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  #21  
Old 10-09-2011, 09:40 PM
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I knew they were reliable but not that much lol, good to know thanks man...I'm not going for looks right now either, just trying to get it running

UPDATE: Z32 fuel filter, SARD fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge is hooked up. The wiring on the other hand is mostly done except a few wires loose that need to be soldered to the body harness and the speed sensor wire needs be extended a little.

Your S13 is not bad at all, I like it..you got any videos up on youtube or whatever?

@SrtSir What about you any videos of the S14 yet?
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Last edited by xPUNlSH3Rx; 10-09-2011 at 09:44 PM.
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  #22  
Old 10-10-2011, 10:26 PM
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@Inabj2

I'm almost done doing my SR20 swap into my S13 but I'm having a wiring issue..

Near the battery tray there is a brown and gray plug. The brown plug colors on the body harness match up to the SR engine harness and hooks up fine, but the gray plug on the engine harness was cut so I figured I would just cut the plug on the body harness and wired them up. Well the wires are not all the same color, see pictures below..I've tried looking at the ECU pinout but I cannot find the 240 body harness wire diagram anywhere

I need your help lol!! This is all I need to hopefully get it started.

From left to right. green/yellow stripe, blue, red, thick black/red stripe, orange/blue stripe (or the other way around), blue/green stripe, and black/white stripe


Kind of hard to see but from left to right..brown, red, thick black/red stripe, blue, thick blue/red stripe and black/white stripe
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  #23  
Old 10-11-2011, 12:00 AM
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I think I found the answer

http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-...SR20_t_26.html
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  #24  
Old 10-11-2011, 01:55 AM
Inabj2 Inabj2 is offline
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Sorry, I was at work and I missed this!

FR sports is correct the answer to your question starts with Figure 5a towards the bottom of the page.

Don't forget to do the brown or white dash plug by the ecu either! (top of page)

Having that said I strongly suggest that you don't cut your chassis plug, it is much more preferable to cut the sr20det harness plug and put a KA plug on its place from your ka harness instead!!!

Car will obviously run without plug but if you ever have to pull the engine and pull the sr20det harness it will be easier on you to just unplug rather then leave the harness hanging by the front fender.
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  #25  
Old 10-11-2011, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inabj2 View Post
Sorry, I was at work and I missed this!

FR sports is correct the answer to your question starts with Figure 5a towards the bottom of the page.

Don't forget to do the brown or white dash plug by the ecu either! (top of page)

Having that said I strongly suggest that you don't cut your chassis plug, it is much more preferable to cut the sr20det harness plug and put a KA plug on its place from your ka harness instead!!!

Car will obviously run without plug but if you ever have to pull the engine and pull the sr20det harness it will be easier on you to just unplug rather then leave the harness hanging by the front fender.
It's cool I asked a buddy of mine and he pointed me in the right direction..The funny thing is that I had already used this to do the white plug you are talking about in the cabin. The brown wire I was told it connects together with the thick black/red stripe wires which the FRSport guide says to do do so.

I do not have a KA harness available but was lucky to find the KA dashboard plug free from a local forum but as for the chassis plug I will have to cut and solder the wires together which it's accessible at any time in case I wanna do another motor swap in my S13.

Tonight as soon as my daughter goes to bed I'm gonna finish up the wiring so by this weekend all I need to do is wire up the speed sensor (which is also cut) under the transmission, install the downpipe and drive shaft.

Question..I am waiting to order the couplers and T bolt clamps for my intercooler so my question is can I plug in the MAF to the throttle body and just start it up and let it idle? I understand it will probably run rough but I just want to make sure it starts up fine
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  #26  
Old 10-12-2011, 06:37 PM
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here are some latest pics...


Front suspension done back one still in progress..



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  #27  
Old 10-12-2011, 06:38 PM
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Sorry about crappy cell phone pics...
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  #28  
Old 10-12-2011, 08:34 PM
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Your S14 is so nice!!
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  #29  
Old 10-14-2011, 01:34 AM
Inabj2 Inabj2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xPUNlSH3Rx View Post
It's cool I asked a buddy of mine and he pointed me in the right direction..The funny thing is that I had already used this to do the white plug you are talking about in the cabin. The brown wire I was told it connects together with the thick black/red stripe wires which the FRSport guide says to do do so.

I do not have a KA harness available but was lucky to find the KA dashboard plug free from a local forum but as for the chassis plug I will have to cut and solder the wires together which it's accessible at any time in case I wanna do another motor swap in my S13.

Tonight as soon as my daughter goes to bed I'm gonna finish up the wiring so by this weekend all I need to do is wire up the speed sensor (which is also cut) under the transmission, install the downpipe and drive shaft.

Question..I am waiting to order the couplers and T bolt clamps for my intercooler so my question is can I plug in the MAF to the throttle body and just start it up and let it idle? I understand it will probably run rough but I just want to make sure it starts up fine
You have a slight chance of running lean since you will be sucking in un metered air through all the vacuum leaks as each unsecured coupler is right now a vacuum/boost leak as it stands, but it will probably run. Do not drive it because you will pop couplers as soon as you hit boost.

You can probably get hose clamps from your local hardware store, no need too get fancy. My hose clamps hold 20-23 psi of boost just fine.

PS. you probably already know this but make sure you crank it a good minute or two with the cas sensor unplugged so that the car does not start, so that the fresh oil you just put in has a chance to lubricate all the bearings and engine components before you fire it. I like to do this with the oil filler cap on the valve cover unscrewed and shine a light down there so I can see when the oil starts lubricating the camshaft, that is when you know your engine is pre lubed and ready to be fired up, after months of sitting.

Also if it doesn't have an enlarged oil pan you might want to invest in either a Moroso or Greddy oil pan.

Last edited by Inabj2; 10-14-2011 at 01:46 AM.
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  #30  
Old 10-14-2011, 07:19 PM
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I dont have couplers or clamps yet, all I have is enough to install the MAF to the throttle body, so there won't be much of vacuum leaks.

Thanks, I knew about cranking it to lubricate it first and also to pressurize the fuel too so I can look at my fuel pressure gauge and see what It will be.

Thanks for the advise though, and tomorrow when we get everything done I will be taking pictures and hopefully a start up video.

Yes I do have a high capacity cast aluminum oil pan
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