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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #31  
Old 12-23-2011, 10:55 PM
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Put 343 miles on it today and she never skipped a beat. still has the rough idle but my buddy says I'm crazy and that's running great.

It is a bit nerve wracking getting used to new gauge settings as well. The oil pressure is much lower than I would like but it is very consistant. The water temp runs a bit hotter than the old engine and seems to vary a bit more too. Today was not a hot day and i saw the needle fluctuate up about 3 needle widths when running at 80MPH on I95. Normally it never moves once up to temp.
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  #32  
Old 12-24-2011, 12:14 PM
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^My dad's 2005 4.7L has a light stumble at idle also, had it since new and has about 30k miles on it. He takes great care of the truck/engine and all that. I know those engines have more NHV (or whatever it's called - noise, harmonics, vibrations) than most other engines...
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  #33  
Old 12-26-2011, 08:37 PM
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I still think that I have a valve not closing fully. Doing research now about running seafoam thru it tomorow on my drive to work. 1/2 pint in the oil, half pint in the fuel.

Even if I can get it to run smooth there are at least 3 oil leaks that I will not be okay with for very long. I was planning to switch over to full synthetic but suspect it would only make my leaks worse. I will be sending my old heads, crank and block out for machine work right after the new year and will be building up a fresh new 4.7 in the next month or so. I priced out everything today and the rebuild is actually pretty reasonable if I do all the assembly myself.
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  #34  
Old 12-27-2011, 09:37 PM
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Spend $350 to have it towed home tonight after work. A small tick this morning grew into a major bottom end knock. This motor is toast but at least I am not going to waste any more time figuring that out.

I was pushing forward with getting the old one rebuild anyways, so all this changes is the timeline slightly. Need to figure out how to get to-from work until the machine work is all done and returned to me but it looks like I can borrow a company truck for a couple weeks so even that is going to work out well.

What do you all think? Top end tick or bottom end knock?

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Last edited by IN2H2O; 12-27-2011 at 10:41 PM.
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  #35  
Old 12-27-2011, 11:26 PM
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Sounds like a rod knock but hard to tell.

You didn't get a warranty with the new engine?
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  #36  
Old 12-28-2011, 11:11 PM
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No warranty but he's willing to work with me to get it fixed up. Problem is, he is just far enough away that it will cost me as much to get it too him, as what he's offering to help with so it becomes a moot point. Not to mention that I have no vehicle capable of hauling the engine around right now. Found another used 4.7 local to me but it is a 32T. Waiting to hear how much he wants for the wiring harness and ecm but I doubt it's worth the bother of switching everything over and resolving all the mismatches in sensor connectors.

Picked up a rental car today. Dodge ram to a Hyundai Elantra. So not a proud day, lol.

Going to spend friday tearing the newer engine down to see how bad it is. I'm starting to think I dropped a valve or possibly just a seat and it's holding the valve open. The sound I'm hearing could be the piston hitting the valve... :dunno:
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  #37  
Old 12-28-2011, 11:49 PM
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That kind of contact would be catastrophic. It is most likely the piston skirt slapping the cylinder walls or something else on the bottom end.
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  #38  
Old 01-01-2012, 09:03 PM
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It turned out to be a main bearing. It chewed it up and spat out the entire thing and left some deep marks in the rod so the heads have to come off and the rod needs to be repaired or replaced. The motor was pretty clean inside and everything looks pretty good but no still no clues as to the low compression numbers. The heads have to come off now anyways so I will get a chance to inspect them further, just not now. I only have so much room in my garage so i have to get the other motor rebuilt and back together before I tear this one down and repair it. Should have it fixed up for under $500.

Old engine goes to the machine shop first thing tomorrow morning.
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  #39  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:03 PM
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Well, I was up till 11pm last night reassembling my engine. Got it installed this morning and it fired right up nice and smooth with plenty of oil pressure.

I let it idle for about 20 minutes. Around the 15 minute mark, one of the lifters started ticking but only for about 5-6 seconds, (long enough to raise the hair on the back of my neck). Around the 20 minute mark, the tick came back and stayed so i shut it down. I waited about 20 minutes for things to cool down/bleed down and fired it back up. The tick was still there. I let it run for a minute or two to verify oil pressure and trace down what side it was on before shutting it down again. Now I don't know what to do. Oil pressure is right where it should be. I checked the oil level and see it is low on the stick. I added 5 1/2 quarts so it should be right at the top.

Should I just start it up and let it idle some more? Should I pull the valve cover off and inspect? should I be wondering where the oil went to? Did i mess something up and oil is not flowing correctly?

2-Strokes are so much easier to mess with, lol.
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  #40  
Old 01-11-2012, 07:33 PM
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UPDATE:

Well, I went over everything and proved it was just a collapsed lifter. I finally worked up the courage to take it for a spin and it pressured up within 100 yards and is running smoother and quieter than ever.

Unlike the first engine I installed, this one starts up right away, runs smooth and drops back down to a smooth idle within seconds. As i pull up to a light or stop sign, it almost feels like it's no longer running. As I drive around my subdivision, I can actually feel and hear my brake pads rubbing on my rotors.

I am headed back to work tomorrow so there's a good 150 miles to see what she's gonna do. Should have 300+ miles on her by friday night.

The plan is to run her for 3500 miles and switch over to synthetic.
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