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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #41  
Old 01-11-2012, 09:23 PM
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Hope she is well mman!
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  #42  
Old 01-11-2012, 09:35 PM
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Glad your still keeping your truck long lasting looking forward to seeing the ned replacment
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  #43  
Old 01-12-2012, 11:00 AM
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Very cool glad it's working out for you. Keep in mind the 4.7L's oil capacity is just over 6 qts. So if you put in 5.5 qts I wouldn't be surprised if it's showing almost a qt low (some oil will go to the lifters after initial start, and other areas, etc...)
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  #44  
Old 01-12-2012, 07:16 PM
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What did you end up doing?

Stampede.
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  #45  
Old 01-13-2012, 05:36 AM
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I ended up just rebuilding my original motor. Even with 280k miles , there was zero ridge on the cylinders so all they did was tank it and rehone the cylinder. I had them measure and polish the crank and slapped in new main and rod bearings with new pistons and rings. They originally quoted me $580 to rebuild the heads but all they needed was a valve grind and the exhaust valve guides replaced.

I am going to tear down the other engine this weekend and see what is wrong with it. It needs new head gaskets and a new rod in one hole and whatever was causing low compression and misfire in cyl #6. Hoping just a failed head gasket but more likely it's a valve issue. I'm into the whole thing for $4100 including a $350 tow bill and a $450 car rental. I will recover even more once I sell this other engine.

The last engine I paid someone else to replace cost me $5800 so I am ahead of the game still, just more tired and stressed than I would have liked. All in all it was a good learning experience and I am still glad i did it the way I did. The next time I will simply rent a car and rebuild my own engine though.
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  #46  
Old 01-14-2012, 02:29 PM
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I have had some time to think about why the other engine failed a rod bearing and I think I may be on to something. When I fired up this new engine, I primed my fuel rail correctly and it fired right up. The other engine was a struggle to start and I killed my battery 3 times in doing so. I suspect that I purged most of the assembly grease from the bearings before oil actually got to them. Cyl 7 was the one that failed and 7 and 8 are the furthest from the oil pump and therefore the last to receive oil.

What do you think?
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  #47  
Old 01-14-2012, 03:30 PM
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^That's possible, however if the engine is turning (while trying to start) then oil is supposed to be flowing...
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  #48  
Old 01-14-2012, 07:44 PM
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Flowing yes, but how fast and how much? Combine that with my seafoam treatment and it may have just been too much. I got as far as getting it mounted on the engine stand today so it's closer to being torn down and inspected. I'm trying to get caught up on everything else before I really get into it again.

I charged my AC and messed around with my cooling system today. The truck wasn't overheating but it does heat up whenever I put my foor into it. Both motors acted the same way so I don't know if its the cheap Murray Thermostat, the new waterpump, or a couple lines swapped. Unfortunately I tossed the perfectly good Mopar stocker so I can't just swap it back in. I swore I stuck it on the shelf but have been unable to locate it. I also found that I had swapped, or think I have anyway, the two lines that feed the heater core. One is Tee'd to the reservoir andI had it going to to the bypass (Upper) outlet on the housing. I moved it to the bottom and will try that out. Hopefully that does the trick but if not, I will buy an OEM next and try that. Somethings just need to be OEM.
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  #49  
Old 01-16-2012, 07:03 PM
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Swapping the two lines to the heater core did the trick. My temp gauge hasn't moved since it got up to full temp. The heater line that tee's off to the reservoir needs to go on the lower fitting on the water pump housing.

The last problem I have left is a whistle when I let off the throttle. I know it's a vacuum leak but cannot track it down. I pulled my intake and double checked all seals. Here is the conclusion I am drawing. It's not a leak so much as it is air searching for a way in. When the throttle body closes, there is nowhere for air to get in so it is finding a way in. I suspect that the IAC is not functioning correctly and so the motor is hunting for air anywhere it can get it. In my case, it's the PCV valve circuit. With the engine at an idle, I can disconnect the tubing from the PCV valve and the truck stays running. If I put my thumb over the line, the truck dies instantly. Correct me if I'm wrong but shouldn't the IAC be open enough to supply the idle air?

I am really starting to regret buying all my Sensors at Advance Auto. I am about ready to drive to my dealer and purchase all OEM sensors, motors and thermostat and see where that gets me.
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  #50  
Old 01-16-2012, 09:21 PM
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Came across a brand new set of HO cams tonight...
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