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  #21  
Old 11-03-2011, 01:06 PM
mark1963 mark1963 is offline
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ok thanks, maybe it's not a seal problem, i could just be to thin of an oil for the milage, i will give it a try,
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Originally Posted by SuperiorStyles View Post
wow 5w 30 on a 120,000 mile engine yeah Go with 20w 50 high mileage oil and a Mobil 1 oil filter and your problem so go away for a good while. any engine at 120,000 miles needs 10w 30 and above but since you have a valve seal leak then 20w 50 would just work well.
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  #22  
Old 11-03-2011, 01:26 PM
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ok thanks, maybe it's not a seal problem, i could just be to thin of an oil for the milage, i will give it a try,
I'd still suggest trying 10w40 before the 20w50; if you can get away with a thinner oil it'll be better for mpg and a performance.
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  #23  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:09 PM
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I'm not a big fan of dumping super thick oil into modern engines designed for 5w20 or 5w30 oils. If you're going to do that, the ONE oil I'd try is a 0w40 grade (Mobil 1 0w40 is excellent, Royal Purple makes a 0w40 also). You really only want a little added thickness at operating temperature, you do not want excessive thickness when the oil is cold. 20w50 is about the worst thing I could imagine, and a good way to keep the oil filter in bypass all the time sending un-filtered oil to the engine internals.

The right thing to do is fix the valve stem seals, but if that's out of the question either live with the oil consumption, try a 5w30 high mileage oil (Valvoline MaxLife is a good brand), or go thicker by using a 0w40 so you don't jack up the cold-start oil pressure through the roof.


And for the record: a sundial is more accurate than a Rolex (it always shows the right time, but its hard to tell what its saying), but a Rolex is more precise than a sundial (its easy to tell time down to the second, but it can be completely wrong down to the second, also). :-)

Last edited by 440Magnum; 11-03-2011 at 03:15 PM.
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  #24  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 440Magnum View Post
I'm not a big fan of dumping super thick oil into modern engines designed for 5w20 or 5w30 oils. If you're going to do that, the ONE oil I'd try is a 0w40 grade (Mobil 1 0w40 is excellent, Royal Purple makes a 0w40 also). You really only want a little added thickness at operating temperature, you do not want excessive thickness when the oil is cold. 20w50 is about the worst thing I could imagine, and a good way to keep the oil filter in bypass all the time sending un-filtered oil to the engine internals.

The right thing to do is fix the valve stem seals, but if that's out of the question either live with the oil consumption, try a 5w30 high mileage oil (Valvoline MaxLife is a good brand), or go thicker by using a 0w40 so you don't jack up the cold-start oil pressure through the roof.


And for the record: a sundial is more accurate than a Rolex (it always shows the right time, but its hard to tell what its saying), but a Rolex is more precise than a sundial (its easy to tell time down to the second, but it can be completely wrong down to the second, also). :-)
Have to agree- the sundial is more accurate (as it almost always works!) while the Rolex is more precise (and usually in the shop!)

Also agree on the oil choices- -50 anything is too thick.
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2011, 08:45 PM
mark1963 mark1963 is offline
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wow so much info, but in the end is to get it repaired, the best deal i found here in tampa fl. is $750.00, if someone knows of someone near tampa that can do this repair please let me know, i will pay for the repairs,!!

thanks
mark
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  #26  
Old 11-03-2011, 11:03 PM
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You are making the right choice by getting it fixed.

As for the discussion on oil weight, a factor that has been missed is temperature. Where I live, if you put 20-50 oil in your light duty gasoline engine, you WILL be in the service shop is very short order repairing the original problem and a whole lot more. Every year, every shop around has a few engines torn apart to fix the problems caused by too heavy an oil. This is most prevalent between time of year til April.

Since you are located in Tampa, Florida, you could use the heavy oil year round and unless you were using the gas pedal like an on/off switch, it would likely be fine for a very long time, but would never be a true and proper substitute for doing the repair.

