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Old 11-30-2011, 04:38 PM
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Default Torque converter

Where and what kind of torque converter should I get for my 99 5.2 and will I have to change anything out to put the new one in?
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bigmikelrg View Post
Where and what kind of torque converter should I get for my 99 5.2 and will I have to change anything out to put the new one in?
Remove the old torque converter, their should be a 3 digit number written on the torque converter, this is the converter code you can get an aftermarket based on this code. That simple right their. Next thing you should do is replace the pump seal for the converter. It is just good practice to do such. And well that's it really.
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:52 PM
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when i re did the converter in my 98 with a 5.2 i went
with a buckshot or buckeye converter....i forget.....they are really nice converters

very happy with them....i went with a 2200 stall
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Old 12-30-2011, 02:20 AM
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Ok was there a little difference in ur new tq converter. And ramvan where do I type in the code a converter web sight?
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Old 12-30-2011, 02:50 AM
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Ok was there a little difference in ur new tq converter. And ramvan where do I type in the code a converter web sight?
You're better with a lower stall converter when used with the 5.2L engines, I did the math and with the power curves from the 5.2L a stall speed around 1690 is best. Typically you would choose a converter that is rated 700 RPM less then the RPM at which the engine delivers the most torque. Then from that you should subtract about 300 RPM due to the vehicles weight and wind resistance. After all the math you are looking around 1700-2100. Besides the stock stall speed is 1690.

Anyways the converter code is usually stamped on the side of the converter however from experience with rebuilding and what not the converter code is probably written with ink on the converter it's a 3 digit code. Mine was 878, that matched up to a low stall converter. You can just get the converter they sell at advanced auto those pro-kings, they are basically rebuilt chrysler converters. The stock converter will do fine when used in a pickup, mine made it 16 years and still have life in it. I just rebuilt my transmission and you MUST replace the converter when you do that and a converter only cost me 110 bucks, cheap insurance.
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Old 12-30-2011, 02:55 AM
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You're better with a lower stall converter when used with the 5.2L engines, I did the math and with the power curves from the 5.2L a stall speed around 1690 is best. Typically you would choose a converter that is rated 700 RPM less then the RPM at which the engine delivers the most torque. Then from that you should subtract about 300 RPM due to the vehicles weight and wind resistance. After all the math you are looking around 1700-2100. Besides the stock stall speed is 1690.

