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Custom Dodge Ram Performance Mods - Engine - 4.7 Liter V8 Discuss modifying your Dodge Ram with Performance Parts and Accessories!
Factory Spec: 4.7-liter V8 engine - 310 horsepower, 330 lb-ft of torque.


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  #81  
Old 01-30-2012, 09:03 PM
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LOL, I step away for a day or two and look what happens.

The oil leak seems to be resolved. I put 155 miles on it today and the bottom is still bone dry. I yanked out the motor 3 times now with the converter installed with no ill effects yet so hopefully i got lucky. I just had the tranny seal replaced so hopefully it bought me some forgiveness. The leak is definately engine oil and not tranny fluid though.

You guys have said alot since my last visit but I will try and fill in some gaps. Good info on adjusting and shimming the lifters. I have a proper electronic stethoscope so tracking the culprit down was quite simple. I have always known it was Cyl #2 but have been into all the lifters on the passenger side bank.

- I replaced all the lifters, the same position is clicking even with the new lifter.
- I soaked them in 5w30 overnight before install,
- I swapped no parts over from the other engine
- I plan to send superiorstyles an email as soon as i get a chance to compose all the deails.
- I never give up till I win/conquer/solve.

I was reading up on zero lash adjusters and came across quite a few threads about ditching them altogether and going with solid lash adjusters...please discuss.

I have until next weekend to figure out my next plan of attack.

Last edited by IN2H2O; 01-30-2012 at 09:10 PM.
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  #82  
Old 01-30-2012, 09:07 PM
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Solid lifters are great, but they need regular service. They will actually give a slight bump in performance as well, but again they become a maintenance item. Every so many thousand miles you will need to check/adjust them as necessary. I'm a fan of solid lifters as long as they are fairly accessible (half a day or so to adjust). This is the main reason just about every production automobile has hydraulic lifters, because it's less maintenance and they operate fairly well at lower rpm's (where most day to day cars are operated).

Since you had the clicking before and after the new lifter, it definitely sounds reasonable that it needs shimmed.
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  #83  
Old 01-30-2012, 09:58 PM
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Solid's out then. I put way too many miles on to be making adjustments too often.

The one clue that has me stumped the most is that the clicking went away for almost a week before returning. This tells me that something is changing. I still believe I have a restriction somewhere. Hopefully I can dissolve it with the ATF over this week otherwise, I will be going back in this weekend and doing the inspections noted above.

I sure appreciate all the input you guys have been giving. Personally I like the challenge process. Even if you guys don't like the friction, you wouldn't have posted up half that info without it.
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  #84  
Old 01-30-2012, 11:00 PM
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Lol, I've done everything but blow kisses your way and you still have an attitude. But you are correct in a sense...however, his mission was to change the geometry of the of the valve train. The shim changes the geometry at the same time retards bleed down at low rpms and while parked over night. This is also something that some builders do to prevent bleed down when using hydeaulic high lift cams with high pressure valve springs. You will find that comp cams among others sell hydraulic lifters with the plunger positioned at different heights specifically for this purpose. To explain what this guy did we will use a small block chevy valve train. I soak my lifters overnight to ensure they are pumped up and install them in my engine. I pull up #1 cylinder tdc on the compression stroke and adjust int and ex with my fingers being able to spin the pushrods with 0 lash (no feeler gauge). Then I follow suit with the rest through one complete 360 deg rotation. Rotor pointing to # 1 on the cap I crank it up. I then begin to adjust the valve lash preload by tightening the rocker a 1/2 turn past the point of the tapping stoping and back it off a 1/4 turn. I follow suit with the rest in same fashion never needing a feeler gauge. If I were to tighten the preload lash too tight or past the initial 1/2 turn the engine would try to kill...that's why you back off a 1/4 turn as the correct setting. Had it not be for this guy changing the geometry by adding the shim, his wngine would have killed or began to. He used mathmatical geometry to compinsate
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  #85  
Old 01-31-2012, 12:12 AM
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Remember...my def of preload is the distance the pushrod submerges into the lifter. However, valve lash preload is adjusted with the lifter pumped up. If it bleeds down then you get incorrect me asurement. As an example I will use both 340 and 383/440 bb with non adjustable rockers. With the lifters soked over night and installed in the engines you just torque down the rockershaft and you have the correct 0 lash and preload. You can turn the pushrods with your fingers at the same time have perfect 0 valve lash. Same goes for thesw engines using adjustable rockers because you can't adjust the valves while the engone is running on either of them. Point being, valve las preload in not how far the plunger collapses into the lifter. That distance of travel is to ensure there is enough room to bleed down when it is suppose to, like at high rpms to prevent floating the valves. You can cheat by using lifters that come with the plunger set with less travel to compete with solid lfters quick revs and extra hp. You can measure preload with these non adjustable rockers but you can't adjust it like you can a sb chevy which by the way is 0 lash after you set them. And you can spin the pushrods with your fingers proving 0 lash while blin folded. You can use plunger travel but it is not factory settings, it is uze for a cheat for what ever reason.
er
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  #86  
Old 01-31-2012, 12:25 AM
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Btw, you can use adjustable rockers with hydraulic cams all day long.
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  #87  
Old 01-31-2012, 01:34 AM
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You have two engines now correct? If you had the extra block stripped of all or some lifters, can you hook up a drill to pump a fluid other than expensive oil through the engine to compare the oil p ressure flow in the faulty lifter bores with the other lifter bores? Could it be something restrict ing the oil passages in the specific bores? Or maybe you can use air starting with 5 lbs working ur way up till the right amount...checking the pressures with your fingers. Or jhst use oil if you have a tub big enough to recycle the flow without a large amount of waist????? You may have go plug a few holes but what the heck...plug em!!!!!! Just thought of something...xidn't you say that you are using the same heads? Are these heads feeding the oil to the lifters in question?

Last edited by RadioFlyer; 01-31-2012 at 01:52 AM.
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  #88  
Old 01-31-2012, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
The one clue that has me stumped the most is that the clicking went away for almost a week before returning.
During the week that the clicking went away were you driving it more regularly? Maybe the lifter wasn't bleeding down that week when sitting. I hope you get it figured out, I'd like to see what it ends up being.
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  #89  
Old 01-31-2012, 09:55 AM
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IN2H2O IN2H2O is offline
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There was nothing special about the week when there was no noise. My commute is very steady and routine.

I have never observed any aeration of the oil on the dipstick or in the top end so I am not thinking its that and have pushed such possibilities aside for now.

I like your idea of pumping fluid thru the system. I am wondering of I can pull the plug on the rear of the head and flush anything out that way. I just worry about possibly driving debris elsewhere...This may seem like a silly question but can I turn my engine over with the adjusters and rocker arms removed? I did it by hand already. It am wondering about cranking the engine over with the starter to see if the oil pressure will purge anything. Just concerned about why happens inside the cylinder if neither intake or exhaust valve opens...

Everything on this engine is original except for the pistons, gaskets, bearings and now lash adjusters.
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  #90  
Old 01-31-2012, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
This may seem like a silly question but can I turn my engine over with the adjusters and rocker arms removed? I did it by hand already. It am wondering about cranking the engine over with the starter to see if the oil pressure will purge anything. Just concerned about why happens inside the cylinder if neither intake or exhaust valve opens...
I don't see why turning the engine over like that would be a problem, I would just pull the plugs to let the pistons have air to move freely.
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