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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #131  
Old 02-06-2012, 07:34 PM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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Put 150 miles on it today and all is well. Had a slight glitch leaving the house this morning but a couple tweaks to the Cam position sensor and I was off running again. Man those things are sensitive to adjustment. Gotta do a little tweak to it again so it'll stop throwing codes.

Truck runs and idles smooth and quiet still with plenty of power.

I gotta say, I am really liking the idea of playing this weekend instead of wrenching. The surf is calling my name once again.
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  #132  
Old 02-09-2012, 09:53 AM
j6s0n j6s0n is offline
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OMG... I cant believe I read this whole entire thread from start to finish.

I'm far from being a mechanic so half the shit I didn't even understand.
But I couldn't stop reading cause I found the story line to be very interesting and well written.

Big props to IN2H2O, snrusnak, and RadioFlyer. Without people like you we wouldn't be so passionate of our vehicles.
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  #133  
Old 02-10-2012, 07:04 PM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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I don't know about passionate but obsessive may be a fitting word, lol.

Well the engine is still running smooth but now I have a hesitation that wasn't there before. Sometimes when I get on the throttle it falls on its face and shudders really bad. If I let off then it comes right back and runs well as long as I stay out of the throttle. It is throwing the code P1391 which says missing crank or cam position pulses.

I replaced the cam switch a couple nights ago with another BWD aftermarket one with no change so I finally bit the bullet and ran to a Dealer tonight and picked up a MOPAR crank and MAP sensor but they wouldn't come down on the price for the Cam switch so I ordered one online. I then swapped back in my old MOPAR TPS and Idle Air Control. I am now running on all MOPAR sensors and actuators again, (cept the cam switch).

The bad news is the hesitation is still there. The good news is, my whistle is gone completely. The aftermarket Idle air control was the culprit just as I suspected. The OEM actuator has an extra sealing lip around the rim that is not very clear in the pics I posted above but very effective.

Not sure what to do next so I am going to go thru my wiring harness tomorrow and look for any damaged wires or terminals. If that doesn't show anything, then it means I could have preloaded too much tension on the timing tensioners when I was in last weekend...and I really need to step up my learning curve.

I did take some time to stroll around the dealership tonight and drool over a couple trucks. It was a real tossup between a 2011 Cummins Dually and a 2011 Bighorn Hemi. Both very nice trucks but nothing like a $46,000 price tag to make a $150 worth of parts in your pocket seem like the right move.

I have got to be close to a resolution...

Last edited by IN2H2O; 02-11-2012 at 08:33 AM.
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  #134  
Old 02-10-2012, 10:29 PM
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ArmyofOne ArmyofOne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IN2H2O View Post
Mine may have done it before too but if it did, I never noticed it. It may be worse now that the engine is tight again and moving more air.

I can hear mine in the cab as I drive down the road. It's louder if I rev the engine like you describe but it's there enough to hear if I let off the gas to roll up to light or stop sign.
Quote:
Originally Posted by snrusnak View Post
hmm yeah I only noticed mine the one time when a buddy and I were working on it a few weekends ago, when I would rev it, as it returned to the idle rpm it would whine/whistle for a couple seconds.
Mine had a whistle that you could almost mistake for a turbo, i tracked it down to the little square elbow tube that comes from the fender to the air filter box, it wasnt seated properly, just a tiny gap, whistling like crazy.

I gave it a smack, it snapped back into place and all was well, till I put that breather filter on in place of the vent hose on the passenger side valve cover. Now it hisses at high revs

Quote:
Originally Posted by IN2H2O View Post
Put 150 miles on it today and all is well. Had a slight glitch leaving the house this morning but a couple tweaks to the Cam position sensor and I was off running again. Man those things are sensitive to adjustment. Gotta do a little tweak to it again so it'll stop throwing codes.

Truck runs and idles smooth and quiet still with plenty of power.

I gotta say, I am really liking the idea of playing this weekend instead of wrenching. The surf is calling my name once again.
The CPS is sensitive to microns of distance, so yes...its very touchy. As for your hesitation, what is the voltage at your TPS? any jumps or bumps in it as you press the accelerator or is it steady increase in the voltage all the way to the top?

I ask because often times the TPS gets bumped when re-installing things, and if you bump it hard enough...well...you see where I am going.

