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  #11  
Old 09-22-2011, 03:59 PM
camoman214 camoman214 is offline
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Originally Posted by DadzDodge View Post
Sorry, I didn't catch on right away, but now I'm with you. Yes, our new pump has holes in the pulley, but I didn't give them any thought because the pulley was already firmly attached to the new pump when we bought it. I think you're going to find you're in good shape and ready to install the pump you've already bought. Don't give another thought to the fact that the bolts can be removed from the old pump but cannot be inserted into the new one. Like sonocativo said, there are pumps out there that have bolt-on pulleys, but you're a step ahead because your pump already has the pulley firmly attached. The good news is that you're going to compare the new pump to the old pump just before you install the new one. Chances are very good that it's going to be an identical fit to the one you took off, and at that point, you're ready to put everything back together. Again, don't give another thought to the pulley since your new pump has its pulley already mounted.

I'll toss in a few more points that you've probably already thought of, but are too important to skip just in case you haven't:

* when you are in the process of removing the old pump, be careful to note which bolts came out of which holes in the old pump. They are different lengths, with some shorter than the others. You'll be glad you noted this when you're installing the new pump. Some guys will set the new pump on the garage floor beside the truck, and as bolts are removed from the old pump, they'll insert the bolts into the same hole on the new pump. Then when the old pump is out, they set it next to the new pump and then one-by-one, move the bolts from the new pump to the old so they'll know where to insert them on the new pump as it's being installed. If that description is hard to follow, just know that it's important to note whether each bolt hole holding the old pump had a short bolt or a long bolt.
* if your old pump has a small, removable "water inlet tube", don't bother trying to remove the old tube from the old pump. Buy a new inlet tube for the new pump so you'll be sure to get a good fit and a good seal.
* this is a good time to change your thermostat unless it's been changed not too long ago.
* check the hoses, especially the lower one. Our lower hose was reinforced with a metal coil that had started to rust, spreading a mess throughout the cooling system. We did a complete flush twice to remove the mess before changing out the pump.

I think you're ready to rock and roll. Good luck!
Good info. My pump is leaking in the same manner as stated above, so I'm sure I'll be replacing mine soon. I can actually smell antifreeze when exiting the truck and I saw a small amount on the bottom tip of the balancer. I was hearing the "waterfall" sound when turning the truck on and off. I refilled the cooling system and the noise went away, but with that leak I'm sure it'll be back in no time.
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  #12  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:11 PM
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thanks for the pointers!

i do plan on changing the thermostat, i do have new hoses for the upper and lower and i am replacing everything except the bypass hose. that hose seems to be in good shape and it looks like a real big pain to get out. by the inlet tube, do you mean the metal tube with the flag where the heater hose enters the water pump? that one seemed pretty lodged in there good, will they have this part a regular auto parts store?

how hard is it to get to the thermostat? i have not looked into it yet.

i watched a couple of video tutorials that really helped me out. if anyone is planning on doing this job check these videos out, they were really helpful to me.



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  #13  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MOPAR stallion View Post
Really? Why would they make new pumps with 2 different ways of attaching the pulley? Every new water pump I have seen so far has the pressed on version. I feel like how the pulley is attached should not make any difference and every tutorial I have seen on this peoples old pump had the bolt on pulley and the new one was pressed on. Thanks for the input so far guys, someone please confirm if I need to return this pump and find one with a bolt on pulley

Thanks!
I dont know why? When I went to get ti they asked if it was a bolt on or pressed on pulley. The pump with the pressed on pulley comes with a new pulley and only $40 no core charge... the bolt on pump comes without a pulley since you use your old pulley. Mine had 4 holes in the pulley but nothing threaded or anything to bolt to behind the pulley as well. Its weird but thats just some of the crazy stuff manufacturers do....lol
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  #14  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:31 PM
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LOL yup, the bolts are different length and I drew a diagram on the wall with numbers ( I marked the bolt heads with numbers ) and my wife come out and seen it and looked at me like "WTF" ?
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:46 PM
DadzDodge DadzDodge is offline
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Tractorerik - yep, that waterfall sound is familiar. We had the "mysterious disappearing coolant" syndrome because the pump was only leaking a little at first, not enough to point with certainty to the water pump. But we had that gurgling sound from air in the system, and low coolant levels, so by the time the pump started leaking a lot, we were pretty sure we knew what was going on!

