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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 5.2 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!


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  #1  
Old 09-30-2011, 10:04 PM
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Default Love this forum !

Just wanted to say how much I enjoy using this site. It's very informative and filled with a bunch of great members. I've been crusing around it for a little while now and have gained a bunch of useful knowledge. I just did a mod that I've learned on here that involves the throttle cable and zipties. I did it today and man it made a complete difference with my truck. I have a 96 slt single cab with the 5.2 auto 2 wheel drive with 238,xxx on odometer and before I did this the truck would get and go but would have to bury the pedal but now she moves with no effort at all and now has the bottom end power to break the tires loose but wouldnt do it before because the cable was so stretched out. It took me 6 ties to take out the slack but man what a difference for sure I would've never thought of it if it was'nt for this site ! Just wanted to say thanks for such a great place to gain knowledge from. I also am looking to do the plenum gasket repair and the throttle body mod which should help out alot. it may not be good for me though to have all this new pep in the motor and so many miles as I tend to have a heavy foot at times but have heard that these little motors are basically bulletproof so I may be ok !
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:22 PM
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got pics of the throttle cable and zipties? whats it do exactly?

when you do the plenum gasket, you could do the kegger mod to
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.lopar View Post
got pics of the throttle cable and zipties? whats it do exactly?

when you do the plenum gasket, you could do the kegger mod to
Check out this thread. Specifically post #11.
http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=49229
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:31 AM
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Did'nt take pics but it's easy enough to walk you through it. Basically over time your cable stretches little by little then it gets to the point to where your pedal sits lower to floorboard than it does when brand new. Basically all I did was find something big enough to fit under the pedal to raise it up off the floorboard then crawled under the dash and had about 2 1/2 inches of excess cable sticking out from the top of pedal assembly. I had to use 6 regular sized zipties to fill up the slack between the top of pedal and the end of cable. all you do is put the zipties on the cable and stack one on top of the other until you fill up the cable to the end stop with zipties and then cut all the excess off and take out whatever you had under pedal and it will keep your pedal off the floor and allows the butterfly flaps on the throttle body to open more when you get on the throttle unlike it would when you had all the slack in the cable to where it wont open the flaps like they would if the truck was brand new. gives it more torque and top end to where you dont have to floor the pedal to get it to move. I am definately giving that little tip a big thumbs up. made a world of difference right off the bat.
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brad12kx View Post
Check out this thread. Specifically post #11.
http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=49229
thanks brad
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:59 AM
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Glad to have helped; and as DodgeGuy85 pointed out, it's a very easy mod and makes a huge difference.
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:03 AM
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ill be doin this tomorrow along with adjusting the crank sensor
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:02 PM
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Crank sensor what's that all about ? Maybe it's something I may need to do to mine ! lol could you walk me through it ?
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:20 PM
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yup, originaly posted by gen1dak in the 5.9 section

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen1dak View Post
Originally posted by KRC Performance:
Remove the crankshaft sensor on the aft/passenger side of the block. It is held down by (2) 1/2" bolts and pulls out of the tranny bell housing when loose. There is a rubber grommet in the bell housing also, remove it. Now look at the sensor's bracket, notice the 2 bolt holes. Slot each hole 3/8" both ways, still giving the bolts something to hold onto. Then insert the sensor back into the bell housing, making sure you pulled out the rubber grommet. Thread the 2 bolts back in loose, then slide the sensor as far as it can, towards the oil filter, away from the intake. This will advance, moving it towards the intake in the same direction of crank rotation and will retard the base timing; do not do this unless your teenager is driving the truck. It will usually be limited by the bell housing how far you can move it. If you are really brave, grind the bell housing and fab a new adjustable bracket. This will add 3-4 degrees of timing across the whole board of advance tables, and cure the Death Flash problem in your Magnum. That'll be $5 please...just kidding!

heres my crank sensor and the rubber gromet removed


and the holes slotted out


after doin this i went for a test run (and my tps was messed up at the time) and it would easily burn the tires off when it would struggle before
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:24 PM
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btw if you monkey with it, make sure the engine is cold else youll burn the chit outta your hands/arms as its kind of a pain in the as to get to. youll need a medium length extension with a swivial at the end
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