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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #151  
Old 05-28-2012, 05:43 PM
Ce2700 Ce2700 is offline
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Wow I just read threw this entire thread. I would have gone postal by now lol.

Good job
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  #152  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:26 PM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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Thank You, I think I may actually have it this time, lol.

Both the last motors just felt like something was wrong, despite everyone telling me that they felt and sounded good. Both failed so I guess I wasn't wrong. When you spend as much time in a vehicle as I do, you tend to know when something just doesn't feel right.

This latest build feels smooth and runs quiet. I already have 1000miles on it and it hasn't skipped a beat. I just hauled my skis down to florida for the weekend and the temperature gauge didn't move the entire trip.

Once again I am going to sign off on this thread and this time I hope to stay away for at least another 100K miles.
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  #153  
Old 06-03-2012, 10:33 PM
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snrusnak snrusnak is offline
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Engine: 2008-20?? 287ci (4.7L) PowerTech V8 310hp 330lb/ft
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snrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud ofsnrusnak has much to be proud of
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Glad you got it running good. Hope not to hear from you again
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  #154  
Old 12-18-2012, 11:01 AM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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315,000 miles and going strong. It was making some wierd noises that had me a bit worried but I isolated them to the cheap aftermarket A/C pump I put in the year before. Power is good, mileage is above 17MPG and I should be on track for 400K miles this time next year.
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  #155  
Old 12-18-2012, 05:26 PM
Maddevill Maddevill is offline
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Red face Wow!

In2 H2O you are an inspiration! To not freak out and throw both motors in a dumpster is a testament to your patience and thoroughness. I am seriously impressed! If you owned a shop, I'd have you work on my truck.
Great write up.
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  #156  
Old 12-18-2012, 10:01 PM
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snrusnak snrusnak is offline
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That's great bud! Thanks for updating
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  #157  
Old 12-20-2012, 01:57 AM
AlohaRam AlohaRam is offline
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Default 10.5 hours for a swap?

Quote:
Originally Posted by IN2H2O View Post
Did my swap today. Started at 8am and ran out of light around 6:30pm.
First off, great thread! ... I can't believe I was captivated for 16 pages... normally I am good for 2 or 3, LOL... However, this thread is very informative in many ways!

I have an '02 Ram 1500/2WD/4.7L ... the exhaust manifold to head studs need replacing, and I am thinking it would be easier to pull the engine, rather than fight with the studs lying on my back.

Question for you IN2H2O: do you have more pics/details on your engine removal procedures? I was estimating at least 10 hours, just to pull it out...

... the cowl/intake clearance has me worried.

Any more info would be appreciated.
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  #158  
Old 12-21-2012, 03:21 PM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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It may be easier but I don't think it would be necessary for that particular task. You could spend a little over an hour removing the bumper, rad assembly and a couple accessories and have all the access you would need without going any deeper. Removing the plastic fender liners would net you a ton more access and straight on access if you did end up needing to drill out any of the studs.

Quick Q&A, my manifold has bolts, not studs and they came right out without a fight. Unless you had alot of rust or corrosion, yours could be just as easy.?.? Salt water can wreak havoc between alumium and steel so if you live right on the coast of Hawaii I'm guessing you have a corrosion issue?
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  #159  
Old 12-21-2012, 06:11 PM
AlohaRam AlohaRam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IN2H2O View Post
It may be easier but I don't think it would be necessary for that particular task. You could spend a little over an hour removing the bumper, rad assembly and a couple accessories and have all the access you would need without going any deeper. Removing the plastic fender liners would net you a ton more access and straight on access if you did end up needing to drill out any of the studs.

Quick Q&A, my manifold has bolts, not studs and they came right out without a fight. Unless you had alot of rust or corrosion, yours could be just as easy.?.? Salt water can wreak havoc between alumium and steel so if you live right on the coast of Hawaii I'm guessing you have a corrosion issue?
Thanks for your reply and suggestions.

I'm going to lift the cab & bed, and roll the chassis out so I can have unlimited access to all 16 exhaust manifold fasteners.

I thought the 2 on the ends were studs (see pic).

I've worked on cars/trucks in Hawaii for 35 years, and never seen this sort of corrosion. This Ram was either nose-dived down a salt-water boat-ramp, or came from a state where the roads are treated with salt. The corrosion is only under the hood and on the front half of the chassis. The back half is typical Hawaii.

Another reason why I am going to lift the cab, so I can scrape/paint the frame and suspension.

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  #160  
Old 12-22-2012, 04:23 PM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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Wow, that is ugly! While those two look like studs, the nut is formed as part of the bolt. They are different than the rest because that is where the heat shielding attaches. Interesting enough, yours seems to be missing just as mine were. I thought they were removed prior to me owning the vehicle but maybe it's an option and it never came with them?.?.?

I'd say you are right about the saltwater too. We have one dip in the road that leads to out favorite surf spot that is about a foot deep with salt water at high tide. We creep thru it but there's always that one guy who blows thru it and splashes salt water all over their vehicle. If the fan blows it around the engine bay, it would not get washed off like the rest of the vehicle would on a rainy day. Lots of tourists in rented or borrowed vehcles that have no concept of how corrosive salt is to a vehicle.

I like your idea about lifting the cab. It sounds like a lot of work but in reality it probably won't take much time at all. Similar idea to installing a body lift and we have done those in a slittle as 4 hours. I would give it a very thorough check out first and inspect all the hardware for similar corrosion. Maybe hit a junk yard and round up decent cab and bed bolts in case the others don't come out as easy. I'd count on a couple corroded electrical connections as well.

Good luck with your project, take lots of pics and start a thread. Feel free to ask any more questions.
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