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Electrical 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Electrical Problems and Questions.


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  #1  
Old 09-26-2011, 05:19 PM
gildurbin gildurbin is offline
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Default power door lock fuse keeps blowing

I have a 99 Ram 2500 that keeps blowing the power door lock fuse (10A). As a result my intermittent wipers and some other minor things won't work. Any ideas what may be causing this? as a test I put a 25A fuse in place of the 10A fuse and everything worked fine, I removed the 25A and left the slot open for safety reasons, it didn't blow the 25A fuse or burn my wiring up so I don't think that I have a dead short, but then again I'm a novice in all things electrical. Could there be a problem within the CTM? or the door lock switches? has anyone experienced this sort of problem or have any ideas where I should look for a problem? Thanks.
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:50 AM
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Hi and I sure wish I had an answer for you. Best I can do is this back to the top for you.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:03 AM
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Chances are (being a 99) that the lock motors have gotten dirty and sticky, so require more current to operate. If you remove the lock motor and give it a good cleaning, you may be able to restore proper operation.

Also check the linkage that is connected to the motor(s). If they are too stiff, this would also cause the motors to draw more current.

BTW - Testing with the 25A, but removing it for safety reasons is both great troubleshooting, and a smart choice.
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:57 AM
gildurbin gildurbin is offline
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Thanks guys, I'll give that a try when I have some free time. being dirty/sticky and drawing more current makes a lot of sense to me.
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Old 10-02-2011, 02:43 PM
DODGECUMMINSWOODY DODGECUMMINSWOODY is offline
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I'll have to assume that the ten amp fuse is the correct size fuse and that it only blows when you actuate the locks when the locks are in the unlocked position is that correct? Also that it blows every time and not just every once in a while? You can try to isolate the problem by manualy locking one side then electrically operating the other side. I would have to agree that its not a dead short if so it would have created one of the conditions that you mentioned. I also agree that it could be lack of maintenance (a little WD 40 goes along way!) It also sounds as though the case could be that it being a 99 that the lock solenoids are drawing slightly more currant then when they were new (which is common) in this state they are not bad they're just wearing out. If lubing doesn't help then to buy you some time try stepping up one step to a larger fuse and see if that works if it doesn't go to a 10 amp slow blow if that doesn't go to next size slow blow if you if problem still persist then go to the isolation step to determine which needs replaced. Good luck
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Old 10-02-2011, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DODGECUMMINSWOODY View Post
I'll have to assume that the ten amp fuse is the correct size fuse and that it only blows when you actuate the locks when the locks are in the unlocked position is that correct? Also that it blows every time and not just every once in a while? You can try to isolate the problem by manualy locking one side then electrically operating the other side. I would have to agree that its not a dead short if so it would have created one of the conditions that you mentioned. I also agree that it could be lack of maintenance (a little WD 40 goes along way!) It also sounds as though the case could be that it being a 99 that the lock solenoids are drawing slightly more currant then when they were new (which is common) in this state they are not bad they're just wearing out. If lubing doesn't help then to buy you some time try stepping up one step to a larger fuse and see if that works if it doesn't go to a 10 amp slow blow if that doesn't go to next size slow blow if you if problem still persist then go to the isolation step to determine which needs replaced. Good luck
This test might work if they were solenoids, but they are an actual motor, which means they will draw the higher current whether in motion or staled if real dirty. As you pointed out the wear aspect, that is very relevant with motors as well. I've never have a truck long enough to get them to that age, so don't know if the motors are serviceable, which may be required to bring the current draw within spec. I agree with going up 1 size of fuse....to 15A, but if absolutely necessary. The wiring is engineered to handle a bit more than it's fused for, so will likely be OK at 15A, but if this can be avoided, that's preferable.
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Old 10-02-2011, 04:44 PM
DODGECUMMINSWOODY DODGECUMMINSWOODY is offline
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Motors sorry. Can still troubleshoot the same way. They will draw even more currant if stalled will exceed F.L.A. Not sure Id jump to 15 amp
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