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  #11  
Old 10-11-2011, 03:22 PM
440Magnum 440Magnum is offline
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Call me lazy and cheap, but I'd look for a complete axle at a junkyard and swap that in. Its much easier than correctly setting up the depth of mesh, mesh pattern, bearing preload, and all the other pain-in-the-rear details you have to do to rebuild a rear end and get it to last more than 5 miles and run quiet. I'd rather overhaul a 545RFE than rebuild a rear axle. And frankly, if you ran it out of gear oil pretty much everything in there is going to be damaged anyway. Might as well just do one job instead of coming back to fix the next thing that breaks, then the next, then the next....
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  #12  
Old 10-12-2011, 03:07 PM
Lyoooha Lyoooha is offline
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some updates:

ive opened the case and there was fluid there, so the gears were more or less lubed

what happened is while i was driving the top shaft bearing had went (because the fluid level by now was much lower than supposed to) spraying the oil on the exhaust tank causing smoke

luckily the gears seem fine, at this point I find want to take some time and do the job right myself. I will know if thats the case only if I confirm the case itself wasnt damaged and the diff can be repaired with replacement parts

ive gotten axels out of the way, the pin out with 4 bolts, 2 clips out - at this point, the guys who posted videos of the procedure their differential comes right out, ours have special spherical indents in the case slightly different design.

At this point im trying to figure out how to pull the carri3r with gears out of the case to get to the shaft gear for observation




at this point no luck with getting a salvage rear end assly
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  #13  
Old 10-12-2011, 05:06 PM
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GTyankee GTyankee is offline
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the pinion gear & the ring gear have to match up
for the dodge trucks there were a few options, all are RATIO related
like 3.21, 3.55. 3.92, 4.11, back then they may have had other ratios also

If it was myself having this issue
i would take the whole unit that you removed from the back of the housing
to a shop that specializes in automotive gears, (standard stick transmissions & differentials)
have them inspect that unit & tell you what their observation was, then if everything looks good, have them sell you a pinion gear, bearing & seal & hopefully tell you how to do an re-install

The shop near me has 2 prices for repairs
1 price if you take the whole differential to them, axles, housing & all
a higher price if you take the vehicle to them & they have to do everything

Good Luck
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  #14  
Old 10-14-2011, 08:59 PM
sharkster sharkster is offline
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I have an 03 Ram 1500 Quad 6.3 box 4x4 and Im doing my rear end now
Its not that hard. Its been some years since Ive done one.
I started getting a howl in my rear end a few months ago and decided to investigate. Inside I found pieces I later identified as the caps for the clutch packs in my limited slip. Everything else looked good. My back lash is way off and I decided to get a full rebuild kit with bearings, race, shims, crush sleeve etc. I also went for a new set of clutch packs.
It can seem kind of intimidating especially when you start in with the shimming and dial indicator. I started snooping on the web and found a book on tear down and rebuild and bought it for like $29. When you go to check out it asked if I wanted the accompanied DVD. It was only like another $20-$30 so I said what the heck.... let me tell you that DVD is an absolute life saver. This guy does a "complete" breakdown and rebuild of about 9 different rear ends with dialing in and diagnosing misalignment of test patterns etc. Im telling you this was the best $60 bucks Ive ever spent.... except for that one time in the phillippines in 1986 ahhhh yeah ok.
Anyhow
Heres the link for it. I mean it... if you want to do it yourself on ANY rear end this is the tutorial to do it by.

the worst part of the whole rebuild... trying to find that damn carrier pin lock bolt. Dodge... yeah not happening. Anything to do with the 9.25 rear end and they want you to spring for a whole new diff from them. 8.25's you can get any part.
The reason mine got all whacked was I found both of my U joint yokes were trashed. One was completely missing 2 caps and put a crack in the bearing holder on the front side. All replaced.


Yours may have more damage and may require more to be replaced inside.

http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/sit...product/161600

All total I spent like $300 in parts for the gears, shims, race, bearings, oil etc
Instead of renting the tools I think I spent around $300 in specialty tools plus the dial indicator but thats only because Ill be building a new Ford 9in rear in my Notch and will need them anyhow.

No kidding on this DVD though. Very in depth and thorough
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  #15  
Old 10-21-2011, 01:19 PM
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TooPoorForHemi TooPoorForHemi is offline
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I just got my rear replaced in my 2003 ram 1500 4.7l cost me 600$ with parts and labor. took like 6 hours for my rear to be redone.
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