Anyways the converter code is usually stamped on the side of the converter however from experience with rebuilding and what not the converter code is probably written with ink on the converter it's a 3 digit code. Mine was 878, that matched up to a low stall converter. You can just get the converter they sell at advanced auto those pro-kings, they are basically rebuilt chrysler converters. The stock converter will do fine when used in a pickup, mine made it 16 years and still have life in it. I just rebuilt my transmission and you MUST replace the converter when you do that and a converter only cost me 110 bucks, cheap insurance.
Oh as for searching for a converter you can't usually simply just put the 3 digits in, you have to look up in catalogs that 3 digit code. If you go onto the advanced auto website and you look at the item decriptions it will says codes; xxx,xxx,xxx these would be the codes. Just match it up. It took me a while before I understood the coding and what the hect stall was but after a couple days of good reading I was able to say oh duh.
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Old 12-30-2011, 06:08 PM
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All right thanks man I will look in to it also one more thing ramvan I saw u posting a while ago on someone's post and I need the same advice but I can't find it .. So the guy was wanting to b fast on the street and he wanted more h.p but u saint it's all in the transmission and about torque wat do I need to do to my tranny to get the most power outta my motor besides ring and pinion and locker something about a Kevlar band? Where? And some other things I forgot
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:45 PM
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All right thanks man I will look in to it also one more thing ramvan I saw u posting a while ago on someone's post and I need the same advice but I can't find it .. So the guy was wanting to b fast on the street and he wanted more h.p but u saint it's all in the transmission and about torque wat do I need to do to my tranny to get the most power outta my motor besides ring and pinion and locker something about a Kevlar band? Where? And some other things I forgot
Yes I know exactly which post you're talking about. He wanted to swap his 5.2L for a 5.9L and mainly because of the ample number of bolt on's their are for that engine. Except I told him that their is plenty to work with on the 5.2L and their is! But I also told him that what is the sense of having an engine that can pump out lets say 450HP and 350 ft/Lbs torque if you're not going to have a transmission that is made for it. Since the design of the stock torque flights is poor their are plenty of modifications that can be made to the transmission that will not only ensure you are able to transmit every bit of hp and torque from the engine to the wheels but also you are able to floor it from a stand still without the risk of severe damage that can occur. One good example is the reverse drum outer race known as the overrunning clutch which is only used in 1st gear. This outer race can actually break free and spin inside the case thus you would destroy the case and TF cases aren't easy to find especially for the 46,47, and 48 series transmissions. Basically if you are going to do a burn out or floor it from a stand still you're going to want to start out in second gear, the only way to avoid this would be to change out the cam for a bolt on cam, SMR transmissions sells this kit. Another thing to attend to is the direct clutch inner lip seal, during the manufacture of the direct drum their was a machine error that effected numerous transmissions, the error caused a big problem slipping in reverse, slipping during the 2-3 shift, and sometimes no 2-3 shift. This was caused by a grove that is machined in the drum which the inner lip seal wraps around, the grove was machined to deep and the lip seal for fall into the grove and basically it wouldn't seal the direct clutch piston, their is a updated seal to correct this, when I rebuilt the transmission in my van last week it so happens my direct drum was affected by this. Another thing to be done is to replace the frictions and steels with alto brand red eagle frictions and koleene treated steels. They both have great heat resistance and slip less in high rpm situations. I personally felt a difference between the stock and the alto's. Many people who have switched to alto's have had their truck put on a dyno before and after and their is usually a 10 HP increase and 15 ft/lbs increase over the stock frictions and steels. Another thing that should be done is valve body mod's, with the right shift kit you can really get that truck moving in no time, playing with the TV to help with kickdown sure helps when you want to fly by someone. The biggest issue is cooling as the TF's are known to have bad cooling and can cause the engine to overheat when the transmission is under load. You could install a external cooler on the pressure line this ways you can cool the ATF before it enters the stock cooler so you don't heat up the engine. The best bands in my opinion are actually the stock replacement bands, borg warner flex band and a raybestos reverse band. I would stay away from carbon or kevlar bands though those bands would last forever you will ware out the drums pre-maturely, drums cost a hect of a lot more then bands. The kevlar and carbon bands are the type of friction material they would actually be impregnated into the friction material more then they being made out of solid kevlar or carbon. If you deal with high high hp and torque you are going to want to change the input shaft and retainer, under HIGH hp and torque situations you can crack the retainer or sometimes strip the splines on the stock input shaft, their is a billet made one however it is very expensive. The OD piston retainer can be left as it is, though their is talk about a lack of lube flow to the overrunning clutch because of the retainer it is false. Another thing to replace is the reverse planet, they ware out easy and quick this is were most of the metalic powder found on the magnet comes from. The stock reverse planet had an aluminum carrier also, as for the forward planet it to is an aluminum carrier, you can upgrade both of these to a steel carrier and have more pinion gears, this would increase the duty rating. You would want a higher duty rating if using for competition. The issue with the mopar magnum engine is that the acceleration at highway speeds is poor this is due to the engine inability to produce enough HP and torque at high RPM. The power curve for the magnum engines is pretty much bell shaped, which is typical of most engines however this engine produces most of it's hp and torque mid RPM around 2300-3200 RPM. Sadly you cannot adjust the timing in any way to correct this, the only way is to change the computer with one that you can program. Even if you adjust the distributor or the timing chain the computer will notice the change and adjust it self to be at it's programmed timing. You also cannot use a timing light on the magnum engines.

Mopar has some cylinder heads that can be used on the 5.2l they are aluminum performance heads that slightly increases the compression ratio by decreasing the combustion chamber size. You will probably need a mopar performance ecm for these heads which are expensive not to mention.

The magnum and torque flight marriage is a perfect marriage however when installed in a truck that weights 4000lbs it's really lagging. If not for the vehicle weight that engine and transmission would really fly.

Oh just a tip refrain from putting a turbo on the magnum engine, you can easily shatter the piston head then you would destroy the block, someone on the web tried to put a turbo on it and well they certainly destroyed the engine.
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Old 12-31-2011, 06:27 AM
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Ramvan, thx for all the help I came across 3000$ and pretty much going to spend 1000$ to start with what should I do first....steps would b nice and it doesn't have to b all tranny stuff it can be engine mods to. Also I'm saving for a stroker kit that's what the rest of the 3000$ is going towards stroking my 318 to a 390 this is what the kit says it will stoke it to wats ur input on that? O and what brand and middle throttle body should I b looking at...I know this is allot of questions but u rly seem to know what ur talking about and seem very reliable and trustworth plus u answer my needs and concerns thx ramvan and others as well.
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:45 PM
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Ramvan, you don't simply shatter pistons by adding a turbo. Rather, it is the amount of boost. Limited to around 9psi, it'll be fine. Granted, that's quite an expense for limited boost when 12-14 psi could easily be run on good pump gas. For that level of boost, forged pistons would be needed. Check out the '87 Dakota 360 twin turbo test mule. Blast from the past. Man if only they'd built that one!
http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/...prototype.html

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