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  #21  
Old 11-06-2011, 03:39 PM
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Let me ask this ! The fuel guage does'nt work right. When I was driving it home the night I bought it.I stopped and filled it up and as I was driving it was jumping from empty to full.So I'm guessing that it has a bad connection somewhere at the tank.Do all the wires in the harness that run to pump run the sending unit as well or are there seperate wires for each? I was thinking that if the sending unit has a bad connection maybe the fuel pump itself has a bad connection. Is this a possibility and maybe that's why It's running like crap like it's a misfire from not having a steady amount of fuel. Maybe the pump fires then turns off and on at some point.I don't know just thinking of possibilities.
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  #22  
Old 11-06-2011, 10:16 PM
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I'd find someone with a fuel pressure gauge and check that. If you can't, I'd check if the trucks share the same pump and if they do swap it and see if it fixes it. If it doesn't, it's likely electrical.
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  #23  
Old 11-07-2011, 01:25 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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I suppose it could be a ground in the fuel tank harness, but I don't know where it grounds... plastic tank, it sure isn't there...I think I reside in one of the saltiest places there is, in the winter, never had a ground go bad on a tank harness. I would think that the sending unit and the pump are grounded at the same point. but that would take some research to figure out.
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  #24  
Old 11-07-2011, 01:34 AM
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Yea I think i'm going to switch out tanks just too make it easier just unplug harness and switch. My other truck never had an issie with the fuel gauge not working and that pump is only like 8 months old. To tell you the truth I'm starting to think this thing has a blown head gasket.But not sure though being that the truck does'nt run hot.The day I bought it and drove it home, the temp gauge was right around 175-180.Plus the previous owner said that it has a new radiatior and thermostat which you can tell it does.But was thinking tonight why would it have a new radiator did the truck over heat and blow the head gasket not too long ago and he replaced the coolant and thermostat to cover it up just to sell it? I noticed that the oil was freshly changed as well did'nt think much of it the day I went to look at it and test drove it.Now I wonder if he changed the oil as well to get the water look out of it for when people came to look at it.I may sound crazy for maybe assuming this but I live in south florida and I bought the truck down near Miami where there's alot of shady people who would do things like this to cars to get rid of them.Like my neighbor said they probably got it running good enough just to have it drive away after the sell and once it was gone it was no longer there problem.This is why I think It started running like crap before I even got it to my house the day I bought it.I can't tell if it's the head gasket or not,the way this thing seems to be underpowered and misfiring leads me to belive that it is blown.Just don't know what the symptoms of a blown head gasket is,other than the oil turns milky when they go.Also my girlfriend today said she noticed a little bit of water dripping from tail pipe while I was letting it idle which also has me thinking that the gaske is bad? what do yall think does it sound like I may be on the right path?
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  #25  
Old 11-07-2011, 09:17 AM
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I don't think a blown head gasket would give the issues you are having. Pay attention to the oil, if it gets milky, and if the coolant level drops. That's an easy way to tell if it's leaking coolant. Water in the tailpipe is normal, it's a by product of the combustion process. Need to check spark and fuel.
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  #26  
Old 11-07-2011, 11:53 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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If you have a blown headgasket, and theres antifreeze in the cooling system, you should have a check eng light, with an oxy sensor code, antifreeze poisons o2 sensors. if you were running a variable fuel pressure, you would not have a CEL light, because fuel pressure is not monitored. Look down your throttle plates for oily residue (plates held open) to see if you have a blown plenum gasket AKA big vaccum leak)
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  #27  
Old 11-07-2011, 12:45 PM
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10-4 on that about the head gaskets don't look to me thats what my problem is then.coolant and oil chrcks out fine.one thing I didnt get to check was the cap when I changed the plugs and wires.im not a small guy and I was having a hatd time just popping the wires on to cap let alone trying to get to the screws out to get cap off. Kinda sucks being all the way in the back of motor.That just may be my issue just because I hav'nt checked it. Will the cap from a 5.2 work on 5.9? If so then ill just change them.id be so mad if that is what the problem was this whole time.any tips or tricks to making the cap easier to get to besides having to lay on top of motor to reach it.i also would like to remove the injectors and clean them out just so I know they're clean.can yall walk me thru the process on how to take them out to clean them.does it require.taking off fuel rail? I know that you have to unhook the plugs on them, just never took injectors out before.
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  #28  
Old 11-07-2011, 12:54 PM
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Also it does have a blown plenum gasket.but wouldnt think that it would cause ot to run like it is.my other truck has a blown plenum gasket and it ran fine the 2 years ive owned it.but maybe this other gasket in the new truck is more severly blown.im gonna order the new gasket and plate just so I know its fixed.and change the fuel pump then hopefully that will take care of the problem.how much.do them gaskets and plates usually run and where would be the best place to get them?
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  #29  
Old 11-07-2011, 02:46 PM
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Don't start pulling things apart with no signs of them being fault. You need to diagnose the problem before you take apart and clean/replace things. You'll end up spending way more money and time otherwise. I know you said you're on a budget and can't get a fuel pressure gauge. The first two things you need to do is check for spark at EVERY plug. You can do this for free by grounding the plug and firing it or get a cheap tester for a few bucks at harbor freight. If that checks out try the fuel pump thing. Other than that, don't waste time on anything else, then post back with those results and you can make the next step.
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  #30  
Old 11-08-2011, 05:01 PM
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Well looks like I found the issue.Looks like it was the distributor cap the whole time,I took it out and there was one point that somehow got turned 180 degrees and looked like it was firing off the side of it not against the front face like all the other points.Also all the other points looked pretty worn out.Good god was it a B*%ch to get to the screws ! I took out the cap from my other truck which was in way better shape and changed the wires one by one to the other cap and it seems like I crossed a wire or 2 because I fired it up and it barely stayed running and ran real rough.Tonight I'm going to get a new cap and rotor.Not sure how i'm going to change the rotor though being that you can barely see anything being where the thing is located.I had one hell of a time just getting the scres lined back up to tighten it down.How do yall go about it? Is it easier to sit inside next to motor? I tried from the front and leaned over motor and both passenger and drivers side and still couldnt get to the screws ! any better way of doing it?.I'm going to yank every wire out tomorrow and reroute everything right.I'm not sure if I put a wire on the wrong post or what or I got the wires crossed wrong going to the cap.If I just put a wire onto the wrong post and I fired it up would it have knocked itself out of time from doing so or is it alright and will run better once I get the wires right?
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