I completely agree with stepping up your oil weight a bit, like 10-40. You have enough miles on the engine to have increased the clearances enough that at full viscosity (40W), the load on the oil pump would likely be very similar to that of 30W when it was new.

If the 10-40 oil did not help the situation at all, then likely the heavier oil wouldn't either.

But, it's all a mute point anyway if you are getting it fixed properly right away.
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  #27  
Old 11-04-2011, 12:16 AM
mark1963 mark1963 is offline
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Default i already added no smoke

oh well, i already added some stuff by BARDAHL CALLED NO SMOKE, since i just changed my oil & used 5w30 that it would not hurt by adding this no smoke because i beleve it will thicken my oil a little like if i used 10w40, when my next oil change is due in 3000 miles i will then have the repairs done, i think i will be ok with this oil additive untill my next oil change,,
Quote:
Originally Posted by brad12kx View Post
You are making the right choice by getting it fixed.

As for the discussion on oil weight, a factor that has been missed is temperature. Where I live, if you put 20-50 oil in your light duty gasoline engine, you WILL be in the service shop is very short order repairing the original problem and a whole lot more. Every year, every shop around has a few engines torn apart to fix the problems caused by too heavy an oil. This is most prevalent between time of year til April.

Since you are located in Tampa, Florida, you could use the heavy oil year round and unless you were using the gas pedal like an on/off switch, it would likely be fine for a very long time, but would never be a true and proper substitute for doing the repair.

I completely agree with stepping up your oil weight a bit, like 10-40. You have enough miles on the engine to have increased the clearances enough that at full viscosity (40W), the load on the oil pump would likely be very similar to that of 30W when it was new.

If the 10-40 oil did not help the situation at all, then likely the heavier oil wouldn't either.

But, it's all a mute point anyway if you are getting it fixed properly right away.
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2011, 07:58 AM
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snrusnak snrusnak is offline
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Quote:
oh well, i already added some stuff by BARDAHL CALLED NO SMOKE, since i just changed my oil & used 5w30 that it would not hurt by adding this no smoke because i beleve it will thicken my oil a little like if i used 10w40, when my next oil change is due in 3000 miles i will then have the repairs done, i think i will be ok with this oil additive untill my next oil change,,
Is that the stuff that is extremely thick, like pancake syrup? Sort of goldish color? I think this is the stuff I use in friends cars when they run their engine without oil and it's the only option to limp it along for a few months until they can get a new engine...I would HIGHLY recommend not putting this in an otherwise good engine. I'd change your oil with some cheap conventional oil, add a can of seafoam, run for a tank of fuel, then change again with a decent oil(this will flush that stuff out). Change the filter each time too, use a cheap filter like a fram for flushing, then a good filter for the final.

Adding that no smoke is like pouring 100 weight gear oil in your engine...it's extremely thick, could clog up oil passage ways, oil pump screen, etc... I only use it as an absolute last resort.
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2011, 01:19 PM
mark1963 mark1963 is offline
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well i guess i know what i will be doing today,,
Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
Is that the stuff that is extremely thick, like pancake syrup? Sort of goldish color? I think this is the stuff I use in friends cars when they run their engine without oil and it's the only option to limp it along for a few months until they can get a new engine...I would HIGHLY recommend not putting this in an otherwise good engine. I'd change your oil with some cheap conventional oil, add a can of seafoam, run for a tank of fuel, then change again with a decent oil(this will flush that stuff out). Change the filter each time too, use a cheap filter like a fram for flushing, then a good filter for the final.

Adding that no smoke is like pouring 100 weight gear oil in your engine...it's extremely thick, could clog up oil passage ways, oil pump screen, etc... I only use it as an absolute last resort.
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  #30  
Old 11-04-2011, 01:33 PM
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Sorry to give you bad news, should have checked before putting it in though. If it were me I'd make it a point to clean it out of the engine, it's much too thick to be in a good running engine.
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