Now that all the wiring for installing the HID kits into the projector headlight assembly is finished, it is time to head out to my truck and install the lights. The hardest part of the whole installation into the truck process was finding a place to secure the ballasts, error code eliminators, and load resistors for the LED turn signal bulbs and attaching them to the truck.
To start the installation process, I had to remove the stock headlights. First, I removed the plastic cover which covers the space between the grill and the radiator. There are 6 tabs that need to be removed. They are a little difficult to remove, but you just have to pull up hard on the plastic cover. Set the cover aside.
Then, I removed the grill. It is connected at the top to the radiator with 4 10mm bolts. Remove them and the grill will tilt out. Firmly pull out on the bottom of the grill to release the tabs holding the bottom of the grill in. Be careful not to break the grill, but you do have to pull it out firmly to get the tabs to release. Picture with grill removed.
On the front edge of the headlight, there are 2 10mm bolts securing the headlight to the truck. Remove them. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture but they are easy to see when the grill is removed.
Next, at the front of the wheel well, there are 2 8mm bolts that need to be removed. I removed them so I could get access to the white tab behind the headlight that holds the headlight in. Remove the 2 8mm bolts and pull the plastic wheel well cover back. This will give you access to the white tab.
Next, reach under the wheel well cover, find the white tab and push it up. This will release the headlight so you can remove it. Have someone hold the headlight in place while you release the tab. You don't want the headlight to fall out and break and scratch up the front of your truck.
Then, I pulled the stock headlight out from its spot, unplugged the wires and removed the stock headlight.
Now that the stock headlight is removed, I could start installing my new Spyder Projector headlights and LED turn signal bulbs.
First I installed the LED turn signal bulbs. I removed the old bulb and inserted the LED bulb into its place. I checked and sure enough, the LED bulb hyperflashed so I had to install the load resistor. I found a place on the truck frame to secure the load resistor and attached it to the truck. Using a volt meter, I found the truck's turn signal wire and using Quik-clamps attached the wires from the load resistor to the turn signal and negative wires. You can find a wiring diagram from the company you purchase the load resistors from. It is pretty easy though. On wire attaches to the negative wire and the other wire attaches to the turn signal wire. This took care of the hyperflashing.
Then, I removed the HID high and low kits' ballasts and error code eliminators from the projector headlight assembly and found places to secure them onto the truck frame very near the place where the headlight assembly sits. I secured the ballasts and error code eliminators for both the high and low beam kits with 3m two-sided tape and zip ties.
I then took the 2 white positive LED wires from the projector headlight assembly and attached a single male 18 gauge wire tab to them, crimped it and wrapped it with electrical tape. I did the same to the 2 black negative LED wires from the projector headlight assembly. I attached a female wire tab to a spare piece of red 18 gauge wire and, using a Quik-clamp, spliced it into the parking light wire of the truck's turn signal wiring wires. I attached another female wire tab to a spare piece of black 18 guage wire and, using a Quik-clamp, spliced it into the negative wire of the truck's turn signal wiring wires. Sorry, I forgot to take pics of this step. There are several YouTube videos of how to do this though.
Then I brought the new Spyder projector headlights assembly up to the truck and reattached the high and low HID kit wires to the ballasts and error code eliminators. I attached the white and black LED wires from the projector headlight assembly to the red and black 18 guage wires I spiced into the truck's parking light and negative wires. I plugged the white wires' male end into the red wire's female end and the black wires' male end into the black wire's female end. I then attached the projector headlight assembly Y-Harness plug to the truck's headlight wiring connector. On my 2011, this connector is green.
Sorry, I forgot to take pics of these steps, but the connections are pretty self-explanatory again due to the ends of the wires.
I then had my helper hold the headlight assembly while I turned on and tried out the headlights. Halos and LEDs worked. Low beams worked. High beam worked. Turn signals worked. Everything worked perfectly.
So, I secured the CCFL Inverter to the truck frame using 3M two-sided tape and zip ties. I then pushed all of the wires into the headlight area and inserted the new headlight assembly into its space. Once it was inserted properly, I reached under the wheel well and pulled the white tab to secure the headlight in place. Then I attached the 2 10mm bolts on the front of the headlight and tried them out again. I put the wheel well plastic cover back in place and secured it with the 2 8mm bolts.
Here are pics with one side in.
I then repeated the same procedure on the other side. Checked everything several times. Everything worked perfectly, so I put the grill back on. Attached the bottom first. Make sure the tabs all insert properly and then secure the grill with the 4 10mm bolts. Then I attached the plastic cover by pushing the 6 plastic retainer pins into their places.
Here is the final result it you didn't see my post on Thursday when I installed the lights.
I hope this helps anyone thinking about doing this upgrade. I think it really adds to the looks and visibility of the truck. If you like the step-by-step how-to guide, rep points are always appreciated. If you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I might be able to help.