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  #11  
Old 10-02-2011, 03:38 PM
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just did this to my truck n now it idles at about 500 rpm, and if sitin still i jab the gas real quick, once the R's come back down it wants to die, and when i went for a test drive, when i pulled off my road it actually did die
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  #12  
Old 10-02-2011, 06:16 PM
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well after lettin the motor cool i loosed it up and adjusted it toward the dizzy and the R's came back up
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  #13  
Old 10-02-2011, 08:31 PM
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found out the stalling problem, turns out its my tps sensor, ill have to re-adjust it tomorrow when its daylight so i can see
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  #14  
Old 10-02-2011, 08:37 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Also remember that the OBD II units have a learning capacity and it'll take a couple hundred miles for it to adjust.
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  #15  
Old 10-02-2011, 09:00 PM
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yeah, on my test drive after adjusting the crank sensor and ziptie'n the throttle cable, it would light em up right away on dry pavement, before it would struggle
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Old 10-03-2011, 03:13 PM
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well found out what was up with it wanting to stall. it was the tps, had nothing to do with the crank sensor. turns out when i went to re-adjust it, i over tighted it, causing it to get a inacurate voltage reading, so once the engine cooles down again, im gonna move the crank sensor again since i moved it back last night thinkin it had something to do with it
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  #17  
Old 10-03-2011, 10:56 PM
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hey lopar...after the crank sensor mod what kinda low end torque did u get? huge gain? little gain?
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  #18  
Old 10-03-2011, 11:12 PM
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havent takin it for a test run after re adjusting it today, but after i adjusted it yesturday when i took it for a run (while the tps sensor was messed up) it would burn the tires no problem where it would have a hard time before
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:57 AM
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my 95 5.9 Magnum can still be adjusted with the distributor twist, its harder to do because its behind the intake manifold. my 01 was the same way. and its less risky than hosing up the bell housing or crank sensor.
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  #20  
Old 10-18-2011, 03:51 PM
Gen1dak Gen1dak is offline
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Twisting the distributor (CAMshaft sensor) and causing your injectors to fire a moment sooner may give some improvement by mimicking a cam with a slightly more aggressive opening event (but it's not because the valve would still be closed) on the intake side (and affecting your injector synch), but that has nothing to do with advancing base ignition timing, which is handled by the computer based on input from the CRANKshaft sensor. The rotor in the distributor has even less contact time with each point in the cap to distribute ignition power since the cap is now twisted away from where it should be. This could be corrected by, yes, doing both mods, but while they will be in synch, all you'll accomplish is firing the injector before the intake valve is open, based on the PCM programming and actual cam events. A more aggressive cam might actually be useful here, but we are getting beyond the scope of this thread.
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