MoparStallion,
Too funny, that's EXACTLY the same video I watched before tackling the water pump on our truck! I can tell you that our water pump swap-out went exactly as described in Brian's video. EXACTLY. In fact, those tips I included in my earlier post were things I learned only after watching his videos.

On the bypass hose -- I didn't change ours, but soon after the water pump job I was talking to a mechanic at the local dealership and he said I should have tackled it while I was in there. Maybe so, but I don't have any regrets leaving it alone (at least not yet!)

Yes, the inlet tube is the one with the flag, and yes, it's available at the auto parts stores for under $10. I'm glad you're going to get a new one. The manager at the local Autozone told me he'd never seen anyone successfully re-use the old one.

We have different engines (5.2 vs 5.9 L) so I can't speak to your thermostat, but on ours, the thermostat was a bit of a challenge to get to, but nothing to cause any worry or delay. Two tips I might pass along -- on ours, I loosened the alternator's lower-left bolt, and removed its upper-right bolt, which allowed me to move the alternator a bit to the left. This gave me access to reach the hose clamp. Also, once the thermostat had been replaced and I was putting everything back together, I wondered how I was going to start the bolts when putting them back into the thermostat's housing. I used one of those magnetized reachers you use when you've dropped something in a hard-to-reach spot, and put the bolt on the magnet and then patiently started the bolt. Once it was a few turns in, I could then use the sockets (with 6" extension) to finish the job.

I installed a 195 degree thermostat, only because that's what the store's web site called for as being OEM. I've seen that several of the guys on here prefer 180 degrees, and I think that was actually the OEM temperature some time ago before emissions control became such a big factor.

This winter, when it's down around zero in Kentucky, too bad I can't send some cold air to San Jose so you can give your heater a workout. With your cooling system maintenance all done, your truck would be ready for it!
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:49 PM
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......and my wife come out and seen it and looked at me like "WTF" ?


YEP! That's what wives do best! And the more you try to explain why you did something, the bigger they roll their eyes.
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  #17  
Old 09-23-2011, 12:34 AM
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thanks for all the help so far everyone.

i managed to swap in the new thermostat without removing anything else believe it or not. it took me a little bit of time because i dropped one of the bolts in the dark which was not fun to find! haha. i used a flexible extension and ratchet to get the bolts loose and then just pulled it out with a little maneuvering. as you mentioned above getting the bolts back in was going to be the hard part! i tried the magnet trick (funny i thought of this too before reading your post) but the tool spun too easy. i ended up wadding up a piece of duct tape and sticking it in the socket, it held the bolt nicely and i was able to bolt it all up! hopefully i wont have any leaks. i used permatex ultra gray on both sides of the gasket. not sure if that stuff is good enough to withstand the heat and liquid..
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  #18  
Old 09-23-2011, 02:43 AM
DadzDodge DadzDodge is offline
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Ah, duct tape! My father-in-law can fix anything with just duct tape and a pipe wrench. I looked up Permatex Ultra Grey and their web page specifically mentions water pumps and thermostats in its list of suggested applications, and it says it has outstanding resistance to oils, coolant and shop fluids. So, you should be in good shape!
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  #19  
Old 09-27-2011, 09:49 PM
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hey all,

i finished the job so thanks for all the help with it.

HOWEVER, i still have almost the exact same leak and after taking a closer look i am pretty sure it is coming from the one thing that i did not change...

the bypass hose!!!

needless to say i am not happy right now. does anyone have any good articles/videos on how to replace this? it seems like it goes way back in the block somewhere. i am hoping i can remove some things on the top of the engine and not have to mess with the water pump again.

thanks
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  #20  
Old 09-27-2011, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DadzDodge View Post
YEP! That's what wives do best! And the more you try to explain why you did something, the bigger they roll their eyes.
Oh, I cant even start to explain anything to her, she is a bookworm and if it aint in writting she doesnt want to hear it. What I get from her is : Whats the bottom line? Cost?
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