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Custom Dodge Ram Interior Modifications - Custom Audio / Video All custom mods on the interior of your Dodge Ram. Dodge Ram stereo mods, alarms, electronics, shift knobs, upholstery, etc.


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  #21  
Old 11-02-2011, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voodoochi1d View Post
your ground should be at least 8 gauge, and make sure its grounded to unpainted metal surface of your truck body.
That could very well cause power issues. not sure if dimming lights would be what you would notice however.
the soundstream amp is 200w? that Memphis sub, shouldnt you be putting more like 500w to it? too little power can damage a speaker is what i was always told.
The sub is an 'S Class' sub with a rms of 300w and peak 600w, so I am not underpowering it by much. I am going to upgrade to a newer amp sometime because after my wife hearing my truck she wants me to upgrade the system in her car So this amp will go in the car because she won't listen to it as loud as I do. Memphis has a matching amp to this sub with a rms @2ohms of 300w. I dont think it will be a problem in her car because I will put it on a 4 ohm 12" JLwo 125w rms that I have. Amp puts out 100W @ 4omhs. And don't worry about thread-jacking... I'm learning lots!
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  #22  
Old 11-02-2011, 12:46 AM
mtnbkr123 mtnbkr123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alaskangiles View Post
So I'm missing the fuze box? Then "the big three" will be complete? What is the 1/0 cable I put strait from the alternator to the battery doing then?

Sorry to steal your thread man, but it sounds like we both might find a solution.
The Big 3 is: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. I'm not sure what you've done. It sounds like you've done 1) but I'm not sure about 2) and 3).

The 120 amp fuse has nothing to do with that. I only raised it as an indicator of how much power the M12 draws.

I could be wrong but I am quite sure that lots of people are running much more power than 1200 watts without even having done the Big 3, with no problem. I hope to be able to soon speak from experience - 2400 watts as soon as I can get some time to get it done. I did work on my amp rack tonight though, so that's a start.
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  #23  
Old 11-02-2011, 03:32 AM
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DING DING DING DING DING!!!!!! Engine to frame, never even thought of that. Let's hope it's that simple. I'll report back in a few hours. THANKS!!!!
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  #24  
Old 11-02-2011, 11:47 PM
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Alright I don't want to jack the thread, I hope it gets solved, but I have an 06 cummins with a Kicker 650.1 pushing two CVR 10's, my lights don't dim when they hit or anything, but almost always when I start it, it's fine then battery gauge starts falling, head lights, dash lights dim down, then gauge climbs to normal lights back up, then repeat, after a short drive like maybe a full minute it's over, doesn't happen again. just when I start? I have two batteries stock, I'm running off the drivers side one, any ideas?
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2011, 12:04 AM
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That sounds like a glow plug issue. Never got to mine today.
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Old 11-03-2011, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alaskangiles View Post
That sounds like a glow plug issue. Never got to mine today.
Are you referring to me? The cummins hasn't had glow plugs since I'd say 89?
I have no enigine starting/heating problems it's electrical, my subs stop, battery gauge drops, lights dim, then back up subs start
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:11 AM
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Yes, I was talking to you. Ok, grid heater issue or othwise known/called glow plugs. I have never owned a Cummins but I lived in one for three years in the Air Force. Everytime those "grid heaters" would cycle it would just about shut off the lights. At -40* it wasn't even worth driving. Then I used my buddies when he was out of town and it didn't do it so bad. Both 98.5' trucks. I took it in to the motor pool and it came back fixed.
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  #28  
Old 11-09-2011, 11:10 PM
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Alright, I'll check it out, and yeah glow plugs lol grid heater
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  #29  
Old 11-14-2011, 06:46 PM
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Caps are craaaap ... i run 2000 watts only have light dimming at high levels. I use an yellow top 0 gauge wire and have soldered grounds. A bad ground is likely your problem 200rms shouldnt dim your lights. I plan on the big 3 in the spring, and if that doesnt work a possible upgrade in the alternator to a high out put.
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  #30  
Old 11-16-2011, 04:24 PM
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Forget caps. If you wonder why it may dim, look at power wire to amp, and ground. Check voltage at the amp when it's hammering. See what the voltage is.

Underpowering never hurts speakers, distortion does, because most use the gain knob as a "power" knob. Too much gain, equals distortion, hence clipping, bad power, blown speaker.
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