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  #1  
Old 11-19-2011, 07:23 PM
safetyfast safetyfast is offline
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Default Spark plug change fail

Changing spark plugs. All four on the passenger side go easy. Back two on the driver side went easy. Front two will not come out. On the front one, I cant even get the socket to go down on over the plug. It's like the darn heat shield tube is too narrow to let the socket fit. Tried pulling the shield out with some pliers and it won't budge. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-19-2011, 10:28 PM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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Yeah. Been there, was not amused, whoever sent their kid to college to have them come up with that little nightmare, well, their parents got ripped off. period. I sharpened up a 12 point socket (so it would cut through the tin) and drove the socket down onto the spark plug, the reason for the 12 point is so that it self aligns to the hex on the plug, I was fortunate, my problem plug was the front one on the passenger side, easy to smuck with a hammer. Another idea would be to drive a socket onto the plug with an air chisel with a blunt tool in the chisel.
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:00 PM
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Had one break off at the head. Aargh! Fortunately the ceramic all came out in one piece - didn't go down in the head. Been alternating heat and pb blaster, and using a bolt remover, but it won't budge. This is getting old fast.
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:51 PM
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Remember...You'll have to heat the head and not what's left of the plug. If you get the plug hot it's just expanding in the hole.

Try using a 1/2 in 12 pt socket with an extension long enough to give you some room. Work it back and forth with a small piece of pipe or a breaker bar. Never ever ever go more than 1/8-1/4 turn until ur sure it's moving.

12 pt socket usually has a thinner wall. If you can grind down a spark plug socket then use the 1/2 set-up on the spark plug socket.
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:04 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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IN the head, ICK... My cure for that is to do as follows, leave the torch behind, ground the loose plug wire somewhere besides near where it would normally go, put your earplugs in and start the engine and allow it to warm up, this'd get the head all nice and warm. then proceed with the PB Blaster, or whatever, and then the attempt to remove, I prefer the EZ outs that are really short, I got my set from matco, they turn with a 1/2" socket, I kept breaking the long ones that are square. if it doesn't succumb to your efforts, run the cycle of soaking, running up to operating temp, soaking, and trying again. If all else fails, theres helicoils available for spark plug thread, more of a call for them on snowmobile (aluminum) heads, you would need to be very dilligent about drilling with the size stated on the helicoil kit, with a magnet on the bit, and tap, and following up with a shop vac and a piece of small vinyl tubing duct taped to the vaccum nozzle. I have had good luck with this procedure in the past, your dilligence in getting the junk out of the cylinder would dictate your level of success. I always do this with the piston down, leaves more leeway to suck the junk out of the cylinder. Always, always use antiseize on plugs, prevents thread galling, which I suspect you have, and thats why it's broke off... Good luck, I don't envy you
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:23 AM
Screamintrashcan Screamintrashcan is offline
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If it comes to helicoil'ing that hole, remember to break off the stub, when you're certain its in deep enough, and to suck out the little piece that you broke off. Also, a little extendable mechanics magnet, one of those that you can keep in your shirt pocket, may aid in removing chips. You can see what you got out of the cylinder if you put one of your squeezes nylon pantyhose sets inside the vac, ziptied to the inlet port. One last thing, if you have a 1/4 air impact, set it medium airflow, or even lower, adapt it up to fit the socket on the ez out, the shock value may help. the old plug should stay cooler than the head because the airflow past it with no restriction, thats why I prefer to run it vs heat with a torch.
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:13 AM
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Thanks for the ideas guys. I'll give that a try. I always use never seize on my plugs, but I suspect these are from the factory. Only had the truck for a short time.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:16 AM
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Default Update - new question

Well, I started the truck up last night and ran it to operating temp. Of course, with a broken plug and a missing plug, it sounds horrible with exhaust coming out the plug hole. Sprayed some more PB Blaster and let it sit a half hour. Still won't budge. I'm thinking of biting the bullet and taking it to a mechanic I've used a couple of times when I've been over my head or needed special tools. Question is, is it okay to drive to his house, approxiately 10 miles away on only 6 cylinders?
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:32 AM
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10 miles? If you unplug your fuel injectors on those cylinders so you dont wash them out you should be fine, otherwise the gasoline is washing all of the oil out of the cylinders and your piston/rings are scratching the ever loving crap out of your cylinder walls.

If you unplug the injectors (if you even can on a second gen) you should be fine.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:47 AM
safetyfast safetyfast is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyofOne View Post
10 miles? If you unplug your fuel injectors on those cylinders so you dont wash them out you should be fine, otherwise the gasoline is washing all of the oil out of the cylinders and your piston/rings are scratching the ever loving crap out of your cylinder walls.

If you unplug the injectors (if you even can on a second gen) you should be fine.
Good point. Anyone know if it's possible to unplug those injectors on a 2d gen? I'm not optimistic since it looks to me like it's some type of mechanical fuel injection.
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