Its not likely the cuprit, but something to also check. Could cause the symptoms you are experiencing. Your CEL is likely from your CPS still being slightly out of adjustment...gotta get that perfect and it should go away. Its close enough to drive anywhere except WOT, so you are on to something there.
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Last edited by ArmyofOne; 02-10-2012 at 10:32 PM.
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  #135  
Old 02-11-2012, 10:48 PM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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The hesitation was at various rpms and throttle positions so I don't think it's the TPS, plus I swapped them already with absolutely no change to symptoms. It seems more load related than throttle position.

I had to pick up some other parts I had ordered from the dealer so I bit the bullet and picked up a CPS sensor so now absolutely every sensor is OEM. This time when I fired up the truck , it ran rougher than ever and would barely stay running. I took this as an indicator that my timing was too tight or i had skipped a tooth and tore the front end off the truck yet again to reduce the tension I placed on it my last time and check my timing. I definately set it to tight so it was probably a good thing I went in. I verified that my timing was all correct and was quite happy to see I was all in time still. I also checked the CPS clearance and the switch is almost touching the cam pulse sprocket.

Once I got it all back together, it still runs just as rough so i obviously have something wrong with my CPS circuit. We were heading out for an early Valentine dinner so I ran out of time and had to walk away till tomorrow. I will first swap one of the old sensors back in but ultimately, all I touched was the sensor to get my recent symptoms so now I suspect that I have isolated my problem and hope to find something wrong with the connector or wires to the CPS sensor. I have a couple Deutsh connector kits so rebuilding a bad connector should be a breeze.

I also picked up a couple jugs of Mobil 1 10W30 and will be switching over to full synthetic on my next oil change.

Last edited by IN2H2O; 02-11-2012 at 10:52 PM.
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  #136  
Old 02-12-2012, 08:27 PM
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Not sure if the OEM switch is bad or if it's highlighting an issue but I swapped the aftermarket CPS back in and the truck is running well enough to drive. The hesitation is still there although the window of driveability has opened right up and I have to boot it pretty good to get it to miss now. I let off the timing tesioners but the chains stayed tensioned so possibly it may take a bit for them to relax and hopefully it continues to improve as it does.

I got antifreeze into my oil when I pulled the front cover yesterday so i drained the oil and then did a flush to use up all my remaining regular oil on the shelf and then dumped in Mobil 1 10w30. I am finally running full synthetic after over 10 years of procrastination.
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  #137  
Old 02-18-2012, 04:30 PM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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I received a second OEM cam position sensor today and tried it with the exact same results. It will run but not well enough to drive.

Go Figure, I buy a setup that likes aftermarket more than OEM. It is 99% driveable the way it is so I guess that is what I will continue to do. I am guessing the ultimate solution is to install an OEM cam tone ring. I paid $190 for this aftermarket timing assembly where the OEM setup is closer to $600 so the savings were significant enough to risk it but ultimately aftermarket anything has been quite costly to this entire process and I have definately learned my lesson.

I am going to start collecting OEM timing parts as I come across deals and eventually change out the timing assembly once I have all the pieces in hand. In the meantime, I guess this thread is pretty much come to an end.

Thank you all for joining me on this little adventure, I could not have done it without you.
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  #138  
Old 02-18-2012, 07:03 PM
Nutsandboldts05 Nutsandboldts05 is offline
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Wow dude. I just read this whole thing. I really hope the timing parts are what fixes this for you.
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  #139  
Old 02-24-2012, 06:40 PM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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Contacted the vendor I purchased the Timing set from and they are sending me out a brand new timing set free of charge. No questions asked. Gotta love that!

Now I just need to decide if I want to install it or the used OEM timing set out of my spare engine...

Last edited by IN2H2O; 02-24-2012 at 08:16 PM.
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  #140  
Old 03-05-2012, 04:19 PM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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Well, got the new timing set installed yesterday and it is still doing the same thing. Throwing P1391 code and hesitating when on the throttle. The strange thing is, it changes. I drove to work this morning with minimal issue and then tonight it would barely run. I ended up pulling over and disconnecting the cam position switch entirely. The funny thing is, it runs smoother now and picked up a couple mpg. I am considering installing a relay triggered from the cab to disconnect the switch once the truck is started until I can get this sorted.

Pretty sure the problem is in the harness now so once more, I will dig into it.

I compared the old pickup wheel to the OEM one and there are subtle differences, the biggest being the shape of the trigger windows. I will try and limp this along till next weekend and change out the wheel as well.

Last edited by IN2H2O; 03-05-2012 at 07:44 PM.
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