I did one on an 05 but its the same deal. Jack the truck up. Remove bolts from top and bottom of the shock. Remove the three bolts from the shock tower. Remove shock tower. Pull shock straight through top. Push axle down as far as possible, remove spring. On top of it you will have a ring with three bolts and a rubber isolator. set aside the ring with bolts. Install spacer on top of isolator on top of spring and install the spring/spacer assembly. At this point I found putting a bottle jack between the frame and axle to push them apart helps alot! Especially on the passenger side. Line the bolts back up through the inner fender, slide the shock back down in and put the shock tower back in and start putting all your bolts back on.
24k miles and havent had any problems yet. I highly recomend the HBS spacers!
Engine: 1998-2001 360ci (5.9L) Magnum V8 245hp(standard), 250hp(Sport package)
Rep Power: 0
For me the daunting task was dropping a 300+ lb front axle loose from two coil springs under some preload, while keeping a 6600 lb truck on two jackstands on a slightly inclined driveway. Plus I never have a helper. Thus two jacks.
Your stock shock tower bolts are actually welded to a steel ring that is under the rubber isolator. That doesn't get reused.
Be careful you don't tear the isolator, Dodge will sell you 3rd gen replacements. LMC truck still lists OEM replacements. If your new spacers don't have welded on studs getting the holes aligned to slp new bolts in can be a pita. Best to get all three holes aligned...slip a bolt and nut in there finger tight to hold the spacer in place, and put the springs and isolators back in. Use the jacks (or I recommend another pair of jackstands) to hold the springs/spacers in place and reinstall the shocks. Now remove that finger tight bolt. You're over 1/2 done!
Gas shocks are a pain. So I use LARGE zip ties to compress them and hold them compressed. Drop them through the springs and put in the bottom bolts.
Don't forget your washers and bushings on the bottom of the top shock stud!
When you have exhausted your share of cusswords geting the upper shock mounts bolted into the spacers, align the upper stud with the hole in the mount and cut the zip tie.
BTW, you'll need a manual to get all the torque specs. Your lower shock bolts and track bar bolt have to be correctly tightened. A good torque wrench is a must. You could rent one.
Oh, in addition to your axle being uncentered under the truck your sway bar link geometry will be changed. They will angle back towards the spring. No biggie, but under a turn or similar manuever the now unstraight bushings will deflect and the sway bars reaction and compensation will be slower. You should NOT remove the sway bar. Drop brackets or longer links are avalible to restore factory functionality.
Hopefully you will not catch "inch desease". There is no cure.