down and got some voltage readings today from that splice connection. It appears that splice connection only has 5 wires going in and not 7. I took the readings on the two wires that come out of the splice.

With all lights off the voltage on the bigger black wire and the smaller black wire was .02v to .05v. With the right turn signal on the voltage on the bigger black wire was .5v +/- and the smaller black wire was 1.15v +/-. It was basically the same reading with the reverse lights on as it was with the turn signals on.

When the right turn signal was activated, the voltage will go up with the light lit and drop in half when the light was not lit.

I included two pictures below to indicate where I took the readings from and to verify this was the correct splice connection.

Splice Connection:


These are the two places I got voltage readings. The wire on the bottom is the bigger of the two.


Thanks.
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  #18  
Old 09-25-2011, 11:27 PM
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You are 100% right....it is 5 wires. I counted the wires from connectors C329 and C333 twice.

The fact that you got a different reading on 2 of the wires that exceeds .1v, I believe this splice connection is in trouble. The wires at this point are -

a) Black 12ga - connects through to another splice point, then to a connector, then to ground in the engine compartment. I believe this connection to be OK based on your readings taken from it.

b) Black 16ga - connects through connector 329 to splice S402 where it splits to the right tail light bulb and the right reverse light bulb.

c) Black 16ga - connects through connector 333 to splice S401 where it splits to the left tail light bulb and the left reverse light bulb.

d) Black 18ga - connects through connector C342 to right license lamp.

e) Black 18ga - connects through connector C343 to left license lamp.

If there is a poor connection of the 16ga ground wire to the right side, then the symptoms you described in post #1 would show up.

If it were my truck, I would open up the splice and check it for corrosion, etc. Then I would likely cut all the wires and re-splice them to ensure a proper connection. If this splice is working properly, then the voltage on all 5 wires should be identical under all conditions, and should be less then .5volts.
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  #19  
Old 09-26-2011, 12:11 AM
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Again, you hit it right on the money. I cut the splice out and I couldn't visually see any signs of wear, damage or corrosion after close examination. So, I went ahead and made a temporary splice connection to include those 5 wires and went to test the lights. The voltage back-feeding through the ground was completely gone. All of the lights operated exactly as they should.

I can't thank ya enough for leading me in the right direction... TWICE!
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  #20  
Old 09-26-2011, 12:36 AM
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WTG! It sure is nice feeling when you have those annoyances sorted out and 'know' your rear lights are functioning correctly. Keep up the good work and you'll have a brand new 12 year old truck in no time.
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