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  #11  
Old 11-03-2011, 09:46 AM
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Get it fixed right. Dumping thicker oil in to stop the smoking will put additional stress on internal components. Going slightly thicker as a band-aid may work for awhile, but it's a bad long term idea.
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2011, 09:58 AM
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Personally if you are currently using 5w30 I would switch to 10w40 before going to 20w50 to see if the 10w40 helps. My s10 started burning a little oil at about 150,000 miles and I switched from 5 30 to 10 40 and it stopped it. If that doesn't help then go to the 20w50. Should eventually get it fixed though.
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  #13  
Old 11-03-2011, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattlePete View Post
Get it fixed right. Dumping thicker oil in to stop the smoking will put additional stress on internal components. Going slightly thicker as a band-aid may work for awhile, but it's a bad long term idea.
Really where you get that info! that is not true
Thicker oil is a d fashin easy way to hold out a engine from getting worst while still getting the proper lubrication to all the parts.
Engine stress comes from lack of oil , Hauling over max limits and just plan old abuse of not giving the engine it's proper tune ups .

Trust us thicker oil has been used to solve many of engine problems since the 40's. Like everyone said don't want to long to replace the seals.
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  #14  
Old 11-03-2011, 10:09 AM
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I agree there's no additional stress put on internal components from thicker oil. You can get a hair better mpg and a hair more hp with thinner oil but otherwise thicker oil is just as good, usually better as it gives better protection. Some engines call for it (not most cars due to trying to increase mpg). My buell calls for 20w50 (sportster based engine). I also use the 20w50 motor oil in the transmission.
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  #15  
Old 11-03-2011, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperiorStyles View Post
Really where you get that info! that is not true
Thicker oil is a d fashin easy way to hold out a engine from getting worst while still getting the proper lubrication to all the parts.
Engine stress comes from lack of oil , Hauling over max limits and just plan old abuse of not giving the engine it's proper tune ups .

Trust us thicker oil has been used to solve many of engine problems since the 40's. Like everyone said don't want to long to replace the seals.
Tearing apart and rebuilding hundreds of performance engines- measuring tolerances in bearings, oil pumps, etc. Yes, you may 'seal' a valve stem leak with a thicker viscosity oil; at the same time, you are putting additional stress on the oil pump trying to pump an equivelant volume of thicker oil thru the oil galleries.

Todays engines are not built like the engines or the 60s and 70s (or the 40s)- they have tighter tolerances, higher HP per cubic inch, and are less tolerant of contaminants and detonation. Treat the 4.7 like a 60s era chevy 350 and you have a failure waiting to happen.
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  #16  
Old 11-03-2011, 11:11 AM
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well seem like you know your books and web info. If you read we are suggesting a simple temporary fix not a permanent fix. All engine are built under the same base design and basic rules with slight improved design. Stress on the oil pump would be on aggressive driving and sludge from neglect of servicing besides that the 20w 50 would work great and a healthy pump . You don't have to be a mechanic to know how to temporary hold a problem. If the oil pump was under stress no oil company would suggest to add a thicker oil for slight oil pan , piston seals and valve seal and covers. I get you point but he already know the pro and cons. Every engine has the same temporary fix for the same common problems.



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  #17  
Old 11-03-2011, 11:16 AM
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A leaking valve seal can contribute to damage or failure in your engine. The most common leak is oil and it will be dark brown or yellow in color. If your oil level is low, you should check the valve cover and oil pan gaskets to see if there is a leaking seal. The valve seal leak can worsen over time, so it is important to stop it at the first sign of problems.


1. Add an oil stop-leak additive or Thicker Oil to your engine for a temporary fix. Add it in the oil filler tube, just as you would motor oil. An oil stop-leak additive is designed to give valve seals extended life by causing them to swell. The swelling of the seal may temporarily stop a leak.

2. Use a high mileage motor oil. These oils have seal conditioners in them to stop or reduce leaks. The oil is designed to keep the valve seals soft and pliable in an effort to reduce corrosion that is caused by aging.


3.Replace the leaking seal. Remove the cover over the seal. Scrape away any buildup that has occurred on the area where the new gasket will go. Put gasket sealer on both sides of the new gasket if it is made of cork. If it is made of rubber, you will not need to apply the sealer. Position the new gasket into place in the spot where the old one was. Put the cover back on the new gasket and tighten the bolts.










Last edited by SuperiorStyles; 11-03-2011 at 11:19 AM.
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  #18  
Old 11-03-2011, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperiorStyles View Post
well seem like you know your books and web info. If you read we are suggesting a simple temporary fix not a permanent fix. All engine are built under the same base design and basic rules with slight improved design. Stress on the oil pump would be on aggressive driving and sludge from neglect of servicing besides that the 20w 50 would work great and a healthy pump . You don't have to be a mechanic to know how to temporary hold a problem. If the oil pump was under stress no oil company would suggest to add a thicker oil for slight oil pan , piston seals and valve seal and covers. I get you point but he already know the pro and cons. Every engine has the same temporary fix for the same common problems.
Has nothing to do with being a keyboard warrior or web info specialist. I build engines, and think I'm pretty good at it. We can agree to disagree (which I do in this case)- I believe it fixing it right once, not applying bandaids to a problem. Bandaid repairs too often are forgotten, because they cure the problem temporarily.

A -50 weight oil is great for racing (extended high temps) or a temp fix to a seal problem (as in this case). With the correct repair being so easy to perform (in a driveway, with hand tools, a spring compressor and an air compressor with spark plug fitting), why put additional stress on a 120k motor that is otherwise showing (per the OP) no signs of problems?

What worked 40 years ago may yet work today, but that is akin to comparing a sundial to a Rolex. Both keep time, but which is more precise?
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  #19  
Old 11-03-2011, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
but that is akin to comparing a sundial to a Rolex. Both keep time, but which is more precise?
I think you mean accurate, not precise JK!
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  #20  
Old 11-03-2011, 12:08 PM
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I agree on fixing the problem the right way no doubt but a temp fix with the way things are sound pretty good and we don't know his experience level to suggest full out mechanic DIY job. So that's why we suggested not to add the brake fluid and we gave another temp Suggestion.
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