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Custom Dodge Ram Interior Modifications - Custom Audio / Video All custom mods on the interior of your Dodge Ram. Dodge Ram stereo mods, alarms, electronics, shift knobs, upholstery, etc.


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  #21  
Old 11-21-2011, 06:34 AM
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CollateralDamage CollateralDamage is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnbkr123 View Post
Hey - good crossing paths with you again. Thanks for the input.

I am new to the car audio scene. And the battery scene. And pretty much every other mod as well. LOL.

FWIW, I understand that Optima's quality went down when the company changed ownership a little while back. I read that Johnson Controls now owns them. Before that the Yellow Top was the battery of choice for audio applications. You used to be able to buy Optima batteries at Costco. I knew a guy who bought a Yellow Top 5 years ago for audio and had nothing but trouble with it.

As far as being able to mount it any which way, I understand that all AGM batteries are leak proof and can be mounted upside down if you prefer. I traded emails with XS Power on this. Unfortunately, Sears Canada sold its Diehard battery line some time ago. Now you can get them at Kal Tire and perhaps other places as well. I understand they are manufactured by Enersys and are a rebranded Odyssey battery.

Our friends to the south have it easy - get a Sears Diehard Platinum for $225ish and be done with it (that said, I don't know what a 94R Plat goes for).

Ack sorry for the bad info, seems I'm a little out of date hope you found something that worked though!
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  #22  
Old 11-21-2011, 02:20 PM
Frank Drebin Frank Drebin is offline
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That rack fits like a glove, to think that you were going to pay someone to do your install for you.

Looking real good my friend.
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  #23  
Old 11-22-2011, 03:25 AM
mtnbkr123 mtnbkr123 is offline
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Amp board is done except for the power in and ground out.
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File Type: jpg ampboardwired3.jpg (119.5 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg ampboardwired4.jpg (121.7 KB, 67 views)
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  #24  
Old 12-07-2011, 08:57 PM
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Very nice work champ! You're putting some TLC into the install for sure. keep it coming.
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  #25  
Old 12-08-2011, 02:50 PM
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That amp board looks great. Very neat and professional. A quick question, how much room (depth) is there behind the wall and seat back?
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  #26  
Old 12-08-2011, 10:50 PM
mtnbkr123 mtnbkr123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBRam View Post
That amp board looks great. Very neat and professional. A quick question, how much room (depth) is there behind the wall and seat back?
Thanks brother. I appreciate it. I have seen hell and it is shaped like an amp board. Haha.

I will be finishing my install (hopefully) Saturday (except for my speakers which likely won't be here for another 7 to 10 days - don't ask). Anyway, when I get my stuff in this weekend, I will answer your questions and I'll post a whack of measurements to hopefully save some others a bit of time. Damn, it has been a learning experience.

On a positive note, I buried all my cables under the rug last night. I didn't bother trying to work around the front seat. I ripped that biatch out of there. For 3 hours, all I had was a driver's seat. Hahahaha! I've been without a rear seat for a month and a half. Wow. Good thing I bought that breaker bar becasue the same crazee effer who bathed by rear seat bolts in loctite did the same with the front seat. That breaker bar paid for itself in the brief time I was armed with it last night.

I have my MS-8 remote wire and the bass knob coming out of the side of the console on the deiver's side. I'm going to velcro the bass knob to the side and will keep the MS-8 remote in the console. I'll pull it out, plug it in and let it sit with the base velcroed in the rubber compartment at the front of the console directly under the dash whenever I want to screw with it. When I'm not using it, I'll unplug it, throw it in the console, and put the free end of the wire in the map compartment on the side of the console. Not explained so well, but I think it'll work awesome.

I'm getting closer and I'm starting to get excited.

This weekend I will do the Big 3, install the power wire through the firewall and finally put my rear seat, the Fox Box and subs and the amp board back in (it better fit - OMG it better fit). And that's it until the speakers arrive.

Damn that amp board better fit.

One thing I can say is that the install is 100% stealth at this point. It has turned out 1000x nicer than I thought. So that's good. If that amp board fits (i.e. I can get the rear seat, Fox Box and amp board in without any more complicatons), it will look decent. It looks like a custom fit. I got my GF to help me (3x) with the felt on the board. What a sport - she still has glue on her fingernails. Hahaha! 3 Saturday evenings spent working on my amp board. Holy shit.

Anyway, please say a prayer for me, that the current version of that amp board fits. If it doesn't, I am going to go into full on meltdown mode.

Like I said - I have seen hell and it looks like an amp board. Hahahaha!
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  #27  
Old 12-08-2011, 10:59 PM
mtnbkr123 mtnbkr123 is offline
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Me from Frank Drebin's build thread:

Hey man - I hear ya. I spent 12 hours today re-doing my third amp board. I may have some insurmountable problems with my current design. The Fox Box with its 5/8" risers is wreaking serious havoc. Holy shit.

If and when I do get it right, I am going to post an extremely detailed set of measurements so that the next person with a Fox Box doesn't have to go through the same shit show I went through.

If I can't get past the problems I'm having, I'll have to start over from scratch with a complete redesign. What is killing me at the moment is my wiring and inline fuses at the top of the board. I need to raise my amps up higher and there is no more space left. If I re-do it again, I will get some new distribution blocks with built in fuses and mount my amps as high as I can get them to clear the metal seat frame.

It is going to be very close. I did some more cuts and re-felting tonight. I will try another fitting tomorrow.

Damn. That amp board has totally owned me. I am ready to burn it.

rlandon from Frank Drebin's build thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rlandon View Post
Ah, the fun of amp walls! How tall are your amps? is it taller than the MS-8? More than 3"? My blocks have the fuses, the only way to go. Is the sub box messing with the install of the wall?
My response to rlandon:

It's all those things and more conspiring against me ever finishing this project.


The Fox Box threw a gigantic wrench into things. The spacers lifted the frame up 5/8". Among other things, there was no hole for the "L" part of the seat frame. On yours and Franks's it doesn't matter because the bottom of the "L" lays flat against the floor. You can slide them under the amp board with the upright part of the "L" sliding through the slots. The bottom of my "L" is elevated 5/8". I ended up cutting a huge hole right there in the board. I will use the bolts for that God forsaken seat belt retractor for the braces for the amp board.


Also, my amps were too low and hit the top of the box. I had to raise them up 2 or 3 inches.


Yeah - if I did it over, definitely distro blocks with built in fuses, and not separate in-line fuses. Just not enough real estate. I tried to keep everything related to the wiring with KnuKonceptz. Not sure why. Just did. None of the fused distro blocks worked - I needed 1 in and 4 out. Those are tough to find unfused, let alone fused.

Anyway, if it all fits, it'll be pretty sweet. I am mildly optimistic. I'll find out Saturday.
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  #28  
Old 12-08-2011, 11:25 PM
mtnbkr123 mtnbkr123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1miracle2 View Post
Very nice work champ! You're putting some TLC into the install for sure. keep it coming.
Thanks dude. It's been a loooooooong haul.
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  #29  
Old 12-08-2011, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnbkr123 View Post
My response to rlandon:

It's all those things and more conspiring against me ever finishing this project.

The Fox Box threw a gigantic wrench into things. The spacers lifted the frame up 5/8". Among other things, there was no hole for the "L" part of the seat frame. On yours and Franks's it doesn't matter because the bottom of the "L" lays flat against the floor. You can slide them under the amp board with the upright part of the "L" sliding through the slots. The bottom of my "L" is elevated 5/8". I ended up cutting a huge hole right there in the board. I will use the bolts for that God forsaken seat belt retractor for the braces for the amp board.

Also, my amps were too low and hit the top of the box. I had to raise them up 2 or 3 inches.

Yeah - if I did it over, definitely distro blocks with built in fuses, and not separate in-line fuses. Just not enough real estate. I tried to keep everything related to the wiring with KnuKonceptz. Not sure why. Just did. None of the fused distro blocks worked - I needed 1 in and 4 out. Those are tough to find unfused, let alone fused.

Anyway, if it all fits, it'll be pretty sweet. I am mildly optimistic. I'll find out Saturday.
I was curious how that FoxBox being raised would fit with the amp board. I didn't even think about the amps or other components hitting the sub box, good point there for future reference. For the blocks, you have a few choices depending on the fuse type you want. Thought I would send the link for the Stinger brand, which I used for mine.

Wishing all the best of luck for the weekend and hope you have it up and running very soon. PM me if needed. I've been working on work stuff at home and getting all new appliances from Santa (hint, hint) for the wife arranged, so I've been busy. They deliver on Saturday, so my day is shot also.
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  #30  
Old 12-09-2011, 02:44 AM
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Nice work so far!
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